Door lock and handle question.
01-29-2003, 08:20 PM
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Door lock and handle question.
My '95 EX coupe got broken into last nite, and it will never happen again! I'm going to get an alarm on payday but my question is this:
The theif didn't break my window or pick my lock he just shoved a screwdriver under the handle and shatterd the lock cylinder. I want to replace my handles with the rears off of a four door and they look pretty similar from the inside and out, but is it worth it to fabricate and swap or just fill and paint my old handle? And is anything else involved besides unhooking the rod from the cycilnders and the latch and filling the hole? (I have power locks and my alarm will have keyless entry) Even if this isn't foolproof I think it will at least detur people from my car. What do you think?
Russell Butler
RussellB@zooga.net
The theif didn't break my window or pick my lock he just shoved a screwdriver under the handle and shatterd the lock cylinder. I want to replace my handles with the rears off of a four door and they look pretty similar from the inside and out, but is it worth it to fabricate and swap or just fill and paint my old handle? And is anything else involved besides unhooking the rod from the cycilnders and the latch and filling the hole? (I have power locks and my alarm will have keyless entry) Even if this isn't foolproof I think it will at least detur people from my car. What do you think?
Russell Butler
RussellB@zooga.net
01-30-2003, 04:58 AM
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Re: Door lock and handle question. (Russ'91SI)
Mine was unlocked from the window. Either way they can still slim Jim their way inside. I thought my club and alarm will deter them away, but my thought was wrong and they still took my car.
What I'm saying is, it won't hurt trying, but this thieves are f*cking motivated whenever they see something they want and not even an autolok can stop them.
What I'm saying is, it won't hurt trying, but this thieves are f*cking motivated whenever they see something they want and not even an autolok can stop them.
01-30-2003, 05:08 AM
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Re: Door lock and handle question. (Russ'91SI)
Here you go,
I seem to post this about once a month so maybe it's time to finally build me up a web site.
Bellow is a portion of a much larger document that began with my swap research but has grown to incorporate all things Honda/Acura.
Hope this helps
Mike
<U>Notes on Security</U>
Now that you have done all these expensive modifications to your ride you should take some time to protect your investment. Nothing hurts more than having your pride and joy stripped to a shell by some useless waste of oxygen who would rather rip someone off than get a real job. There are several ‘layers’ of defense that you can employ and the more strategies you have in place the better. The point is to make getting into & stealing the car more trouble than it’s worth but bear in mind. If someone REALLY wants to get it they will so if possible, always park in a conspicuous place where towing the car would be obvious and difficult.
The first line of defense is keeping the bastards out of the car in the first place. Hondas, particularly the Civic and Integra models, are pathetically easy to break into. The two most common means are forcing the lock lever and pulling the door window ‘B’ pillar frame back. The first method is pretty easily defended against. If you take the inner door panel off and look at the back of the door handle you will notice that the lever on the back of the key cylinder which operates the bar connected to the door latch is totally exposed and can be forced from above by inserting a slim-jim or flat stick between the window and the lower weather strip. What you need to do is shield this lever so that it can’t be forced from above. What I have done is bend a 16 gauge steel plate into a ‘Z’ shape with one leg of the ‘z’ glued to the inside of the door sheet metal with epoxy* and the other leg folding over the latch lever. If you bend it correctly it won’t interfere with the lock operation or the window glass and it will make that method of breaking into the car virtually impossible.
*Use a good quality epoxy such as JB Weld or any marine grade epoxy. You will have to clamp the shield in place for at least 12 hours for a good bond. Remove the door handle to make this easier and protect the paint surface with a smooth block of wood while you clamp it.
The second method of forced entry, pulling the ‘B’ pillar window channel back, is a little more difficult to protect against. What I have done is to reinforce that area of the door to make it much more resistant to bending. If you study the sheet metal at the back edge of the door, where the ‘B’ pillar window channel meets the door skin you will see that the channel is hollow and that the metal forming it is only spot welded to the rest of the door. This is the weak point. I took a piece of 1.5” x 1/8” flat steel stock and ground down one edge into a crescent shape that matches the profile of the door panel/channel. I then inserted this into the hollow inside the channel and packed the entire area surrounding it with epoxy paste (again, JB Weld or PC-7 works great for this). Now the ‘B’ pillar glass channel is much stronger at the critical joint with the rest of the door.
Of course all these things are time consuming and you have to be pretty good with your hands to pull it off but ask yourself what that effort is worth compared to the possibility of losing the car.
I seem to post this about once a month so maybe it's time to finally build me up a web site.
