ted

IN addition to just the TYPE R ENGINE, TRANNY, AND ECU.. what else would i need to do this type of swap? 93 dx hatch!

Brakes?
Suspension?
ETC......????????????????

endlesswinterco

iTrader: (1)

year of car would help, also, please search. they are so many theards about this, check out the hybrid section.

JeffS

1) go to the hybrid forum (the right forum)
2) read
3) search
4) read

At no point should you feel the need to post a thread asking about this. It's been discussed thousands of times now. It's not complicated and the information is all over the place.

endlesswinterco

iTrader: (1)

you say it so much better then me

B18C5-EH2

I'm copying this from an old topic about my own 1992 CX w/B18C5 Type R engine:

So here some tech directly related to the 1992-1995 Civic in terms of my set-up:
B18C5 engine wiring into a 1992-1995 Civic:

IMO the USDM ITR swap is easier to swap in. I've done this swap 3 times already and it is 100% easy especially if you run a re-chipped P28 and even more so if you have a 1992 Civic or any 1992-1995 Si, VX, or EX with VTEC wires.

Here's what you'd need too do if you have a USDM ITR swap:

KEEP the ITR engine harness. Regardless of what others say the plugs all plug right in. This way you get to keep the newer ITR distributor and injectors, and there is no need to rewire anything. Again this is from experience, not hearsay.

You'll have a few extra plugs left over on the ITR harness because the ITR has a few extras that our Civics don't have, like ABS, etc. You vcan just hide the extra plugs.

Now there's a few different ways to get an ECU to work, and I'll list them from easiest to hardest:

1. Re-chipped P28. This will simply plug in. No need to wire up for a knock sensor because the P28 doesn't read for one. Better fuel, timing, VTEC x-over, and rev limiter = more power. OBD1 so no need at all to run any sort of extra sensors.

2. Kenji OBD2 jumper harness and JDM P73 ECU. I ran this on my motor for a while before the kenji ECU. You'll have to wire up a knock sensor wire and that's about it. Drawbacks are that this ECU has a 113-115 speed limiter and it doesn't make the power that the kenji-spec P28 does. ThisECU has OBD2 type plugs but IT RUNS AN OBD1 PROGRAM AND IT IS ONLY OBD2 IN PLUGS!!! I ran this ECU with no extra o2 sensor, no crank fluctuation bullshit, etc.

3. Jumper harness with USDM P73 ECU. Why? I wouldn't do this unless I was in Cali and it was necessary for smog bullshit. You'd have to wire up all the extra OBD2 bullshit and the ECU sucks compared to a re-chipped P28.

So that's for the USDM motors, but what about the JDM ITR swaps?

As Apexi-ITR has said the JDM harness can be used. It requires some stretching but it will work. If you must get the factory look then get any OBD2 type engine harness from any USDM B18C1 or B18C5 and then it will plug right in just like I said the USDM swap does.

As far as ECU stuff goes, really a P28 is the better choice again but you will need to add a VTEC oil pressure switch onto the JDM ITR motor because it doesn't have one and the P28 looks for one. Just pull an oil pressure switch from another VTEC motor - didn't you use a SOHC one Apexi-ITR?

Or you can run the jumper harness and O.E JDM P73 ECU. This will save you from having to add the oil pressure switch, but you'll have to add a knock sensor and this ECU still has the shitty speed limiter.

USDM ECU? But why?

That's about all I can think of right now. I run the kenji-spec P28 ECU in my 1992 CX hatchback and with this method and keeping the ITR engine harness I did not have to add one single wire at all! It was absolutely 100% plug and play!

So what about the brakes set-up I have? How does one go about putting GS-R 4-wheel discs on his or her 1992-1995 Civic?

I purchased all 4 corners of suspension from a 1998 Integra GS-R. This was all of the lower control arms, all 4 spindles, rear trailing arms with e-brake cables, and of course all four corners of the brakes. Everything was still bolted together when it arived and there is no need to take any of it apart unless you will be replacing the rotors (I recommend this) and brake pads. I also got the rear and front swaybars too, but I only used the rear one.

The entire rear trailing arms bolt right up from the Integra to the Civic. Hook up the e-brake cables and you're set in the rear.

Up front the entire spindles again will bolt right up from the Integra to the Civic.

So here's the ever-popular question about the brakes:

Which master cylinder, booster, and prop valve am I running?

I am running an Integra RS master cylinder and booster. Why the RS? The RS is the only 1994-up Integra WITHOUT ABS, so there was not a single bit of line bending or reflaring to get it in. I used the RS booster as well, but you could use an LS one if you cannot find the RS one.

I recommend buying a new M/C from Acura. They're listed at like $160.00 but you can get a better deal for sure - I'll be back with the part number.

