builthatch

tuned with apexi power fc. intake mani is skunk pro-series, 3" dc cold air, apexi JDM ITR gt manifold straight through to modified Apexi n1, AEM FPR (not pictured) and AIR CONDITIONING






Modified by builthatch at 9:48 PM 6/14/2007

schardbody

thats an awesome torque curve or line (not really a curve.)

builthatch

thanks man- that was important to me, to have a flat curve

it drives just like it shows; very linear!

VegasHB

No VIN on da motor.

hkboy87

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VegasHB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No VIN on da motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hey that looks like my old motor....

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VegasHB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No VIN on da motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Several points need to be made because of this comment...

1). Its not a motor. Motors are run on electricity.
2). You can't see where the tag would be on 'da' ENGINE to begin with, so whats your point?
3). Lack of tag on the tranny could be because he is using a JDM tranny perhaps?
4). Why do you care so much? You the cops?

k4ff1n3

JDM trans dosent have the vin tag holes if i remember correctly... im too lazy to go check mine...

swifty4u

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid96EK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Several points need to be made because of this comment...

1). Its not a motor. Motors are run on electricity.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you one of those ***** that corrects everyone that says "EG" instead of "Eh2"
***.

But back on topic, those are pretty good numbers for your mods. What made get out of the d series?

thehatchninja

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by swifty4u &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> What made get out of the d series?</TD></TR></TABLE>

because he wanted to go fast.

swifty4u

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thehatchninja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">because he wanted to go fast.</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha true that

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by swifty4u &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Are you one of those ***** that corrects everyone that says "EG" instead of "Eh2"
***.

But back on topic, those are pretty good numbers for your mods. What made get out of the d series?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you one of those "*****" thats likes to take offence from comments that were clearly not directed to you in order to make yourself feel better? Honestly, I don't know what an EH2 is if that helps your day out.

schardbody

who cares about a vin tag on the engine/motor or whatever else you wanna call it. and who cares if its stolen, as long as he didnt steal it or doesnt know it was stolen, which clearly isnt the case posting pictures of it and all.

builthatch

whoa you guys are fired up! haha

setup is from hmotors. it's got the HMO metal stamp on it and i certainly have the receipts for it, i'll probably be buried with them ha!

i quit with the d because i wanted something stock, plus i've been playing with the sohc's for a decade and am the last one in the world to try a swap. dohc is expensive but it's def got it's advantages!

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by builthatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whoa you guys are fired up! haha

setup is from hmotors. it's got the HMO metal stamp on it and i certainly have the receipts for it, i'll probably be buried with them ha!

i quit with the d because i wanted something stock, plus i've been playing with the sohc's for a decade and am the last one in the world to try a swap. dohc is expensive but it's def got it's advantages!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its honestly not too terribly expensive. Its a hell of a lot more enjoyable, thats for damn sure. Good to see you got the 1.8l. Nice numbers too. Go add some cams and retune now.

builthatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid96EK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Its honestly not too terribly expensive. Its a hell of a lot more enjoyable, thats for damn sure. Good to see you got the 1.8l. Nice numbers too. Go add some cams and retune now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha, well, that's debatable- it cost me 3700 shipped for the engine with lsd trans (incredibly clean example from hmotors) and then about 1k-1.2k for all of the support parts - crv compressor bracket, 99-00 si rear tee, 99-00 si d-side motor bracket, clutch, flywheel, water pump, timing belt, single plane intake mani, header, exhaust flange, spark plugs, spark plug wires, cap, rotor, intake manifold gasket

then tuning...

of course you can leave the stuff on the swap that came with it but that is not wise, not if you like doing things right...

this doesn't include the tons of sets of axles to figure out a vibration problem or labor for the swap, since i did it myself

all told i've probably spent what, 6k? that's alot of money where i come from esp for 175 whp, but i'm pleased with it's performance so that's all that matters ; )

i'm going to enjoy it for the time being and maybe next spring put in some CTR cams with sprockets and retune.

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by builthatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

haha, well, that's debatable- it cost me 3700 shipped for the engine with lsd trans (incredibly clean example from hmotors) and then about 1k-1.2k for all of the support parts - crv compressor bracket, 99-00 si rear tee, 99-00 si d-side motor bracket, clutch, flywheel, water pump, timing belt, single plane intake mani, header, exhaust flange, spark plugs, spark plug wires, cap, rotor, intake manifold gasket

then tuning...

of course you can leave the stuff on the swap that came with it but that is not wise, not if you like doing things right...

this doesn't include the tons of sets of axles to figure out a vibration problem or labor for the swap, since i did it myself

all told i've probably spent what, 6k? that's alot of money where i come from esp for 175 whp, but i'm pleased with it's performance so that's all that matters ; )

i'm going to enjoy it for the time being and maybe next spring put in some CTR cams with sprockets and retune.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you have spent 6 grand on getting a GSR engine in your car then something is wrong. Thats not really what I would call a "fair" comparison. You can do a K swap for damn near that much, you know? Remember though, all motor will always cost a pretty penny. All things considered, D is currently quite a bit cheaper then B. The power you get from the D vs B though makes up for the cost in my opinion.

