b-powa

anyone ever tried this..

Well like alot of peeps with bad camber i cant afford a kit. either that you would want to spend the money to feel on the butt dyno.

I sat back and though of this, which require drilling and or filing..

i took the upper controlarm out and redrilled and filed the hole that holds the 2 knuckles that bolt up to the frame.

it gave about half an inch of adjustment. i measured everything; in order to get perfect camber, i would need to redrill the frame part thich bolts the knuckle in the engine bay near your shock tower..

just a though for all you diy.. this is kind of a one time deal so do it at your own risk.

results car handle fine and i can feel less oversteer on the car cause of the tire contact. wish i would thought of this a long time ago..

p.s. my car is lowered to half of a finger gap in front.


Modified by b-powa at 10:32 PM 3/18/2004

WalkingKenshin

umm.. by far the WORST write up ever for a diy. Dood, relabel your topic

blahhh blah blah blah blahh

diearzte2

K, so from what i understand, you took out the upper arm and redrilled holes so that it had the same effect as a camber kit. Did you redrill the holes at location 1 or 2?



Or are you saying that you redrilled the holes that hold the upper arm to the car itself? In which case , i dont see how that is possibe. The bolt goes through the upper arm and threads into a fixed location on the other side, which would be difficult to accurately relocate.

743power

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by diearzte2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Or are you saying that you redrilled the holes that hold the upper arm to the car itself? In which case , i dont see how that is possibe. The bolt goes through the upper arm and threads into a fixed location on the other side, which would be difficult to accurately relocate. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm guessing he has an eg, where the UCA bolts go through the top of the shock towers.

Either way, you did more than change your camber, which you dont even know the extent to which you changed it. Camber kits adjust the position of the wheel, by moving the knuckle in or out. Changing the position of the UCA was probably not the best idea.

I'd love to be proved wrong.

dpw41285

My brain is hurting trying to understand what this guy did to make his upper control arm weaker. If you cant afford to do sometihng right dont do it at all. I guess you should have never lowered the car

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

The diagram above is a 96-00 Civic upper control arm. 92-95 Civics and 94-01 Integras have upper control arm bolts that come up through the top of the shock tower and have nuts on top. I'm guessing he enlarged (elongated) the holes in the shock tower.

The idea is okay I guess, kinda similar to how camber/caster plates work for cars with McPherson strut front suspension.

However I wouldn't be willing to take the chance of weakening that part of the car's structure. I'm willing to bet that with a proper alignment you wouldn't need a camber kit at all.

WalkingKenshin

cuase thier SUCKAS

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic_rice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If that is the case, then why does everyone jump to buy a camber kit?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Got me man, I think camber kits are overrated unless you need to dial in more camber for track use. If you *have* to use a camber kit to keep from wearing tires unevenly, even with proper toe settings and tire rotations, then your car is too low. My car has about -2.5 camber in front. I currently have over 25K miles on my tires, and yes the inside edges are wearing down a bit, but pretty much the entire width of the tires are almost down to the end of their life. But yes my car is too low (POS H&R Sport springs). 3" drop here. I think you could get totally even tire wear with a 2" drop or less without any camber correction.

1hotcivicSi

ide buy the ebay brand be4 i ever even thought about doing that

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goochie34 on eBay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IF YOUR CAR IS LOWERED THIS IS A MUST!!! YOU MUST BUY THIS TO SAVE YOUR TIRES</TD></TR></TABLE>

lies... what a rip off

sohcvtec1995

this is by far the worst write up i have read. It dose not even say what kind of car it is for. (unless i missed it in my state of confusion.)

egturbo

i would never do this.

AzntaggeR

ok, i kinda get what he's trying to say. i wouldn't try it though, because what if you have to re-adjust your camber in the front? not to mention if you cut and fill in that portion of the car it probably brings down the integrity of the shock towers. seems like more trouble then it's worth.

1hotcivicSi

ya thats what im sayin i wouldnt ever buy the ones on ebay. . .. . so i would NEEVER even think about doin this job that this guy has done haha

diearzte2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is the 2nd worst write-up. The 1st one was that guy who places a sidemarker light on his door panel...he posted on this thread aswell.</TD></TR></TABLE>

w0rd

Jaysun

I liked it, and plan on doing it but wiring to my dome light instead.

b-powa

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by diearzte2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">K, so from what i understand, you took out the upper arm and redrilled holes so that it had the same effect as a camber kit. Did you redrill the holes at location 1 or 2?



