bryan95x

Hey guys, i have an issue with my axles and i can't find the research and problem solver.

So a week ago, i was doing a mild maintenance on my b16a3, new tranny fluid, new axles, new booster / delete plate etc etc. I bought some orileys axles (best select / auto zone axles, same ****) because this was only going to be temporary because my dad was kinda bothered by my original axles.

Reason why, was because my original drivers side inner axle boot was basically open showing the inner bearings. My original plan was to buy the IL4 Class axles later on because of my current funds.

When i was installing my new Tein coil overs with my friend we disconnected the upper control arm (to get more room to remove the old set of sleeves) and the whole part of that axle came out (with the bearings) and it was a struggle to put it back in so i can be able to at least drive home. It came successful but then i wanted to definitely replace them asap.

They told us that they were NOT remanned which in my case i believe is bullshit but we did it anyways because of the lifetime warranty.

When we put the new axles in, they clicked meaning they're in, we checked both sides to make sure both driver and passenger were in completely, and they were.

We torqued down the axle nut to 181 ft-lbs which i guess is spec because thats what we were told by orileys employees and from what i read from research, idk if thats right or wrong because i don't know who to believe. Then we dented the nut in with the flat head screwdriver and hammer and we were sure it wasn't coming out.

When me and my dad replaced the axles with the new replacement ones, this issue started to happen.

When i drive my car i have this shaking problem at the steering wheel when i accelerate. At first i just thought it was something loose suspension wise but i checked twice and still not the problem.

I don't know if its if i need an alignment?
New axles because they mainly remanned and from orileys?
Not the right torque spec?
Steering rack going bad ?

I just couldn't find the issue completely. All the research I've done i haven't been successful with. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

The axles are shaking because you seperated them and the re-assembly must not have gone well. I'm confident in this. I knew exactly where the thread was going when you started with "I took off the UCA....."

Good thing you have a lifetime warranty.

Future reference: never pull on or stretch axles...especially aftermarket ones. Those autozone axles are going to give you constant issues now that the car is lowered, BTW.

I'd rather have reman'd axles since those have a better chance of retaining a few OEM parts.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Lift the car and get underneath so you can get a good look at the axles. Try to look directly upwards at them. Have someone spin one of the wheels. Look for the axle that is rotating out of round. It'll look like it hops as it turns.

Remove that axle. Take it back. Get it swapped out. Don't stretch it or let it come apart. Your issue will be resolved.

bryan95x

what is he correct way to pull them out ? keep rotating til they just pop off after you use a pry bar ? and what do you mean by separating them ?

Former User

When the axle is removed from hub side, the axle should just slide out of the transmission after prying between the differential and CV joint.

BrakeExpert

Was this the axle that went into the tranny or the one that went onto the midshaft? Also, torque is closer to 130lb-ft, thats too much. if the bearing came apart and ya put it back together, yeah sounds like the bearing is cooked. check the wheel for play in the rack by jacking the car, grabbing the wheel and trying to rock it side to side.

FYI, when you do axles, you need only unbolt the axle and lower control arm's ball joint.

Heres a trick. when you put the axle in and then bolt the axle nut, before ya hookup the LCA, you can pivot the knuckle and swing it, sort of using it to tap the axle into the tranny to 'click' as you call it.

And dont worry about axle length. when your car's suspension moves up and down, the axle length changes. the inner CV joint has rollers and a length which with it may stretch, unlike the outer CV joint. in other words, its designed for some variation in length, autozone brand or OEM.

been running autozone axles on a lowered civic for like 8 years, ive changed the pairs twice due to hitting rocks or crap that tore open the boot on the drivers side twice.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Removing driver side axle: hit inner CV joint with a hammer towards the outboard side of the car. A good whack or 2 will do it. Or use a pry bar and tap/slap the pry bar....don't try to pry.

Passenger side axle: pry bar between inner cv and trans. Tap/slap the pry bar.

Never pull on these type of axles. Installing or uninstalling.

bryan95x

Thanks guys for all of the replies !

Turns out the axles that i had was booboo so i just went with the inline four class axles and my car now drives prime.

josediazz94

How did those IL4 axles hold up? They still running strong? I was thinking about getting either those or the Drive shaft Shop axles.