berts95ej

hey everyone! yes its true im planning a budget build on a d-series. some of you may find yourselves asking "why a d-series?" well let me answer this. because its a budget build and $900 for an ls engine isnt in the budget.

tomarrow im buying:
-dsm turbo (small but ill upgrade later)
-dsm sidemount (perfect for sleeper)
-dsm 440 injectors
-why so much dsm stuff? because im getting all three for $100

anyway the point of this post was to find out about connecting rods.
from what i understand b-series connecting rods are a direct swap for the little petite d series rods. if youve done this let me know how it worked out for you. id hate to get the rods and end up destroying my engine. if you have done this how much did you pay for the rods? and which b-series did you get them out of?

Bense

b-series = 21mm wrist pin
d-series = 19mm wrist pin

To run b18b rods you need to get some bushings to reduce that wrist pin diameter. By the time you get the b18b rods to work you would have just been better off getting a real set of rods.

stock block, you're limited to about 9 lbs of boost. D-series has a lot of weak points. The differential is very weak. Better upgrade to some kind of LSD if you plan on launching with it.

if you're going to turbo don't expect to be able to crank the boost up like the b-series guys. There are several guys on here with 15lb stock d16z6s But I wouldn't daily drive one of those.

berts95ej

thanks for the info. im only gonna run 8 lbs so i can keep it reliable and not make any major upgrades. more boost will come once i get job. im just trying to figure out what i can do to have the best results with the minimum amount of money in this project.

EG2Driver

maybe its off topic, but seeing ur topic. I saw this somewhere one HT

reliable, fast, inexpensive. You can never have all 3, only 2.

Jokerluv

sounds fun

splitime

Goto http://www.homemadeturbo.com or http://www.turbod16.com... to many people on here that really don't like Ds or fully understand what they can handle.

Saying that the guy can't run past 9psi safely... is silly... PSI means nothing... and issues with gearbox? The stock D trannies are just margianly weaker than the B trannies... and can have very good ratios... LSDs are also NOT necessary for putting down power... they just help.

I do however agree.. .that if you are going to do internals... just use an aftermarket rod and piston combo... don't bother with the LS... UNLESS you have a crazy machine shop hookup...(ie: free work)

mrbigg9032

I've seen stock d series blocks make in upwards of 400 whp without being sleeved. Just make sure you have a good tune...

ezekiel1059

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by berts95ej &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

tomarrow im buying:
-dsm turbo (small but ill upgrade later)
-dsm sidemount (perfect for sleeper)
-dsm 440 injectors
-why so much dsm stuff? because im getting all three for $100

</TD></TR></TABLE>

hey where the heck do you find a deal like that? another good investment would be some head studs and a new headgasket... looking to boost up my d16 soon! just lookin for a good deal like that

splitime

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbigg9032 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've seen stock d series blocks make in upwards of 400 whp without being sleeved. Just make sure you have a good tune... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Make sure you note that you mean stock SLEEVE blocks... with internals. People might think you meant a complete stock block including internals

berts95ej

im sure i cant have all three things, but im most concerned with being reliable, thats my #1 goal. thanks for the websites ill check em out after class tonight. about the internals, i was curious, im not putting in forged anything yet, simply a budget build for now and probably more when i start getting a pay check again. the turbo,injectors, and intercooler are coming from a friend of mine at school, he has a good handful of dsms, if you want to see if i can get stuff for you hit me up with a message on aol or something "sideshowbob421" and let me know what you want.
once again thanks for the info
-bab-

LSD_EG

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by splitime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The stock D trannies are just margianly weaker than the B trannies... </TD></TR></TABLE>
not true, when we took apart my d tranny and compared the gears to the b gears. the d gears are thicker.

also, i had a greddy kit on my ek. the best advice would be head studs, head gasket along with getting it tuned! i blew the head gasket when i bumped it past 6psi. thats all you gotta worry about until you get your job

splitime

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatchkid96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not true, when we took apart my d tranny and compared the gears to the b gears. the d gears are thicker.

also, i had a greddy kit on my ek. the best advice would be head studs, head gasket along with getting it tuned! thats all you gotta worry about until you get your job</TD></TR></TABLE>

Think more along the lines of bearings... thats one of the D weakpoints.

Bense

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by splitime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Goto http://www.homemadeturbo.com or http://www.turbod16.com... to many people on here that really don't like Ds or fully understand what they can handle.

Saying that the guy can't run past 9psi safely... is silly... PSI means nothing... and issues with gearbox? The stock D trannies are just margianly weaker than the B trannies... and can have very good ratios... LSDs are also NOT necessary for putting down power... they just help.

I do however agree.. .that if you are going to do internals... just use an aftermarket rod and piston combo... don't bother with the LS... UNLESS you have a crazy machine shop hookup...(ie: free work)</TD></TR></TABLE>

PSI means nothing....right. Try launching a with strong clutch on a d-series tranny. Tell me how long that differential will go without busting and taking out the entire case when it happens. You say that LSDs aren't required. Yet nobody makes a stronger aftermarket open differential. Yeah there may be a "spool" option, but how streetable is that on a FF car?