There is only one potential problem with the RS m/c with an LS/GS-R booster, and it is easy to find and fix. Fit up the RS m/c to your booster and if it fits very flush very easily then you're fine. If you have to kind of push on it to fit it flush and it feels "spring loaded" then you must trim 3/4 of an inch off of the booster rod on the engine bay side. It's very easy to do.

I bolted in an Integra GS-R prop valve too, but I don't know what year it was. It had the exact same line configuration as the stock Civic one, but the only difference is that on the 1992-1993 Civics the bracket is flatter than the 1994-up Civic and Integra brackets - I simply flattened the GS-R one out and it bolted up.

This is 100% line bending and flaring free - 100% direct bolt-up.

If you have any questions about the set-up I run, then feel free to ask here. The pics are pretty and all, but I hope that some more good tech info comes from this thread too in regards to my particular set-up and why I chose some of the things that I did.

Also check this stuff I posted a while back:

Okay, I’m sure this has been covered before, but I would like to have a fresh topic for this. In a recent IM with a friend here who bought a GS-R swap for his 1992 hatchback, we talked about him doing his own swap. Like him I’m sure that most of us were intimidated by our first swap, but I hope this thread can help cure any anxieties that people might have about doing their own swap.
I’ll try my best, but I could forget a thing or two here, so don’t take this as a end-all swap guide.

Here’s how I see it:

You’re going to pay a shop to do the swap. This could be anywhere from $500-$1,200 in labor. I work at a shop and there are some people that NEED to pay us to do the work, but if you have confidence and some common sense I promise you can do it.

Rather than pay for labor, you could use some of that cash to but a really nice toolset and a nice hydro jack too. Rent an engine hoist and possibly airtools and compressor and you're done a LOT cheaper than paying a shop - you KEEP the handtools and jack too!

I recommend any toolset like Craftsmen or Husky, whatever. Get the really nice “Mechanics’ Toolset” even if it costs a few hundred dollars. Remember, you KEEP these tools forever and they will help you countless times. I got a 250 pc. Craftsman set with a toolbox for lie $250.00 I think. Also remember METRIC

Get a hydro jack too - $100 sounds about right?

There are other tools that you will need too in order to swap successfully. I’ll TRY my best to list them - I’m sure you guys can add some more.

32mm socket for axle nuts
Prybar for axles and various deeds
Punchset for getting that damned shift linkage pin out
Nice sturdy hammer (obvious reasons, right?)
Dykes (don’t laugh - the wire-cutter things guys)
Cotter Pins (not a tool really)
Soldering iron for securing wiring

And fluids too:

However much motor oil your motor takes (usually 4.25, right?)
Tranny fluid of your choice (I prefer Honda MTF 3 qts. - really takes about 2.5)
Coolant
P/S fluid if applicable

So the labor part - not really in too much particular order for the first group of steps:

1. Drain coolant and tranny fluid You can pull the radiator out too to have more room

Disconnect all that would keep the engine from coming out:

2. All plugs on the engine harness that plug into the chassis harness
3. All hoses that connect as well. Upper and Lower radiator hoses, fuel lines, etc.
4. Header from exhaust
5. Shift linkage
A. To get that damned linkage pin, try this:
B. Pull the boot back from the shifter where it connects to the tranny. The boost exposes a clip that can be removed with a flathead screwdriver or your fingers. Then you’ll see the infamous linkage pin exposed. This is where you’ll need the right sized punch to get it out. It has to be small enough to slide in the shift rod, but big enough to push the pin out.
C. If you got pics of this bastard boot, please post them up!

6. Pull the axles out - how you ask? I’ll post the detailed instructions as soon as I find my old post about that here.
A. Here's how to pull the axles:
Tools you'll need if doing a Civic or Integra:
19mm for the wheel
32mm big-*** socket and BIG rachet for it - to break off and tighten back up the axle nut
17mm wrench
17mm wrench again or rachet
Dykes
Hammer
Prybar
TRY to get the entire front of the vehicle off the ground so you can turn the wheels to make things easier.

1. Take the wheel off with the 19mm
2. Take the 32mm nut off the end of the axle
3. Take the dykes and pull the cotter pin out of the bottom 17mm castle nut on the lower balljoint
4. Take the 17mm and remove the castlenut from the lower balljoint
5. Take your big-*** hammer and whack right ON the lower control arm where the balljoint sits - this method for buting the balljoint out will not tear the balljoint boot like the "balljoint wedge" will
6. Take both 17mm and remove the thru-bolt that runs through the lower fork of the front stut - this will allow the axle to slide out when ready by pulling the strut fork to the side of the lower control arm
7. Pull the brake rotor out of the way - axle is ready to come out
8. Take the prybar and pry the axle by prying between the inner joint and the tranny housing

**CAUTION**

If it's a manual tranny you NEED to drain it if you're doing the PASSENGER side on a car with equal-length driveshafts - if it's a B-series this applies. Unequal length shafts will require yopu to ALWAYS drain the tranny.

