DIY - modifying distributor for msd - WRITE-UP!
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DIY - modifying distributor for msd - WRITE-UP!
Step-by-step instructions on modifying a distributor for MSD (external coil)
Tools/supplies needed:
- 12mm wrench
- Philips screwdriver
- Wire cutters/trimmers
- Needle-nose pliers (very helpful)
- Dremell / small drill (a little smaller than the wires you’re going to use)
- Soldering iron (soldering gun’s a lot nicer/safer)
- Soldering flux
- Solder
- Heat shrink tubing
- Cigarette lighter (cheaper than a heat gun)
- 16-gauge wires (two different colors)
- MSD distributor cap (might be a good idea to change the rotor at this time, too)
If you’re doing this, you more than likely know what a distributor is and where it is.
First, using a Philips screwdriver, remove the three bolts holding the distributor cap and remove the cap.
For ease of working, unbolt the three 12mm bolts holding the distributor (clean it up, makes it a lot nicer to work on).
Very important: If removing the distributor, note where the distributor rotor is pointing.
Now, remove the distributor gasket.
Looking from the side, rotate the distributor rotor until you see a bolt on the shaft.
If you haven’t removed the distributor from the engine, the easiest way to turn the rotor is to crank the engine little by little until you see the bolt.
Remove that bolt.
To make it easier, I would suggest an impact screw driver, although it’s not necessary.
After you remove the rotor, the plastic piece underneath should come off very easily.
Using the Philips screwdriver, remove the two bolts holding the wires attached to the coil.
Looking from the side, there will be two bolts holding the internal coil.
Remove those bolts and pull out the coil.
Unscrew the wire bracket on the outside of the distributor (will make it easier later on).
Also, unscrew the magnetic sensor.
Pull out the rubber groomer as far as it goes (a few mm) and move wires to the side.
Using a dremell or a small drill, drill two holes slightly smaller than the wires you’re going to use.
Be careful not to drill too low (might damage other wires) and not too high (got to leave room for the gasket).
Route the new wires through the holes in the rubber groomer.
Strip the tips of all five wires you are going to solder.
Put tow pieces of heat shrink tubing (1/2” long) on the wires you just installed and slide them as far back as possible so they wouldn’t start shrinking while you’re soldering.
Move the new wires through one of the O.E. coil-bracket-bolt holes.
This way if you ever accidentally tug on the wires, you won’t pull them off.
The five wires are as follows:
One white/green wire which was originally connected to the (-) side of the O.E. coil will be soldered to the white wire you just put in. (two wire connection).
The two black/green wires which were originally connected to the (+) side of O.E. coil will be soldered to the black wire you just put in. (three wire connection).
Make a good physical connection between wires before you solder them.
Apply some soldering flux for better results.
Once the wires cool off, move the heat shrink tubing onto the open wires and using a heat gun (or a cigarette lighter) heat it up (careful not to burn them).
Make sure the wires are snug.
Reassemble the inner cover and the rotor (perfect time to put in a new one).
If you choose so, route the new wires along with the other nine wires coming out of the distributor through the stock wire loom (makes it look totally factory).
Reinstall the bracket holding the wires (on the outside of the distributor).
If you have removed the distributor to do this, you can now remount it and make sure the rotor is pointing in the right direction (180* difference is no joke).
Now install the gasket and mount the MSD distributor cap.
As far as I can see, this is the cleanest and most efficient way to do this.
Good luck to those who are planning on doing this.
Modified by d16rice at 7:40 AM 4/12/2005
Modified by d16rice at 7:42 AM 4/12/2005
Tools/supplies needed:
- 12mm wrench
- Philips screwdriver
- Wire cutters/trimmers
- Needle-nose pliers (very helpful)
- Dremell / small drill (a little smaller than the wires you’re going to use)
- Soldering iron (soldering gun’s a lot nicer/safer)
- Soldering flux
- Solder
- Heat shrink tubing
- Cigarette lighter (cheaper than a heat gun)
- 16-gauge wires (two different colors)
- MSD distributor cap (might be a good idea to change the rotor at this time, too)
If you’re doing this, you more than likely know what a distributor is and where it is.
First, using a Philips screwdriver, remove the three bolts holding the distributor cap and remove the cap.
For ease of working, unbolt the three 12mm bolts holding the distributor (clean it up, makes it a lot nicer to work on).
Very important: If removing the distributor, note where the distributor rotor is pointing.
Now, remove the distributor gasket.
Looking from the side, rotate the distributor rotor until you see a bolt on the shaft.
If you haven’t removed the distributor from the engine, the easiest way to turn the rotor is to crank the engine little by little until you see the bolt.
Remove that bolt.
To make it easier, I would suggest an impact screw driver, although it’s not necessary.
After you remove the rotor, the plastic piece underneath should come off very easily.
Using the Philips screwdriver, remove the two bolts holding the wires attached to the coil.
Looking from the side, there will be two bolts holding the internal coil.