JeffBro

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid96EK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> If you have spent 6 grand on getting a GSR engine in your car then something is wrong. Thats not really what I would call a "fair" comparison. You can do a K swap for damn near that much, you know? Remember though, all motor will always cost a pretty penny. All things considered, D is currently quite a bit cheaper then B. The power you get from the D vs B though makes up for the cost in my opinion.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your completely wrong buddy. Obviously you have never done an engine swap. you must be some kind of keyboard jocky. You have no idea what your talking about and stop trolling this guy. I did the exact same swap exact same mods to my car and it cost very close to the same for me as well. No one could do a K20 swap for ANYWHERE NEAR 6k. Maybe down the road when the motors become cheaper.

It cost over 5 grand ALONE just to pickup the swap and thats cheap. Then you need custom axles, custom wiring, custom mounts, custom shift linkage, possably a cluster if you want all your gauges to work, radiator setup has to be custom mounted, and you need fans. Then all the other little bs things that come up after that like hoses and belts and fluids intake and the list does on and on and on and on. YOU HAVE NO IDEA!!!

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JeffBro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Your completely wrong buddy. Obviously you have never done an engine swap. you must be some kind of keyboard jocky. You have no idea what your talking about and stop trolling this guy. I did the exact same swap exact same mods to my car and it cost very close to the same for me as well. No one could do a K20 swap for ANYWHERE NEAR 6k. Maybe down the road when the motors become cheaper.

It cost over 5 grand ALONE just to pickup the swap and thats cheap. Then you need custom axles, custom wiring, custom mounts, custom shift linkage, possably a cluster if you want all your gauges to work, radiator setup has to be custom mounted, and you need fans. Then all the other little bs things that come up after that like hoses and belts and fluids intake and the list does on and on and on and on. YOU HAVE NO IDEA!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Keyboard jockey? Lol. I happen to be an ASE certified mechanic who has worked with Hondas for over 11 years now. I have built over 15 engines and done countless swaps including the current GSR that is sitting in my EK. Have no idea? Good try kid, think again.

When I built my last GSR engine, I had FAR less then 6k into the setup and put down 185whp. I had the machine work done at Comptech (not cheap) and then assembled it myself. Including the $1,200 transmission (CTR), I had less then 5k in the engine. That was with new pistons, rings, bearings, oil pump, water pump, valves, springs, retainers, etc and the machine work. Remember, labor is on me, perhaps this is the difference between the price you paid and what I pay? Please though, if you don't know anything about someone, don't jump to conclusions and start insulting someones intelligence.

As for the K swap... well, thats going to depend on where you get your crap from. I just did a quick search on ebay and found a complete K series SI swap for $2,100 shipped. Doesn't seem like the 5 grand you mentioned by far. Have you even looked into these swaps? You could very easily accomplish a nice K swap for 6-7 grand. The potential of these swaps is far greater then the B series also. Check around before you tell me I "have no idea".. Seems like you were just after a quick vent more then anything. I'm not trying to "troll" this guy, just making some valid points and supporting his build.

builthatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid96EK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you have spent 6 grand on getting a GSR engine in your car then something is wrong. </TD></TR></TABLE>

no, nothing is wrong. i just didn't want to buy a junk gsr block and build it...and even if i did, there is a high probability it would have cost the same or more. i had a built engine for so many years and wanted a bone stock engine that the last person who was inside was a japanese engine technician in a clean room in japan....

if you really look at the parts you have to support the engine like i have, then you will see it's a pretty penny. this is partly why i stuck with d's for so long. i can make a d put out 160whp/120tq for a fraction of the cost of the b. yes, of course the d then has hit it's practical NA ceiling, but it's good enough for alot of people, and typically get's a bit more props than a b swap.

anyway, like i said, i wanted a stock engine but didn't want to give up power, so i swapped-

add up the parts i listed...

engine and trans + ship (HMO) 3720
crv compressor bracket 65
99-00 si d-side engine bracket 33
99-00 si rear t bracket 44
timing belt 48
water pump 90
Exedy chromoly FW 250
Exedy clutch 200
Skunk intake mani 200
Apexi GT manifold 330
NGK wires 50
MSD cap and rotor 38
SMSP flare, donut and flange 25
NGK spark plugs 8
Intake mani gasket 8
Honda coolant 8
AEM FPR 120
oil and filter 10
Apexi Power FC and tuning 600
new (not reman) axles 215
$6062 total

and that's w/o the typical 500-800 labor rate since i did it myself....

the thing is i didn't cut any corners anywhere and have an engine that was assembled by honda in japan and bone stock. i had all my bases covered before hand and didn't leave any wear items on the engine, which IMO is the only way to go esp. since it's so easy to work on the thing when it's out of the car.