Or are you saying that you redrilled the holes that hold the upper arm to the car itself? In which case , i dont see how that is possibe. The bolt goes through the upper arm and threads into a fixed location on the other side, which would be difficult to accurately relocate. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i drilled the 1st location.. i drilled it to the very end like 2 millimeters to the end..all u haters this is not for you so dont take my advice.. i admit it is hard to explain because i dont have pics.. it took me a while to think of this.. i know it is not presice, but it did the trick for me.. i got another set of control arm that is why i did this.. like i said so far i have no problems.. as fo ir being weaker like mentioned above..how??

b-powa

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Because they'll let Mechanical Engineers do all the PRECISE fabrication and fitment which is what we all should do. If you can't afford proper parts to properly lower a vehicle, don't do it at all. My head hurts with all these people who try and cheap out and fabricate some ghetto-fabulous stuff which will either:

a) Hurt performance
b) Look like ****
c) Hurt them one way or another by destroying it</TD></TR></TABLE>

your a fool.. hondatech maybe not now but before it was based on ghetto stuff.. now ricers like you talk the **** to just yourself from buying **** you can probably do yourself.. if u would take the time and read it was corrected a bit and who is going to look at my suspension&gt;

b-powa

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AzntaggeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, i kinda get what he's trying to say. i wouldn't try it though, because what if you have to re-adjust your camber in the front? not to mention if you cut and fill in that portion of the car it probably brings down the integrity of the shock towers. seems like more trouble then it's worth.</TD></TR></TABLE>

it has nothing to do with the shock tower.. i dont recommend this to everybody but i am glad i took the time to do it..

as for its integrity how many times have tou heard of skunk 2 and other kits comming loose on the track etc..

by the way this is for a eg hatch with itr suspension all around in 96 or 97 whatever 4 lug.. and my car does not look ghetto whatsoever..

i know alot of people would not dare to do this that is why i asked.. i wish i had a camera to show the steps..

DiRT!

pics help

dpw41285

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dpw41285 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My brain is hurting trying to understand what this guy did to make his upper control arm weaker. If you cant afford to do sometihng right dont do it at all. I guess you should have never lowered the car</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Because they'll let Mechanical Engineers do all the PRECISE fabrication and fitment which is what we all should do. If you can't afford proper parts to properly lower a vehicle, don't do it at all. My head hurts with all these people who try and cheap out and fabricate some ghetto-fabulous stuff which will either:

a) Hurt performance
b) Look like ****
c) Hurt them one way or another by destroying it</TD></TR></TABLE>
exaclty

b-powa

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So I'm a fool for trusting myself...a studying Mechanical Engineer. We make quality products, we make PRECISION products, and we don't re-drill exisiting **** that can effect EVERY dimension that took thousands of hours to correct only to destroy it by doing a dipshit move like that. If we can all re-drill everything, we wouldn't have aftermarket products and we wouldn't have all these Mechanical Engineers working for these companies creating QUALITY products. But, let's see how long it lasts...when something is way off dimension, post back. Until then, to each their own. </TD></TR></TABLE>

what u want? a cookie for studying engeneering. hahah. u want to floss ur career goals, go somewhere else.. i am sure people who fabricate for a living would **** on u. ive read some of ur post like how to flush antifreeze and fuel filter.. not to mention u telling the whole world about being a mech. student..lmfo.. sorry ur not a fool ur an idiot.

i dont **** on ur car so dont **** on mines.. if u would read i stated many times this is not meant for everyone. maybe u should take somemore english classes also..

as for the guy above; why wast my time so turds like ^^ can hake themselves feel smarter.
you dont like the idea i put out simply buy a kit.. no one is stopping u.,


Modified by b-powa at 2:17 AM 3/23/2004

CivicFerioSiR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WalkingKenshin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">umm.. by far the WORST write up ever for a diy. Dood, relabel your topic

blahhh blah blah blah blahh
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i fully understood him, maybe you just dont have enough experience with honda suspention to know what hes talking about.

s520player

just read what he wrote. Any dumbass can figure it out. It is smart. just drill longer slots so the stock arms can pivot out to correct the camber. Nice thinking I might try this.

not you

why you guys so mad at camber anyway?
all camber haters should be sentenced to stock height.