Remove those bolts and pull out the coil.
Unscrew the wire bracket on the outside of the distributor (will make it easier later on).
Also, unscrew the magnetic sensor.
Pull out the rubber groomer as far as it goes (a few mm) and move wires to the side.
Using a dremell or a small drill, drill two holes slightly smaller than the wires you’re going to use.
Be careful not to drill too low (might damage other wires) and not too high (got to leave room for the gasket).
Route the new wires through the holes in the rubber groomer.
Strip the tips of all five wires you are going to solder.
Put tow pieces of heat shrink tubing (1/2” long) on the wires you just installed and slide them as far back as possible so they wouldn’t start shrinking while you’re soldering.
Move the new wires through one of the O.E. coil-bracket-bolt holes.
This way if you ever accidentally tug on the wires, you won’t pull them off.
The five wires are as follows:
One white/green wire which was originally connected to the (-) side of the O.E. coil will be soldered to the white wire you just put in. (two wire connection).
The two black/green wires which were originally connected to the (+) side of O.E. coil will be soldered to the black wire you just put in. (three wire connection).
Make a good physical connection between wires before you solder them.
Apply some soldering flux for better results.
Once the wires cool off, move the heat shrink tubing onto the open wires and using a heat gun (or a cigarette lighter) heat it up (careful not to burn them).
Make sure the wires are snug.
Reassemble the inner cover and the rotor (perfect time to put in a new one).
If you choose so, route the new wires along with the other nine wires coming out of the distributor through the stock wire loom (makes it look totally factory).
Reinstall the bracket holding the wires (on the outside of the distributor).
If you have removed the distributor to do this, you can now remount it and make sure the rotor is pointing in the right direction (180* difference is no joke).
Now install the gasket and mount the MSD distributor cap.
As far as I can see, this is the cleanest and most efficient way to do this.
Good luck to those who are planning on doing this.
Modified by d16rice at 7:40 AM 4/12/2005
Modified by d16rice at 7:42 AM 4/12/2005
#5
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (Mr Pho King)
I didnt even have to read it, i just looked at the pictures and they explained themselfs (in there own way)
Very good This is how all How To's should be.
Very good This is how all How To's should be.
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Re: DIY - modifying distributor for msd - WRITE-UP! (B16aDasher)
I figure if you do something, do it right the first time.
This way you can run the wires along with all the stock ones, making it clean/tangle-free.
If you have time, then yes, it’s worth it, otherwise… …well, I wouldn’t do it any other way.
As for putting the MSD in, it all depends on what you’re planning on doing.
I got a very good deal on this setup, so to me it’s worth every penny.
Thanks everyone.
This way you can run the wires along with all the stock ones, making it clean/tangle-free.
If you have time, then yes, it’s worth it, otherwise… …well, I wouldn’t do it any other way.
As for putting the MSD in, it all depends on what you’re planning on doing.
I got a very good deal on this setup, so to me it’s worth every penny.
Thanks everyone.
#11
Re: DIY - modifying distributor for msd - WRITE-UP! (d16rice)
wow lol i really could have used this like 2 months ago. i now have a nice lil slit in my cap for the wires to come out of. i think i might do this and either sell my new cap to a friend or silicone over the hole.
good writeup.
good writeup.
#12
Junior Member
Nice writeup! I just tryed doing this the other day but the screw that holds rotor in Stripped so now I am fucked.. i have everything lying around and I cant do **** about it..
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Re: (berettagtz117)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by berettagtz117 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice writeup! I just tryed doing this the other day but the screw that holds rotor in Stripped so now I am fucked.. i have everything lying around and I cant do **** about it.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks.
I was going to say I have a spare distributor, but then I saw what car/engine you have. The distributor I have is for 92-95 (got duped into buying it when I was actually looking for a 96-98, oh well).
Don’t wary, it’s not all lost. You have three choices:
1. Go to an engine shop and ask them to remove it . They charge $20-30, sometimes less. This way you’ll have no headaches or anything (that’s the way I’d do it).
2. You could buy a bolt removal kit and try doing it yourself. This would cost about the same and would be a lot more pain-in-the-***.
3. Forget abut MSD and put the distributor back on (a cowards way out, ha ha ha , just kidding, if the first two choices don’t work for you, this is the only reasonable solution).
Thanks.
I was going to say I have a spare distributor, but then I saw what car/engine you have. The distributor I have is for 92-95 (got duped into buying it when I was actually looking for a 96-98, oh well).
Don’t wary, it’s not all lost. You have three choices:
1. Go to an engine shop and ask them to remove it . They charge $20-30, sometimes less. This way you’ll have no headaches or anything (that’s the way I’d do it).
2. You could buy a bolt removal kit and try doing it yourself. This would cost about the same and would be a lot more pain-in-the-***.
3. Forget abut MSD and put the distributor back on (a cowards way out, ha ha ha , just kidding, if the first two choices don’t work for you, this is the only reasonable solution).
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