Bense

Okay so while tuning the car today on the highway, jeff (ih8jdm)and I were doing 3rd gear pulls (3rd gear ends at 77mph mind you) and I revved my d16b5 to 7400, and now there's tapping noises.

We initially thought it to be valve lash. So I drove home, took a nap, and almost 2 hours later i pulled the valve cover off and adjusted the valve lash to 0.008
intake, and 0.010" exhaust. And it's still tapping. Tapping increases as rpms rise, but can't hear it in the higher rpms (i guess the engine noise overwhelms it?)

The motor still seems to be running fine, I have been driving it around today and it feels good, however the noise is driving me crazy and has me worried to death that i spun a bearing.

The timing was retarded to 2 degrees and it's the stock cam + stock valve train.

for those that don't know, the d16b5 is a 12.5:1 cr


this isn't my block, but it's another d16b5 block where you can see the pistons.





My question is, what are the symtops of "tapping" ? And no, it's not the injectors or alternator or anything crazy like that. And it's definitely not the transmission. Because Even if i hold the clutch in while in neutral, the noise is still there

EGRhatch

If it's not valve lash like you say, then I would suspect a rod bearing also with the noise increasing with the rpm. hope you get it figured out.

my d15"c5" d15b7/z6 head w/ p2p pistons lasted 3 days after I accidentally went from 3rd to 2nd instead of fourth

Rock Meathammer

Well Bense, It sounds to me like it is a slight rod knock. I'm not saying that a bearing is spun, but possible improper crush. I had a big problem with this on a cbr 954. I kept going up in bearing sizes and the noise gradually better, but never completely went away. Same basic symptoms though. I can't help you too much over the internet. I would have to hear it for myself. Sorry.

Bense

how could i get a rod knock by only revving to 7400????

Bense

Rock Meathammer

I hate to try and diag the problem because I may be wrong. I have to hear it.

Also, Was the motor preassembled, or was it just built?

Rock Meathammer

Flywheel possibly loose or slightly cracked? (you've got me thinking now)

kenh

If you have a rod knock, you will hear it when you feather the throttle just at the point of load/noload on the engine.
Drive down the road a 40 or 50 MPH in high gear. At the point where the engine isn't really driving or retarding the care is where you will hear a rod knock. As you load and unload the engine the knock will come and go. A rod knock will have a deeper sound than a tappet click.

Bense

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B20 EJ6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Flywheel possibly loose or slightly cracked? (you've got me thinking now)</TD></TR></TABLE>

The flywheel was torqued to the right specs and i used loctite blue on the bolts. So I doubt it.

The motor was preassembled. It came out of a wrecked civic gx. I had it in the car and drove for about 350 miles before it made this tapping noise, I was conservative those 350 miles and didn't take it to the high rpms because it wasn't tuned. About my 6th pull (winding 2-3-4 out) my 4th ends at 96mph btw) It started making the noise

Bense

bone thinks i killed the mains

HatchEh2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kenh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have a rod knock, you will hear it when you feather the throttle just at the point of load/noload on the engine.
Drive down the road a 40 or 50 MPH in high gear. At the point where the engine isn't really driving or retarding the care is where you will hear a rod knock. As you load and unload the engine the knock will come and go. A rod knock will have a deeper sound than a tappet click.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hes right, i threw a rod in a boost D15B7/Z6 mini me. and a bone stock D15B7 in my beater (burned up the oil) and thats exactly what it sounded like....

but i hate to say... it only sounded like that when it got serious/too late. before that... it was a slight tap. It might have been a neglected motor to begin with... lack of oil changes... causing the oil ports in the rod ends to clog up... leading to oil starvation in one of the bearings...and now with the added power, it only caused the bearing to spin sooner than it would have w/o giving the slightest warning..

also, if im correct, the stock rev limit ment for that bottom end was alot less then what you took it too.. which probably added to the bearing failing quicker....

i took my stock D15B7 to 7200 rather than 6800 and let me tell you.. it was scary, didnt sound too good.... man those where the young days when you pop different ecus into cars with the wrong engine just to 'see what'll happen'... those were the learning years...

but yea man, ... i hope its not that, and something stupid like a piece of plastic hitting one of your belts... or a wacked out timing belt tensioner... cuz i really wanna see numbers for this thing.. you came sooo far

props to you regardless

Bense

it's the same bottom end as a y8, but this has a high flow oil pump, stronger rods and higher compression. That was the stock rev limiter for a d16y8

NJcoupe

Should of invested in an electronic oil pressure gauge.

Most likely its the bearings.

Use an automotive stethoscope to determain where its coming from exactly. They are very handy

stock_honda_coupe

Were those specs for the valve lash for a hot or cold engine? If it was for cold then 2 hours might not have been enough. When you pull the valve cover the valves should be cool to the touch. If the specs are for hot then it should be no colder then 180 degrees.

Bense

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dxcoupe. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Should of invested in an electronic oil pressure gauge.

Most likely its the bearings.

Use an automotive stethoscope to determain where its coming from exactly. They are very handy </TD></TR></TABLE>

how could i lose pressure if i'm not low on oil?

Bense

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stock_honda_coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Were those specs for the valve lash for a hot or cold engine? If it was for cold then 2 hours might not have been enough. When you pull the valve cover the valves should be cool to the touch. If the specs are for hot then it should be no colder then 180 degrees. </TD></TR></TABLE>

that's the only thing that I can think of. I am going to check valve lash after wake up tommorow

NJcoupe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how could i lose pressure if i'm not low on oil?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oil pump failure; Bad/Broken/Glogged Oil pickup.

HatchEh2

also bad oil pan gasket... any seal thats not good could leak the pressure out and not the oil... leaving you clue less... thats EXACTLY how i blew that D15b7/z6.. went NA from turbo and left the oil return line on the oil pan... plugged it real good with a bolt and clamped it down.... still seeped out oil pan pressure but NO OIL and within 3hrs of driving... i hit vtec for the last time and heard the most heart aching sound ever... next day, parked the hatchi.. till this day its still of the road, ive been working on a sick z6 turbo set-up along with upgrading the interior to black along with p.windows, locks and mirrors. ...10 months tomorrow... 10 months of driving a $600 primered pos 4dr eg...IVE HAD IT..... the hatch should be ready in about 2-3weeks.. i hope all goes well.

sorry, i rant sometimes.

an2ny888

i agree with the other guy, try letting the engine cool overnite before checking the valve lash again

95 hatch

so did you check the valve lash this morning? did you drive the car, was it still tapping?? hope the valve lash was it! good luck

Bense

i just got off wor, and now it's time to sleep


i'm so ******* pissed right now.

when i am accelerating, I hear the noise, but when I am cruising with no acceleration, then it stops.

Sounds like a god damn block problem. ******* great. Just what I want to deal right now. I want just a stock d15b or something else god damnit

ZacCarter

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HatchEh2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> </TD></TR></TABLE>

Told you, you jynxed him...

Bense you can quit man or your not gonna learn a damn thing.

tatmark1

i adjusted my valves 3 times before i figured out the noise was an exhaust leak at the donut gasket. i didnt weld the flange on very straight so it sit all **** eyed

too much vtAK

yeah dude, don't give up yet man. finish this project out and you'll be thanking yourself later. if you quit now, you'll be kicking yourself in the *** later.

sohcvtec1995

maybe the head? i over reved a ls head and it started doing masive ticking. readjusted teh valve lash like 3 times. and still ticked. So when the gsr head came in i looked at the ls head and it looked like the springs had shifted over some how, and nailed the side of the head in a couple of spots, and actually chipped some sections. but everthing was nice and tight.