bromas203

Hello hello

I have discovered a Y tube with the two end parts loose, but plugged up. The beginning of the tube is joined to the tube running from the very right hole in the intake manifold to the littl canister on the the very right of the fuel rail, not sure what its called. I need help figuring out if these need to be connected or can be deleted.


I will post pictures when I come back from work at around 9est.

I'm running a d15b if that helps.

PunchedGuava

I'm assuming it connects to the charcoal canister? Those aren't needed really. It's more of an emissions gadget. Is your CEL on?

If I'm guessing right, it should be area D in the picture below..?

crazyhouse2011

Hey please tell me what each labeled area is.

PunchedGuava

^

A = Opening for A/C lines to enter cabin
B = Opening for coolant lines to enter cabin
C = Fuel filter
D = Charcoal canister
E = Brake booster vacuum line
F = (2) EGR valves (only found in D15Z1 / VX bays)
G = Fuel return line

From http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24248

bromas203

This is the tube in question. See the silver tube? Im talking about the tube coming out of the middle of it.


image hosting 5mb

Here is a pick of the ends.


upload a picture

@Punchedguava, My charcoal canister has tubes already connect to it. The previous owner had the car turbo'd so im not sure if these are just residual lines left around after he took it off?

bromas203

didnt realize when i took the pic but u can actually see the charcoal canister in the second picture upper right.

B_Swapped93

they look like they go to the charcoal canister. either plug them in or just leave them capped.

but try looking threw here https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...2483147&page=2

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

there shouldnt be a Tee in the FPR line

B_Swapped93

****, i just noticed the FPR^

OP get ride of the "T". It's supposed to go straight from the ITM to the FPR.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

Looks like this was a boosted engine or something used the line as a vac reference..


Is this a newly swapped in engine? Or was car bought like this recently?

Might have some internal injuries if it has a forced fed past.

bromas203

So i should remove the black tube intersecting the silver tube running from the IMF to the FPR?

I was told from a mechanic that the engine was turbo'd since the "oil pan is tapped", also has a catch can set up. I bought it with this swap 4 months ago, the owner told me the motor had 80k on it, chassis had 139k. After hearing that it used to be turbo'd ive deffinitly been worried about reliability issues, not knowing how the last owner drove it.

I've also just noticed a new grinding noise coming from the trans when im at full stop, But maybe i should start a new thread for that?

Allboost18b

I'd put a lot of money thats for your Vaccum log, someone split it from your Intake line that controls your vaccum to your fuel return valve.

You don;'t need a vac log if youre back to all motor. Take that T out.

Converting from turbo to all motor = stock exhaust, reverting the Basemap to stock in the ECU, Vaccum log deletion, plugging off the Oil pan tap, plugging off the oil line feed...

Check those major things as well...

The grinding noise could be a bad clutch throw out bearing... make sure the tranny was assembled right. if there's grinding something's not right.... may even be the stock clutch was too tight / fly wheel bolts arent tight enough/ loose pressure plate... Tons of things man.

bromas203

ok thanks, tube has been removed. I have been driving the car many many miles each day since im a delivery driver and it has not failed me once. would i have realized some major issues if most of the "converting back to N/A" was not done? the car runs really smooth engine wise, only thing that seems to be a little worn is the tranny.

Would not having a stock exhaust cause a loss of power/efficiency? Tips of my exhaust says apexi but it might just be the muffler?

kyden

what makes you think they didn't completely remove the turbo setup?

bromas203

it seems to me that they DID remove the whole turbo set up, set everything back to working N/a.