DIY D-Series valve lash adjustment BIG PICTURES!
07-13-2003, 02:03 PM
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DIY D-Series valve lash adjustment BIG PICTURES!
This was performed on a 95 cx with 122xxx miles on it.It only has 8 valves, so this didn't take too much time.
TOOLS NEEDED: 10mm box wrench, feeler guage, flat head screwdriver, 17mm socket, ratchet with extension, lug wrench, and a torque wrench. Make sure the engine has been sitting for atleast 3 hours after the last time you drove it. I must be cold! Overnight cold is the best.
You'll need to set the E-brake, block the rear tires, put the car in neutral, and take off the drivers side tire. Jack the car up first and leave it up. Put it on a jackstand to be safe.
Undo the hose that goes to the valve cover and take off the four bolts that hold the valve cover off. The valve cover should come right off. Now remove the 2 bolts that hold on the timing belt cover. Remove the timing belt cover. Your car should look like this.
The hose to take off the valve cover is under the plug wires. It connects to the real black tip of the hard line next to it.
With the timing belt cover off, you should see this.
To adjust the valves: Get a good manual first. It'll provide torque specs and help out in other jobs too. Refer to the sticker under the hood of your car. It'll be the sticker for the motor that came in the car, so if you swapped, find the right valve lash settings. Use the 17mm socket set up with the extension to turn the crank pulley bolt counter clockwise until the cam gear is at top dead center. There will be a groove on the gear that lines up with the tooth on the plastic under the gear. see above picture.
Once there, start at the number 1 cylinder and loosen the lock nut around the flat head screw. Insert the feeler guage of the proper size between the top of the valve stem and the bottom of the adjusting screw. Tighten the adjusting screw until it just grabs the feeler guage. Hold that position with the screwdriver and snug the lock nut with the box wrench. Double check the valve clearence. The lock nut is ready to be torqued down to the proper tightness for your motor. Now triple check your valve clearence.
Now move from valve to valve until the number 1 cylinder is done. Check clearences for the fourth time.
Turn the CRANK pulley 180 degrees and work on cylinder number 3. Another 180 is cylinder 4 and the final 180 is cylinder number 2. Every 180 degrees on the crank pulley = 90 degrees on the cam gear. To check that you are on the right cylinder, the rotor on the distributor should point to the plug wire of the cylinder you are working on. Don't forget to torque to the proper specs, and double check your work.
I'm finished!
Reverse the procedure of the valve cover removal to reinstall it. Torque down the valve cover bolts in an "X" pattern (just like lug nuts
) and be careful not to over tighten the bolts! they are fragile. I got away without needing a new valve cover gasket or sealant.
I'm not responsible if you **** up your car. This is a guide, not the bible. Use this as a suplement to a good manual or to guage how big of a job it is. If anyone can correct my information, or add to it, that would be greatly appreciated. This was my first time doing valves and I still have much to learn. If anyone has valve lash specs for various d-series motors, please post them with the engine code. Thanks and good luck!
TOOLS NEEDED: 10mm box wrench, feeler guage, flat head screwdriver, 17mm socket, ratchet with extension, lug wrench, and a torque wrench. Make sure the engine has been sitting for atleast 3 hours after the last time you drove it. I must be cold! Overnight cold is the best.
You'll need to set the E-brake, block the rear tires, put the car in neutral, and take off the drivers side tire. Jack the car up first and leave it up. Put it on a jackstand to be safe.
Undo the hose that goes to the valve cover and take off the four bolts that hold the valve cover off. The valve cover should come right off. Now remove the 2 bolts that hold on the timing belt cover. Remove the timing belt cover. Your car should look like this.
The hose to take off the valve cover is under the plug wires. It connects to the real black tip of the hard line next to it.
With the timing belt cover off, you should see this.
