ApolloSpeed

I was reading the Cspeed Racing tutorial on clutch and flywheel install..... it says I need to first take out the axles and drain the tranny.

Do I really have to do that ?

unknown0001

if you pop out the axles the fluid will probobly leak so drain the tranny first

CardDealer

Modified by CardDealer at 3:00 PM 11/16/2006

ApolloSpeed

so, axles and draining tranny is pretty much a standard deal huh ?

dohcdelsol

no you dont have to drain the fluid... but you'll have a huge mess to deal with.

yeah, axles, drain fluid, easier to remove the starter too...

ApolloSpeed

so, both axles ?

...also, what do yall recommend, as far as typeor brand of tranny fluid to put back into it ?

dohcdelsol

Honda Transmission Fluid only...

ive heard of other stuff working, but honda's is the best for it.

sohc tranny?? ur only gunna need 1.8 qts so just buy 2, cost bout 4.50 each

Turbo_y8

so your going to try to do a clutch and flywheel and you dont know as if to drain the fluid or not.

Ill be looking for the new clutch, in gear nothing happens thread in a couple days

Frozen E

honda MTF for replacement fluid.
and yeah, I THINK both axles need to come out of the tranny, unless you can get a stand under the tranny and have some real tiny hands and you can work on it while it's up on the stand. Not recommended of course.

mik101

Yup

s_vares

yes, or big mess

paulzy

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by s_vares &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, or big mess</TD></TR></TABLE>
quit rhymin' Jay-z

ApolloSpeed

Yeah, this is my first time doing a clutch....so bare with me guys, I hope it is not too hard!

I guess I will go to autozone and get some new Axles cause I have 160,000 miles on my B16a3 and never replaced them yet.

And I need to get a 32mm socket, and Honda MTF (2 qts.).

Is that all I will need ? Anyother maintence I should do while I'm there ?

Leb_CRX

clutch alignment tool if you dont have one

JDMKid71

depends on what year it is.. but if im not mistaken i think all D series (SOHC engines) are the same, you will need a 10mm wrench or socket to take the pressure plate off and then a 12 point 17mm socket (shallow well preferably) to take the flywheel off of the crank. <U>I would also HIGHLY recommend you get the torque specs for those (or ill post them in a little bit) and get a good torque wrench and torque both the pressure plate and the flywheel down. if you don't then you may have some bigger problems to deal with shortly down the road. </U>

JDMKid71

out of the haynes manual

Pressure plate - 19 ft lbs
Flywheel bolt - 87 ft lbs

ApolloSpeed

I have the DOHC B16A3 motor..... not a D series, not a SOHC

JDMKid71

First mistake was hating on D series, 2nd then look up the information yourself. you need to torque that **** down. good luck on your first time.

ApolloSpeed

dude....I wasn't trying to be rude.....my bad!

I really appreciate any help from you and everyone on this board.

I guess I'm gonna go to autozone right now and get some MTF, Axles, and a 32mm socket...... I start this **** in the morning.

99blackcivicSi

i use GM syncro mesh FM good stuff.

yes you need to take both axles out.

starter

undo the reverse switch harness

mount

slave cylinder (don't overthrow this or i will be responding to your new thread on i don't have any clutch pedel pressure )

bellhousing bolts

take trans out, if you can't figure out the rest you shoudln't be working on this project.

and to the guy that siad you need an alingment tool, most good clutch kits come with an alingment tool

and i two stage tighten the flywheel and the clutch, and i use air, i have never had a problem in the 300+ clutches i have done with using air and not torquing them down to "proper" spec so yea there you go bye

EE_Chris

You should really look into a Helms manual. Having an impact really helps for this job too.

Autozone doesn't sell Honda MTF....Honda does.

Why do you need a 32mm socket?

Do you have means to seperate the knuckle from the LCA? Like a 10lb mini-sledge, for example.

NEVER pull on the axle - pry it out of the transmission.

sleeping_forest

32 mm socket is for the axle nut, I'm guessing.

EE_Chris brings up a good point about separating the knuckle from the LCA (when you're removing the axles)... A sledge is good, or you might hear about using a jack and something as a wedge to force the joint out.

dohcdelsol

Yes, pry out the axles, do not just pull em... i did this recently, pull on the axle when doin some suspension work and i ended up sliding the boot causeing grease to leak out of the seal... not only does that grease stink when it burns off the block/ oilpan, but u end up needing new axles...

Padawan

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ApolloSpeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess I'm gonna go to autozone right now and get some MTF, Axles, and a 32mm socket...... I start this **** in the morning. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Do yourself a favor and pick up a Chilton or Haynes manual while you're there. Neither is as comprehensive as a Helm, but they're inexpensive and very useful when working on your car.

EE_Chris

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by msz-006 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">32 mm socket is for the axle nut, I'm guessing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You are correct - it'd be for the axle nut. Why he is taking the axles out of the knuckle though? Seperate the knuckle/LCA and remove the shock fork pinch bolt and the whole knuckle with axle will swing out of the way.