Bellow is a portion of a much larger document that began with my swap research but has grown to incorporate all things Honda/Acura.Hope this helps
Mike
<U>Notes on Security</U>
Now that you have done all these expensive modifications to your ride you should take some time to protect your investment. Nothing hurts more than having your pride and joy stripped to a shell by some useless waste of oxygen who would rather rip someone off than get a real job. There are several ‘layers’ of defense that you can employ and the more strategies you have in place the better. The point is to make getting into & stealing the car more trouble than it’s worth but bear in mind. If someone REALLY wants to get it they will so if possible, always park in a conspicuous place where towing the car would be obvious and difficult.
The first line of defense is keeping the bastards out of the car in the first place. Hondas, particularly the Civic and Integra models, are pathetically easy to break into. The two most common means are forcing the lock lever and pulling the door window ‘B’ pillar frame back. The first method is pretty easily defended against. If you take the inner door panel off and look at the back of the door handle you will notice that the lever on the back of the key cylinder which operates the bar connected to the door latch is totally exposed and can be forced from above by inserting a slim-jim or flat stick between the window and the lower weather strip. What you need to do is shield this lever so that it can’t be forced from above. What I have done is bend a 16 gauge steel plate into a ‘Z’ shape with one leg of the ‘z’ glued to the inside of the door sheet metal with epoxy* and the other leg folding over the latch lever. If you bend it correctly it won’t interfere with the lock operation or the window glass and it will make that method of breaking into the car virtually impossible.
*Use a good quality epoxy such as JB Weld or any marine grade epoxy. You will have to clamp the shield in place for at least 12 hours for a good bond. Remove the door handle to make this easier and protect the paint surface with a smooth block of wood while you clamp it.
The second method of forced entry, pulling the ‘B’ pillar window channel back, is a little more difficult to protect against. What I have done is to reinforce that area of the door to make it much more resistant to bending. If you study the sheet metal at the back edge of the door, where the ‘B’ pillar window channel meets the door skin you will see that the channel is hollow and that the metal forming it is only spot welded to the rest of the door. This is the weak point. I took a piece of 1.5” x 1/8” flat steel stock and ground down one edge into a crescent shape that matches the profile of the door panel/channel. I then inserted this into the hollow inside the channel and packed the entire area surrounding it with epoxy paste (again, JB Weld or PC-7 works great for this). Now the ‘B’ pillar glass channel is much stronger at the critical joint with the rest of the door.
Of course all these things are time consuming and you have to be pretty good with your hands to pull it off but ask yourself what that effort is worth compared to the possibility of losing the car.
01-30-2003, 05:41 AM
#4
Re: Door lock and handle question. (92sleepR)
Here you go,
I seem to post this about once a month so maybe it's time to finally build me up a web site. Bellow is a portion of a much larger document that began with my swap research but has grown to incorporate all things Honda/Acura.
Hope this helps
Mike
<U>Notes on Security</U>
Now that you have done all these expensive modifications to your ride you should take some time to protect your investment. Nothing hurts more than having your pride and joy stripped to a shell by some useless waste of oxygen who would rather rip someone off than get a real job. There are several ‘layers’ of defense that you can employ and the more strategies you have in place the better. The point is to make getting into & stealing the car more trouble than it’s worth but bear in mind. If someone REALLY wants to get it they will so if possible, always park in a conspicuous place where towing the car would be obvious and difficult.
The first line of defense is keeping the bastards out of the car in the first place. Hondas, particularly the Civic and Integra models, are pathetically easy to break into. The two most common means are forcing the lock lever and pulling the door window ‘B’ pillar frame back. The first method is pretty easily defended against. If you take the inner door panel off and look at the back of the door handle you will notice that the lever on the back of the key cylinder which operates the bar connected to the door latch is totally exposed and can be forced from above by inserting a slim-jim or flat stick between the window and the lower weather strip. What you need to do is shield this lever so that it can’t be forced from above. What I have done is bend a 16 gauge steel plate into a ‘Z’ shape with one leg of the ‘z’ glued to the inside of the door sheet metal with epoxy* and the other leg folding over the latch lever. If you bend it correctly it won’t interfere with the lock operation or the window glass and it will make that method of breaking into the car virtually impossible.
*Use a good quality epoxy such as JB Weld or any marine grade epoxy. You will have to clamp the shield in place for at least 12 hours for a good bond. Remove the door handle to make this easier and protect the paint surface with a smooth block of wood while you clamp it.
The second method of forced entry, pulling the ‘B’ pillar window channel back, is a little more difficult to protect against. What I have done is to reinforce that area of the door to make it much more resistant to bending. If you study the sheet metal at the back edge of the door, where the ‘B’ pillar window channel meets the door skin you will see that the channel is hollow and that the metal forming it is only spot welded to the rest of the door. This is the weak point. I took a piece of 1.5” x 1/8” flat steel stock and ground down one edge into a crescent shape that matches the profile of the door panel/channel. I then inserted this into the hollow inside the channel and packed the entire area surrounding it with epoxy paste (again, JB Weld or PC-7 works great for this). Now the ‘B’ pillar glass channel is much stronger at the critical joint with the rest of the door.