To adjust the valves: Get a good manual first. It'll provide torque specs and help out in other jobs too. Refer to the sticker under the hood of your car. It'll be the sticker for the motor that came in the car, so if you swapped, find the right valve lash settings. Use the 17mm socket set up with the extension to turn the crank pulley bolt counter clockwise until the cam gear is at top dead center. There will be a groove on the gear that lines up with the tooth on the plastic under the gear. see above picture.
Once there, start at the number 1 cylinder and loosen the lock nut around the flat head screw. Insert the feeler guage of the proper size between the top of the valve stem and the bottom of the adjusting screw. Tighten the adjusting screw until it just grabs the feeler guage. Hold that position with the screwdriver and snug the lock nut with the box wrench. Double check the valve clearence. The lock nut is ready to be torqued down to the proper tightness for your motor. Now triple check your valve clearence.
Now move from valve to valve until the number 1 cylinder is done. Check clearences for the fourth time.
Turn the CRANK pulley 180 degrees and work on cylinder number 3. Another 180 is cylinder 4 and the final 180 is cylinder number 2. Every 180 degrees on the crank pulley = 90 degrees on the cam gear. To check that you are on the right cylinder, the rotor on the distributor should point to the plug wire of the cylinder you are working on. Don't forget to torque to the proper specs, and double check your work.
I'm finished!
Reverse the procedure of the valve cover removal to reinstall it. Torque down the valve cover bolts in an "X" pattern (just like lug nuts
) and be careful not to over tighten the bolts! they are fragile. I got away without needing a new valve cover gasket or sealant. I'm not responsible if you **** up your car. This is a guide, not the bible. Use this as a suplement to a good manual or to guage how big of a job it is. If anyone can correct my information, or add to it, that would be greatly appreciated. This was my first time doing valves and I still have much to learn. If anyone has valve lash specs for various d-series motors, please post them with the engine code. Thanks and good luck!
07-13-2003, 02:44 PM
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Re: DIY D-Series valve lash adjustment BIG PICTURES! (civicmatt)
Good post. I was actually going to do this today because of this annoying clicking sound I get. I am pretty sure it's the injectors though because the clicking noise increases the higher the rpm's are. But it won't hurt to do the valve adjustment anyways considering it's way overdue for one. Good post. 
07-13-2003, 05:29 PM
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Re: DIY D-Series valve lash adjustment BIG PICTURES! (Eee Pee)
just did mine today (92 cx) mine were loose as hell... now car runs smooth as hell..... if i can remember correct in 0.20 out 0.25... tighter better..not to tight
07-13-2003, 07:46 PM
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Re: DIY D-Series valve lash adjustment BIG PICTURES! (Eee Pee)
I was going to run a hair tighter for power reasons, but then I thought how much can you help 70hp? I decided to stay on the safe side and not risk burning a valve. If you **** up just one valve in an 8 valve motor, that means the whole cylinder shuts down! Think about it.
I can say that power is the same or maybe alittle peppier. My motor is a lot quieter when I take it to redline. I don't hear any valve noise anymore!
I can say that power is the same or maybe alittle peppier. My motor is a lot quieter when I take it to redline. I don't hear any valve noise anymore!
07-13-2003, 07:49 PM
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Re: DIY D-Series valve lash adjustment BIG PICTURES! (civicmatt)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicmatt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> but then I thought how much can you help 70hp? I decided to stay on the safe side</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's a good choice.
to a good Tech post. (Honda-Tech, includes Tech? Yes it does...)
That's a good choice.
to a good Tech post. (Honda-Tech, includes Tech? Yes it does...)
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01-09-2004, 11:04 PM
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Re: DIY D-Series valve lash adjustment BIG PICTURES! (eg6turbo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg6turbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u can shortcut it it by doing the 1 and 4 and 2 and 3 at the same time...good info tho</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bringin this post back from the dead.
I just wanna know if eg6turbo is correct. Anybody second that?
Bringin this post back from the dead.
I just wanna know if eg6turbo is correct. Anybody second that?
