dx/vtec
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dx/vtec
sup, i was wondering if anyone knew if it is possible for me to put a vtec head from an ex civic onto my dx motor just like the ls/vtec. if so, can you tell me how this can be done? do i have to rebuild the bottom end like the ls has to be rebuilt when doing a ls/vtec swap? i would really apprecite it if yall can help me out.
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Re: dx/vtec (2fastcivic)
Oh it's possible, you just don't achieve as high of RPMS as you would with a VTEC engine and your engine is at a greater risk of seizing.
#5
Re: dx/vtec (2fastcivic)
just last weekend i put a y8 (96+ ex) head on my y7 (96+ dx/lx) block.. depending on how far you go with it ie (intake manifold/ecu) you have to do certain things... in my case i went with a 97 head, 00 intake manifold and a 97 ecu on a 98 block.. other than a few quirks between the 97 head and 00 im it was basicly just take the old head/im off put the new one on, run 4 additional wires to the ecu and boom it was done..
http://www.tiora.net/~chris/index.php?path=mini-me pics here.. lil laggy right now isp seems to be doing some work or something
however this was a swap inside the same generation.. i know people do it between generations and im not sure what all is involved with that.. the process is the same but the details are a bit different.
-Chris
http://www.tiora.net/~chris/index.php?path=mini-me pics here.. lil laggy right now isp seems to be doing some work or something
however this was a swap inside the same generation.. i know people do it between generations and im not sure what all is involved with that.. the process is the same but the details are a bit different.
-Chris
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Re: dx/vtec (s14TurboCivic)
thanks for the info. but can you explain more to me on how you did the swap and the ecu? what are the "few quirks" you are talkin about? did you feel a difference? and what about the bottom end. will it be able to handle the greater power from head? im mostly worried about the engine going out on me like spoon guy was talkin about. thanks for the help.
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Re: dx/vtec (redteg1)
Actually there's no risk in over revving. Both blocks use the same pistons, but the dx uses a shorter rod. The valve train is the same too, unlike the B-series engines. SOHC valve train can rev safely to 8400rpm max. The only you'd need would be an ECU to increase the rev limiter, remove the speed limiter, and remove fuel cut.
#9
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Re: dx/vtec (2fastcivic)
sup, i was wondering if anyone knew if it is possible for me to put a vtec head from an ex civic onto my dx motor just like the ls/vtec. if so, can you tell me how this can be done? do i have to rebuild the bottom end like the ls has to be rebuilt when doing a ls/vtec swap? i would really apprecite it if yall can help me out.
#10
Re: dx/vtec (2fastcivic)
what year block are you going to be using and what year head? if its gonna be a y8 on a y7 here is pretty much what you need to do..
1) get y8 head/intake manifold with all sensors
2) get y8 ecu
3) get a knock sensor for a y8 (y7s dont have them but ya will get a check engine if you use the y8 ecu and dont have it)
3) get a new headgasket and might want to get a new timing belt kit since that will be all exposed anyway and might be a good time to change your timing belt..
its best to note that if you are doing this with a y7/y8 and your a 96-98 car then try to get a 96-98 head/im/ecu since the 99/00 is slightly different (obd2.1 vs obd2) esp w/ the ecu..
make sure you have a manual of somesort, helms or haynes or chilton or something.. you will need it..
1) follow all manual instructions for removing the head/intake manifold
2) install knock sensor into block, you will need to run a wire for this since the y7 harness doesnt have this wire
3) put on new head gasket
4) put on new head/intake manifold
5) follow all instuctions for installing the head.. sensor hookup etc...
6)the only sensor that will not directly hookup from the y7 harness is the Idle Air Controller (IAC) the y8 has a 2 prong plug while the y7 has a 3 prong..
use the black/yellow from the y7 harness and then run another wire for the other pin in the y8 IAC
7)run two more wires for the VTEC solinoid and + on the VTEC pressure switch, just run the - on the VTEC pressure switch to a good ground in the engine bay
8)getting the new lines to the ecu is the hardest part.. since i couldnt find any replacement pins and just install them into the harness i just tapped it in directly to the ecu (to the board directly) but some wont want to do this.. definately reference your manual to see what pings goto where.. also get a connector diagram off hybrid.honda-perf.org
9)double check all connections!