Reassamble it how you disassembled it. Only then you need to stake the axle nut down by putting a dent in it and do'nt forget to replace the cotter pin in the lower balljoint castlenut!

7. Undo the front and rear motor mounts.
8. Secure the engine hoist - there’s a bracket on the tranny to hook the chain to, and a place on the back of the head that accepts a solid 14mm bolt to hook the chain to as well. This is a balnced way to hoist it up Others may have other options too
9. After securing the motor, undo the rest of the mounts and YANK THAT BITCH OUT!
10. As the We Todd Did crew would do, sit back and drink some beer

So, how do you put the new motor back in? Same as the old one came out, and on the 1992-1995 Civics use the CIVIC mounts except for the timing cover drivers’ mount. I suggest Energy inserts for the other mounts

Wring? This has always been my weakness. Although it ain’t hard, I just get weird when wires come up. I’m sure others here have good advise and links. I see posts about pinouts and wiring, so how about we make this one a great place to find out exactly how it goes?

This is really a rough guide - it just shows you how easy the swap really is though, and others feel free to add advice/info too please!

Also in terms of what parts you'll need from the donor Type R:

Engine
Tranny
ECU
Mounts
Shift linkage
Axles
Intermediate shaft
Engine wiring harness
Upper and lower radiator hoses

Then add in a Del Sol VTEC throttle cable, and if you want to keep A/C then add in a 1997 CR-V A/C mount bracket

If you need additional info on the mounts I'll round up the diagram I used to use for that.

JDMlyfestyle

Damn Tom Finally made an appearance..lol but Tom is right. I believe ive only seen tom wrong 2 times on this site.

ted

thank u sooo much

93CX

newb got hooked up phat

ted

a shop is going to be doing the swap but i should no the basics i think. To bad my cars a 93 dx thow sounds like i have no VTEC wires.. is this a big deal? just to make sure...... so im going to need to buy a re chipped p28 ecu right? and the name is kenji?? soory thanks

JDMlyfestyle

yes kenji does awesome work with chipped p28's. not having vtec wired isnt really that big of deal. you can always buy a hasport vtec harness. I was going to make some but no one really showed any interest. Hasport charges 90+including shipping. i was gonna ask 50 for mine. but no one showed interest.

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ted &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a shop is going to be doing the swap but i should no the basics i think. To bad my cars a 93 dx thow sounds like i have no VTEC wires.. is this a big deal? just to make sure...... so im going to need to buy a re chipped p28 ecu right? and the name is kenji?? soory thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

Kenji rules:

kenji211@tampabay.rr.com - tell him tom from GA sent you.

I run his program on my ITR swap and it baselined better than any other ITR in my area with similiar other mods like i/h/e, etc.

Do you have any more specific questions about this swap?

Oh and adding the 2 VTEc wires is cake - the shop should be able to do that with no problems, and again do NOT let them use your stock Civic engine harness unless you don't get the ITR engine harness. The ITR engine harness allows you to keep the newer distributor, injectors, etc.

I've got pics of my ITR engine harness plugged directly into my 1992 CX chassis harness if there are any doubters out there.

ted

--do i need the type r ecu? even thow im going to be geting a re chipped p28?
--are? the parts needed to do the swap can come of a type r exept for the throttle cable and the p28 computer??
-- im vary new and i feel like i should no more but dont no what to ask... if there is any other basic stuff i should know plz tell... what a big help thow thanks alot man

B18C5-EH2

You do not need the ITR ECU - if it comes with the swap then sell the ECU to someone who needs it. People in emissions states with newer Civics doing ITR swaps will NEED that P73 ITR ECU - you won't.

And yes the 1994 Del Sol VTEc throttle cable bracket is about the only non Type-R part you'll need IF you get a complete USDM swap from a reputable salvage yard like Import Auto Salvage - 1-800-962-8922.

98DC2-ITR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You do not need the ITR ECU - if it comes with the swap then sell the ECU to someone who needs it. People in emissions states with newer Civics doing ITR swaps will NEED that P73 ITR ECU - you won't.

And yes the 1994 Del Sol VTEc throttle cable bracket is about the only non Type-R part you'll need IF you get a complete USDM swap from a reputable salvage yard like Import Auto Salvage - 1-800-962-8922. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks tom

ted

toms the MAN

julio2152

i got a ls integra swap with a gsr . dont now how to rewire vtec to computer help me