03-13-2004, 09:35 AM
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Re: DIY D-Series valve lash adjustment BIG PICTURES! (AlphaQup)
bringing this back from the dead...
so is eg6turbo correct? saves a couple steps.
and also, to do a valve adjustment on a d series, basically all you need is:?
feeler gauge
screwdriver
wrench
so is eg6turbo correct? saves a couple steps.
and also, to do a valve adjustment on a d series, basically all you need is:?
feeler gauge
screwdriver
wrench
03-13-2004, 09:59 AM
#13
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Re: DIY D-Series valve lash adjustment BIG PICTURES! (AlphaQup)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AlphaQup »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Bringin this post back from the dead.
I just wanna know if eg6turbo is correct. Anybody second that?</TD></TR></TABLE>
in a way, yes, if you have the engine perfectly at TDC for those pistons....but it's not as accurate.
Ideally, you want the cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke, so that both valves are nowhere near opening and the chance of the rocker sitting close to the valve isn't going to happen. Take the extra 5 minutes and rotate the crank 90 degrees and do the rest.
And instead of pulling off the distributor cap to see where the rotor points, simply rotate the engine so the cam rotates 90 degrees- look at the "UP" indicator, and it will move 90 degrees for the next cylinder to fire.
at TDC UP arrow UP, cylinder 1
UP arrow at "9 o clock position", cylinder 3
UP arrow at 6 o clock position, cylinder 4
UP arrow at 3 o clock position, cylinder 2.
Before starting on the cylinder, rock the rockers and make sure all 2 or 4(depending on head) have slack in them...this reassures it's at TDC also.
good how to
Bringin this post back from the dead.
I just wanna know if eg6turbo is correct. Anybody second that?</TD></TR></TABLE>
in a way, yes, if you have the engine perfectly at TDC for those pistons....but it's not as accurate.
Ideally, you want the cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke, so that both valves are nowhere near opening and the chance of the rocker sitting close to the valve isn't going to happen. Take the extra 5 minutes and rotate the crank 90 degrees and do the rest.
And instead of pulling off the distributor cap to see where the rotor points, simply rotate the engine so the cam rotates 90 degrees- look at the "UP" indicator, and it will move 90 degrees for the next cylinder to fire.
at TDC UP arrow UP, cylinder 1
UP arrow at "9 o clock position", cylinder 3
UP arrow at 6 o clock position, cylinder 4
UP arrow at 3 o clock position, cylinder 2.
Before starting on the cylinder, rock the rockers and make sure all 2 or 4(depending on head) have slack in them...this reassures it's at TDC also.
good how to
03-13-2004, 11:17 AM
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Re: (Dimi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think I need to do this also. Have a little valve ticking...but damn. Kinda scared to mess with that ****. But I guess you gotta learn somehow.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea me too. hopefully it'll go well.
yea me too. hopefully it'll go well.
03-14-2004, 09:46 PM
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Re: (civicnar)
perfect time to see this thread again- im installing a cam tomorrow and will be needing to reset the valve lash. to a good write up and technical thread
to a good write up and technical thread
03-19-2004, 04:36 PM
#19
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Re: DIY D-Series valve lash adjustment BIG PICTURES! (eg6turbo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg6turbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u can shortcut it it by doing the 1 and 4 and 2 and 3 at the same time...good info tho</TD></TR></TABLE>
Correct.
As long as the flat side of the cam lob is opposite (or close to) of the lifter and the lifter has play, you can adjust it.
Correct.
As long as the flat side of the cam lob is opposite (or close to) of the lifter and the lifter has play, you can adjust it.
03-19-2004, 04:49 PM
#20
Solbros Owns Me
Re: DIY D-Series valve lash adjustment BIG PICTURES! (Spade)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spade »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Correct.
As long as the flat side of the cam lob is opposite (or close to) of the lifter and the lifter has play, you can adjust it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
no you can't...you need to do it on the compression stroke so the lobe is nowhere near the rocker....but hey, it's not my engine.