The only way d-series can have good gearing is if you find a dohc cable zc tranny for the sole purpose of pulling the 1.346 third gear out of. Believe me, I had to do it with my tranny...

splitime

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">PSI means nothing....right. Try launching a with strong clutch on a d-series tranny. Tell me how long that differential will go without busting and taking out the entire case when it happens. You say that LSDs aren't required. Yet nobody makes a stronger aftermarket open differential. Yeah there may be a "spool" option, but how streetable is that on a FF car?

The only way d-series can have good gearing is if you find a dohc cable zc tranny for the sole purpose of pulling the 1.346 third gear out of. Believe me, I had to do it with my tranny... </TD></TR></TABLE>

PSI means ****.... seriously. If you don't understand what I'm saying... or why... just stop responding.

As far as launching... how much HP are we talking about? I know numerous people running from 14s to 11s... on upgraded clutches/slicks/drag radials/all seasons/stock axles etc.... and not blowing up trannies. Yes they are weaker... but it also comes down to the driver and the abuse they give the car on launch... preloading goes a long way.... for axles and diff life.

LSD is nice... stock Diff does fine... unless we are talking really really high HP setups... which are not quite as prevelant in the D world.

And if you want to talk about using ZC parts... last I checked one of the bonuses of that trans IS the diff(or oem lsd)... so you can run a halfshaft and use equal length axles... not to mention when you hybrid that with an SI trans... you get a really nice oem gearset with the 3rd AND 4th being used. (I'm suprised you'd only use the 3rd gear ... since you seem to know so much about trannys (your B tranny link))

mrbigg9032

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ezekiel1059 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hey where the heck do you find a deal like that? another good investment would be some head studs and a new headgasket... looking to boost up my d16 soon! just lookin for a good deal like that</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your right, my bad. People are going to start thinking wow 400 whp on stock rods and pistons sounds pretty good.

mrbigg9032

Wrong quote, wanted to quote u splitime

berts95ej

hey good news for all those that are against the sidemount intercooler i was planning on using, i might be getting the front mount from an srt-4. im trying to get it for $70.

Bense

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by splitime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">PSI means ****.... seriously. If you don't understand what I'm saying... or why... just stop responding.

As far as launching... how much HP are we talking about? I know numerous people running from 14s to 11s... on upgraded clutches/slicks/drag radials/all seasons/stock axles etc.... and not blowing up trannies. Yes they are weaker... but it also comes down to the driver and the abuse they give the car on launch... preloading goes a long way.... for axles and diff life.

LSD is nice... stock Diff does fine... unless we are talking really really high HP setups... which are not quite as prevelant in the D world.

And if you want to talk about using ZC parts... last I checked one of the bonuses of that trans IS the diff(or oem lsd)... so you can run a halfshaft and use equal length axles... not to mention when you hybrid that with an SI trans... you get a really nice oem gearset with the 3rd AND 4th being used. (I'm suprised you'd only use the 3rd gear ... since you seem to know so much about trannys (your B tranny link))</TD></TR></TABLE>

There's different methods in using the zc gears for a hydro tranny. when honda designed the hyrdo tranny for some reason they reversed the 3rd and 4th gear and it's synchro hub. zc 4th = 1.033 hf/std 3rd = 1.033 You can either grind the inside bore of the zc 4th gear so that it can clear the synchro hub, or you can get hf/std guts for the cost of shipping like I did. Now which would you do? The zc 2nd gear is 1.944 and the hyrdo si 2nd is 1.9 too little of a difference to really even worry about. Not to mention that it won't even fit in a hyrdo case. All first gears are the same of 3.25 leaving the only other difference in 5th gear. Most people with the hybrid setup prefer to keep the 0.771 5th or the 0.750 5th instead of the 0.878 zc 5th. Even bone prefers the 771 or the 750 5th.

DOHC ZC trans are getting very hard to come across. The DOHC cable zc trans with OEM LSDs are even more difficult to come across. Perhaps if one gets a zc tranny with an LSD, it might be worthwhile to use the midshaft with the hybrid axles. however even with that said, it's just not worth it IMO to build hybrid axles so that you can use the halfshaft with the open differential.

Please explain to me how psi means nothing? I'm seriously curious about this.

splitime

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Please explain to me how psi means nothing? I'm seriously curious about this.</TD></TR></TABLE>

For the tranny stuff... i was going off purely cable to cable hybriding

Regardless... PSI isn't the factor that is relating to power. A car with a t25 at 10psi... is not going to be making the same as a t4 at 10psi... Its about the CFMs the turbo pushes and then the POWER output from the motor that is the issue. PSI really has no direct link to power... until alot of other factors are put into the equation... but with HP/TRQ numbers... you don't need many other factors.
Visual

vs

Not going to be comparable using PSI...