Of course all these things are time consuming and you have to be pretty good with your hands to pull it off but ask yourself what that effort is worth compared to the possibility of losing the car.
I seem to post this about once a month so maybe it's time to finally build me up a web site.
Bellow is a portion of a much larger document that began with my swap research but has grown to incorporate all things Honda/Acura.Hope this helps
Mike
<U>Notes on Security</U>
Now that you have done all these expensive modifications to your ride you should take some time to protect your investment. Nothing hurts more than having your pride and joy stripped to a shell by some useless waste of oxygen who would rather rip someone off than get a real job. There are several ‘layers’ of defense that you can employ and the more strategies you have in place the better. The point is to make getting into & stealing the car more trouble than it’s worth but bear in mind. If someone REALLY wants to get it they will so if possible, always park in a conspicuous place where towing the car would be obvious and difficult.
The first line of defense is keeping the bastards out of the car in the first place. Hondas, particularly the Civic and Integra models, are pathetically easy to break into. The two most common means are forcing the lock lever and pulling the door window ‘B’ pillar frame back. The first method is pretty easily defended against. If you take the inner door panel off and look at the back of the door handle you will notice that the lever on the back of the key cylinder which operates the bar connected to the door latch is totally exposed and can be forced from above by inserting a slim-jim or flat stick between the window and the lower weather strip. What you need to do is shield this lever so that it can’t be forced from above. What I have done is bend a 16 gauge steel plate into a ‘Z’ shape with one leg of the ‘z’ glued to the inside of the door sheet metal with epoxy* and the other leg folding over the latch lever. If you bend it correctly it won’t interfere with the lock operation or the window glass and it will make that method of breaking into the car virtually impossible.
*Use a good quality epoxy such as JB Weld or any marine grade epoxy. You will have to clamp the shield in place for at least 12 hours for a good bond. Remove the door handle to make this easier and protect the paint surface with a smooth block of wood while you clamp it.
The second method of forced entry, pulling the ‘B’ pillar window channel back, is a little more difficult to protect against. What I have done is to reinforce that area of the door to make it much more resistant to bending. If you study the sheet metal at the back edge of the door, where the ‘B’ pillar window channel meets the door skin you will see that the channel is hollow and that the metal forming it is only spot welded to the rest of the door. This is the weak point. I took a piece of 1.5” x 1/8” flat steel stock and ground down one edge into a crescent shape that matches the profile of the door panel/channel. I then inserted this into the hollow inside the channel and packed the entire area surrounding it with epoxy paste (again, JB Weld or PC-7 works great for this). Now the ‘B’ pillar glass channel is much stronger at the critical joint with the rest of the door.
Of course all these things are time consuming and you have to be pretty good with your hands to pull it off but ask yourself what that effort is worth compared to the possibility of losing the car.
01-30-2003, 05:45 AM
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Re: Door lock and handle question. (Russ'91SI)
we just installed a passenger side rear door handle off a 4 door on my 90 si. I think its worth doing, it will look cleaner. Just shop around at junkyards.
01-30-2003, 07:00 AM
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Re: Door lock and handle question. (Russ'91SI)
The rear door handle will work with the front. It is a good thing. When you install the rear door handle the rod that locks the door from the outside will not be connected.
My car got broken into too, but I shaved the door handles instead and used door poppers.
Just take off your door panels and you will what happend when they used the screwdriver. You will need to pop the rods from the latch (a plastic clip, just look and you will see) first and then you can pull the rod from the latch.
The door handle is held in by three screws and if you want to remove the latch to make your job slightly easier remove the latch too by taking out the three big silver screws where the latch is connected.
Good luck
[Modified by tuphatt, 8:01 AM 1/30/2003]
My car got broken into too, but I shaved the door handles instead and used door poppers.
Just take off your door panels and you will what happend when they used the screwdriver. You will need to pop the rods from the latch (a plastic clip, just look and you will see) first and then you can pull the rod from the latch.
The door handle is held in by three screws and if you want to remove the latch to make your job slightly easier remove the latch too by taking out the three big silver screws where the latch is connected.
Good luck
[Modified by tuphatt, 8:01 AM 1/30/2003]
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01-30-2003, 07:31 AM
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Re: Door lock and handle question. (tuphatt)
Thanks for the "Notes On Secutity" I think that would help a lot. But say you have an extremely motivated theif who decides to just break the window or something. Get a fuel cut of switch and hide it! If they get in they could still get to a cd player and stuff like that but atleast they wont be able to take your baby. There is also a clutch lock thing (I dont know the name of it) but it's similar to the club but my friend tried everything he could to break it and it wasn't doable. You can find those at Kragen or similar stores.
But I say to the fuel cut off.
But I say
to the fuel cut off.
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