10) start and hope it work
i think thats pretty much it there might be a few minor details left out but its a pretty straight forward process
bottom end can be left alone the y7 and y8 are almost the same anyway.. ive had 0 problems with this setup so far and yes you definately can feel the difference, the vtec engagement in the y8s is smooth you wont really feel it like ya do in z6's but ya can still hear the engagement
the few quirks i was talking about is when i used a 00 im with a 97 head.. they changed the design im assuming in 99 of the head/im mounting so the 00 im needed to have some breathers above the fuel injectors plugged (i had an intake manifold leak at first and ended up taking the im on and off 4 times which believe me isnt very fun!)
as far as everyone saying for cost do an engine swap to a DOHC.. thats a joke this is super cheap i spent around $800 and that includes a brand new knock sensor ($147!!) from honda, tbelt kit, 2 ecus (first one i got was auto.. got screwed ) and other misc stuff including 2 92-95 head gaskets (cause i wanted a cheap thick headgasket to lower compression for my turbo and my greddy 2mm is way backordered)
a GSR swap if you can find them in your area will run you $3500 or up usually!
believe me i was thinking of doing a swap but after the cost of the swap and the other parts needed to get my turbo working on the dohc i decided id rather keep the money and save up for paint
-Chris
1) get y8 head/intake manifold with all sensors
2) get y8 ecu
3) get a knock sensor for a y8 (y7s dont have them but ya will get a check engine if you use the y8 ecu and dont have it)
3) get a new headgasket and might want to get a new timing belt kit since that will be all exposed anyway and might be a good time to change your timing belt..
its best to note that if you are doing this with a y7/y8 and your a 96-98 car then try to get a 96-98 head/im/ecu since the 99/00 is slightly different (obd2.1 vs obd2) esp w/ the ecu..
make sure you have a manual of somesort, helms or haynes or chilton or something.. you will need it..
1) follow all manual instructions for removing the head/intake manifold
2) install knock sensor into block, you will need to run a wire for this since the y7 harness doesnt have this wire
3) put on new head gasket
4) put on new head/intake manifold
5) follow all instuctions for installing the head.. sensor hookup etc...
6)the only sensor that will not directly hookup from the y7 harness is the Idle Air Controller (IAC) the y8 has a 2 prong plug while the y7 has a 3 prong..
use the black/yellow from the y7 harness and then run another wire for the other pin in the y8 IAC
7)run two more wires for the VTEC solinoid and + on the VTEC pressure switch, just run the - on the VTEC pressure switch to a good ground in the engine bay
8)getting the new lines to the ecu is the hardest part.. since i couldnt find any replacement pins and just install them into the harness i just tapped it in directly to the ecu (to the board directly) but some wont want to do this.. definately reference your manual to see what pings goto where.. also get a connector diagram off hybrid.honda-perf.org
9)double check all connections!
10) start and hope it work
i think thats pretty much it there might be a few minor details left out but its a pretty straight forward process
bottom end can be left alone the y7 and y8 are almost the same anyway.. ive had 0 problems with this setup so far and yes you definately can feel the difference, the vtec engagement in the y8s is smooth you wont really feel it like ya do in z6's but ya can still hear the engagement
the few quirks i was talking about is when i used a 00 im with a 97 head.. they changed the design im assuming in 99 of the head/im mounting so the 00 im needed to have some breathers above the fuel injectors plugged (i had an intake manifold leak at first and ended up taking the im on and off 4 times which believe me isnt very fun!)
as far as everyone saying for cost do an engine swap to a DOHC.. thats a joke this is super cheap i spent around $800 and that includes a brand new knock sensor ($147!!) from honda, tbelt kit, 2 ecus (first one i got was auto.. got screwed ) and other misc stuff including 2 92-95 head gaskets (cause i wanted a cheap thick headgasket to lower compression for my turbo and my greddy 2mm is way backordered)
a GSR swap if you can find them in your area will run you $3500 or up usually!
believe me i was thinking of doing a swap but after the cost of the swap and the other parts needed to get my turbo working on the dohc i decided id rather keep the money and save up for paint
-Chris
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