driving without a boot?
12-12-2006, 07:59 AM
#1
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driving without a boot?
is it safe enough to drive without an outer boot on the passenger axle? and a broken dust boot on the same side? i bought a replacement outer boot(not a temp one) only to forget that i dont have one of those ball joint seperator bars. so i'm gonna have to wait to go to a shop and have them put it on.
facing the passenger brake, all i have to do is remove that axle nut, and then take off the little nut on the ball joint with the dust boot on the end and then use the seperator to get it out and then it will come out right? or is there more i'm forgetting. i've done it once a year ago so i dont remember.
facing the passenger brake, all i have to do is remove that axle nut, and then take off the little nut on the ball joint with the dust boot on the end and then use the seperator to get it out and then it will come out right? or is there more i'm forgetting. i've done it once a year ago so i dont remember.
12-12-2006, 08:34 AM
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Re: driving without a boot? (JJDrivesAJazz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JJDrivesAJazz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NO!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
X2
X2
12-12-2006, 08:41 AM
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Re: driving without a boot? (JJDrivesAJazz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JJDrivesAJazz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NO!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
x3
The whole point of the boot is to keep the grease lubricating the joint in, and dirt and road grime out. Drive around without it and i guarantee that axle wont last long.
x3
The whole point of the boot is to keep the grease lubricating the joint in, and dirt and road grime out. Drive around without it and i guarantee that axle wont last long.
12-12-2006, 08:55 AM
#4
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you dont need a POS ball joint seperator....just a 1/2" ratchet:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=887859
those forks dont work anyway
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=887859
those forks dont work anyway
12-12-2006, 09:51 AM
#5
NONONONONONONONONNONOOOOOOOO!
if it snaps while you are driving it, i would advise you not to be in the car. The boot is there to hold the grease on the joint of the cv axle. Without a boot/ and grease, the axle is likely to break and you will expletive a lot of **** up suspension and body wise. Dont do it. $$ and fix it.
if it snaps while you are driving it, i would advise you not to be in the car. The boot is there to hold the grease on the joint of the cv axle. Without a boot/ and grease, the axle is likely to break and you will expletive a lot of **** up suspension and body wise. Dont do it. $$ and fix it.
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12-12-2006, 10:31 AM
#8
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Re: (fizix_skate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fizix_skate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Just replace the axle.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep, its easier and they have lifetime warranties from autozone/parts america stores
Yep, its easier and they have lifetime warranties from autozone/parts america stores
12-12-2006, 11:49 AM
#9
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Re: (pdiggitydogg)
You guys..honestly I'd feel safe putting few miles on an axle with no boot. How many people are driving around with split boots every day? There doesn't seem to be an epidemic of people spinning out from split CV boots.
When I do this job, I just disconnect the LCA (on the body side) and leave all the ball joints in place (since I HATE splitting ball joints). You swing the LCA out and it leaves enough room for the axle to come out. You can do the same thing by splitting the upper ball joint too. It comes loose easier than the lower.
Just a comment though, I'd rebuild a stock axle over using an Autozone POS axle any day. If it's just a DD then maybe it won't matter. If you track it though, you can't afford to have an axle break on you.
When I do this job, I just disconnect the LCA (on the body side) and leave all the ball joints in place (since I HATE splitting ball joints). You swing the LCA out and it leaves enough room for the axle to come out. You can do the same thing by splitting the upper ball joint too. It comes loose easier than the lower.
Just a comment though, I'd rebuild a stock axle over using an Autozone POS axle any day. If it's just a DD then maybe it won't matter. If you track it though, you can't afford to have an axle break on you.
12-12-2006, 12:03 PM
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Re: (MasterKwan)
you don't even have to take the cv out of the car. just unbolt the shock fork remove the lower ball joint castle nut. hit the lca around where the ball joint slides through (with a big hammer) until the ball joint comes loose. Remove the cv from the trans. disassemble the inner joint.until you can slide the new boot into place. Relube the joints with a molly grease and reassemble the car.
12-12-2006, 05:45 PM
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Re: (instructor74)
both my boots have slits in them from at least 115k and I have 158k and they are still not clicking. Everytime I have to take the car to the dealer they keep wanting to put new boots on but I have an extra set of axles I'm just gonna swap out sometime.
12-12-2006, 06:35 PM
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Re: (MasterKwan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MasterKwan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You guys..honestly I'd feel safe putting few miles on an axle with no boot. How many people are driving around with split boots every day? There doesn't seem to be an epidemic of people spinning out from split CV boots.
When I do this job, I just disconnect the LCA (on the body side) and leave all the ball joints in place (since I HATE splitting ball joints). You swing the LCA out and it leaves enough room for the axle to come out. You can do the same thing by splitting the upper ball joint too. It comes loose easier than the lower.
Just a comment though, I'd rebuild a stock axle over using an Autozone POS axle any day. If it's just a DD then maybe it won't matter. If you track it though, you can't afford to have an axle break on you. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Theres a difference between NO boot and a SPLIT boot. You go ahead and drive around without a boot at all and let us know how that goes. Real smart.
Disconnecting the ball joints makes it much easier to work on.
Nothing wrong with an autozone axle if you're not constantly beating the **** out of your car.
When I do this job, I just disconnect the LCA (on the body side) and leave all the ball joints in place (since I HATE splitting ball joints). You swing the LCA out and it leaves enough room for the axle to come out. You can do the same thing by splitting the upper ball joint too. It comes loose easier than the lower.
Just a comment though, I'd rebuild a stock axle over using an Autozone POS axle any day. If it's just a DD then maybe it won't matter. If you track it though, you can't afford to have an axle break on you. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Theres a difference between NO boot and a SPLIT boot. You go ahead and drive around without a boot at all and let us know how that goes. Real smart.
Disconnecting the ball joints makes it much easier to work on.
Nothing wrong with an autozone axle if you're not constantly beating the **** out of your car.
12-12-2006, 07:55 PM
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Re: (poison)
i dont knowwhy evryone is coming up with all these ideas on how to break the ball joint loose. just hit the side with a hammer a few times and it pops right out....everytime no harm done and easy to put back in....
honestly tho...i drove 25 miles with no boot on an axle that i ripped off on accident...had to get the car home to replace it...and thats with an h22 in an eg...so you know how the axle sits as it is...and i had no problems
honestly tho...i drove 25 miles with no boot on an axle that i ripped off on accident...had to get the car home to replace it...and thats with an h22 in an eg...so you know how the axle sits as it is...and i had no problems
12-12-2006, 08:04 PM
#15
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well i spent the last of the money i had on renting one of those ball joint forks, which was a pos and broke while trying to take it off, so i cant just take it back
anyways i got the axle out and put the boot over it, but its still not on there. the clamps that came on there are pointless and wont close, and i dont have anything big enough to go around the boots. i will end up replacing the axles, but first i need to get new lug nuts/studs.
anyways i got the axle out and put the boot over it, but its still not on there. the clamps that came on there are pointless and wont close, and i dont have anything big enough to go around the boots. i will end up replacing the axles, but first i need to get new lug nuts/studs.
12-14-2006, 08:14 PM
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Re: (ek gripper)
the reason they arent tight is because you need the boot clamp piers to tighten the clamp....get one asap or all the grease will come out of ths new boot and be ruined again
12-14-2006, 09:25 PM
#18
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hammer method doesnt always work...
And a broken fork doesnt surprise me either... Not to be an ***, but why didnt you listen to what people said about them?
And a broken fork doesnt surprise me either... Not to be an ***, but why didnt you listen to what people said about them?
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