And yes, I've done before and ended up re doing a month later
Correct.
As long as the flat side of the cam lob is opposite (or close to) of the lifter and the lifter has play, you can adjust it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
no you can't...you need to do it on the compression stroke so the lobe is nowhere near the rocker....but hey, it's not my engine.
And yes, I've done before and ended up re doing a month later
03-19-2004, 04:53 PM
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Re: DIY D-Series valve lash adjustment BIG PICTURES! (Emerika)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Emerika »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
no you can't...you need to do it on the compression stroke so the lobe is nowhere near the rocker....but hey, it's not my engine.
And yes, I've done before and ended up re doing a month later</TD></TR></TABLE>
no you can't...you need to do it on the compression stroke so the lobe is nowhere near the rocker....but hey, it's not my engine.
And yes, I've done before and ended up re doing a month later
</TD></TR></TABLE>
04-01-2004, 05:00 PM
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Re: DIY D-Series valve lash adjustment BIG PICTURES! (Emerika)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Emerika »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And instead of pulling off the distributor cap to see where the rotor points, simply rotate the engine so the cam rotates 90 degrees- look at the "UP" indicator, and it will move 90 degrees for the next cylinder to fire.
at TDC UP arrow UP, cylinder 1
UP arrow at "9 o clock position", cylinder 3
UP arrow at 6 o clock position, cylinder 4
UP arrow at 3 o clock position, cylinder 2.
good how to</TD></TR></TABLE>
Where is this "TDC UP arrow"? Located on cam gear? Up arrow up meaning 12 o clock? Oh correct me if I'm wrong, cylinder#1 is closest to timing belt.
And instead of pulling off the distributor cap to see where the rotor points, simply rotate the engine so the cam rotates 90 degrees- look at the "UP" indicator, and it will move 90 degrees for the next cylinder to fire.
at TDC UP arrow UP, cylinder 1
UP arrow at "9 o clock position", cylinder 3
UP arrow at 6 o clock position, cylinder 4
UP arrow at 3 o clock position, cylinder 2.
good how to</TD></TR></TABLE>
Where is this "TDC UP arrow"? Located on cam gear? Up arrow up meaning 12 o clock? Oh correct me if I'm wrong, cylinder#1 is closest to timing belt.
04-06-2004, 06:47 AM
#24
Solbros Owns Me
Re: DIY D-Series valve lash adjustment BIG PICTURES! (Guam_CiviC619)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Guam_CiviC619 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Where is this "TDC UP arrow"? Located on cam gear? Up arrow up meaning 12 o clock? Oh correct me if I'm wrong, cylinder#1 is closest to timing belt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
on the cam gear, there is an "UP" indicator, and sometimes an arrow also. And yes, it should point to 12 o clock. This with the other indicators makes it easy to find TDC for the cam
Where is this "TDC UP arrow"? Located on cam gear? Up arrow up meaning 12 o clock? Oh correct me if I'm wrong, cylinder#1 is closest to timing belt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
on the cam gear, there is an "UP" indicator, and sometimes an arrow also. And yes, it should point to 12 o clock. This with the other indicators makes it easy to find TDC for the cam
04-06-2004, 07:08 AM
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Unceasing Measure
Re: DIY D-Series valve lash adjustment BIG PICTURES! (Emerika)
For every two thousands (0.002) beyond stock specs you get another degree of duration in your camshaft(s). Eee Pee stated that above, but there's the scientific conversion . It can be helpful to you autocrossers who run in stock classes and need every pound and pony you can muster, otherwise I'd suggest against it as it takes away from gas mileage and increases valvetrain wear (albeit slightly).
. It can be helpful to you autocrossers who run in stock classes and need every pound and pony you can muster, otherwise I'd suggest against it as it takes away from gas mileage and increases valvetrain wear (albeit slightly).