Modified by builthatch at 11:36 PM 6/15/2007

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by builthatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

add up the parts i listed...

engine and trans + ship (HMO) 3720
crv compressor bracket 65
99-00 si d-side engine bracket 33
99-00 si rear t bracket 44
timing belt 48
water pump 90
Exedy chromoly FW 250
Exedy clutch 200
Skunk intake mani 200
Apexi GT manifold 330
NGK wires 50
MSD cap and rotor 38
SMSP flare, donut and flange 25
NGK spark plugs 8
Intake mani gasket 8
Honda coolant 8
AEM FPR 120
oil and filter 10
Apexi Power FC and tuning 600
new (not reman) axles 215
$6062 total

and that's w/o the typical 500-800 labor rate since i did it myself....

the thing is i didn't cut any corners anywhere and have an engine that was assembled by honda in japan and bone stock. i had all my bases covered before hand and didn't leave any wear items on the engine, which IMO is the only way to go esp. since it's so easy to work on the thing when it's out of the car.

Modified by builthatch at 11:36 PM 6/15/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I see your point. You have a pretty respectable list of things there though that I wouldn't use in comparison between the D vs B debate. Aftermarket parts aren't needed to complete the swap. With that said, its more expensive, yes, but what you get in the end is by far worth the additional cost IMO. You have a nice foundation to work with and I believe you will be more then happy with it in the long run. Good luck with your future plans!

JeffBro

Alright if you really are ASE certified then I give probs because I was gonna go that route and ended up backing out out because I found out in the long run I didnt want to be a mechanic. Descovered this after working in the business 3 years after being told by many older mechanics not to get in too far for many reasons. anyways thats that. Doesnt limit my knowledge at all tho. I worked with a honda races guys, local boys who go to the track, and my own projects which include 2 b16 swaps in EGs and a jdm gsr in my own EK. Whatever we can have **** fights all day long but your basis is flawed about the k20.

Yeah one could buy a cheap *** k20a1 and go to all the custom work to swap that in but you still only have 160hp and that would cost more than doing any b serers swap still. but you said that there was a cheap k20 swap on ebay. well lets take a look. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW
Hmm looks like either a scam(which is always a possablility when buying on ebay) and in addition there are only 5 bids. That swap will easily go for over 4 grand once the auction closes. And you dont even know if its legit. plus thats a k20a2 which isnt as good as the jdm version which is what people usually want. You are also not considering the fact that these swaps are a **** load of work to do in comparison to a b series. You need cutting tools, welding tools, wiring information and knowhow. You didnt really think any of this k series stuff out at all. How about this. If you wanna build a case against me make a no bullshit list of parts no excluding all of the extra **** that you havent considered. Things like heater hoses, radiator hoses, little lines here and there fluids and then the 100 trips to the auto parts store for bolts, wiring bs, just all kinds of ****.

In regaurd to the b swap the poster did I decided on the same route as him bcause I didnt want any shitty used engine bullshit. hmotors is the real deal and steve offers an amazing package. Every part he gives you he will stand behind and you dont have to worry about the tranny blowing up or a cylinder being down or anything like that. I have no idea where you got your gsr from but we didnt take any risks and we got what we paid for. I can't stand people who say they got a better deal or that we spend too much cause there always not telling you something. They arnt telling you about how they cut corners or how they got a sketch *** setup to begin with and built the whole motor and didnt include any of the costs of that into what they are telling you. Or maybe there **** is about to blow and there getting what they paid for. whatever peace out.

Hybrid96EK

The swap I found was from an Si, it was $1,800 BUY IT NOW from a salvage yard in Nevada. Shipping was $200. I could drive to Nevada and pick it up for $1,800 was my point. 160hp? Sure. Do a K-pro and solve that issue. Swap the head. My point is its a foundation, its a K. Why didn't I swap K? Simple. California emissions laws make it VERY hard to ref the K. You need the RSX/Civic Si gas tank in the car to pass. Oh yeah, I didn't research anything though, I forgot.

H motors is nice. I've done three swaps from there. Two DA's and one in a DC. I was pleased with the products I got both times. Good quality.

I bought my motor from a local kid. It was supposedly running, but had one of the pistons installed backwards. Local shops around here tend to do a lot of janky work. Needless to say it was disassembled. I replaced the rods with ITR rods, ITR pistons, new bearings, tanked, painted, new water pump, new oil pump, timing belt, blah blah. Added omni falt faced valves, omni springs and retainers. Picked up an ITR throttle body cheap and that was the end for now. The goal was to wind up with a 0 mile running swap that I can play with down the road. For now, its quick enough. Nothing like my last B18C yet, but with time it will get me to my goals.