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Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) EG/EH/EJ/EK/EM1 Discussion

Direct Drop?

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Old 01-09-2004, 07:25 AM
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Default Direct Drop?

Would a GSR or ITR be a direct drop into my del Sol? (Mount Wise) I'm pretty sure I'll need a new mount kit. Just double checking.
Old 01-09-2004, 07:31 AM
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Basicaly yes. del Sols came with B16's and I think that basicly all B's mount in the same. Now the ECU is another story
Old 01-09-2004, 07:33 AM
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Default Re: (drkarrow)

Ok let me clarify this. I got the S trim del Sol. NOT the VTEC. I think it still might drop in though using the GSR/ITR mounts.
Old 01-09-2004, 07:39 AM
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Default Re: Direct Drop? (JSPECHB)

Please do a search, but this might help too:

Mounts:

For the timing cover side mount you will need to get the cast-iron bracket from any 1994-2001 Integra GS-R and also the aluminum mount as well. You can use the mount from a Del Sol VTEC as well, but not the 99-00 mount because it is totally different.

For the rear mount you will need to use a 1994-2001 Integra rear bracket. The actual rubber mount that bolts to the rear subframe can be the stock civic one. I used an Integra rear bracket on my fiancee's B16A2 swap in 1999, but the stock 99-00 one might work too.

The topside tranny mount can be the Del Sol one - it is the same thing.

The front mounting brackets need to be from an Integra 1994-2001, but if you want to keep A/C then get the A/C bracket for a Del Sol VTEC model. the actual mounts that bolt to the underside of the framerails need to be the stock Civic ones.

I would also insert the energy Suspension mount inserts while you've got the mounts out.

Wiring:

B18C5 engine wiring into a 1992-1995 Civic/Del Sol:

IMO the USDM ITR swap is easier to swap in. I've done this swap 3 times already and it is 100% easy especially if you run a re-chipped P28 and even more so if you have a 1992 Civic or any 1992-1995 Si, VX, or EX with VTEC wires.

Here's what you'd need too do if you have a USDM ITR swap:

KEEP the ITR engine harness. Regardless of what others say the plugs all plug right in. This way you get to keep the newer ITR distributor and injectors, and there is no need to rewire anything. Again this is from experience, not hearsay.

You'll have a few extra plugs left over on the ITR harness because the ITR has a few extras that our Civics don't have, like ABS, etc. You vcan just hide the extra plugs.

Now there's a few different ways to get an ECU to work, and I'll list them from easiest to hardest:

1. Re-chipped P28. This will simply plug in. No need to wire up for a knock sensor because the P28 doesn't read for one. Better fuel, timing, VTEC x-over, and rev limiter = more power. OBD1 so no need at all to run any sort of extra sensors.

2. Kenji OBD2 jumper harness and JDM P73 ECU. I ran this on my motor for a while before the kenji ECU. You'll have to wire up a knock sensor wire and that's about it. Drawbacks are that this ECU has a 113-115 speed limiter and it doesn't make the power that the kenji-spec P28 does. ThisECU has OBD2 type plugs but IT RUNS AN OBD1 PROGRAM AND IT IS ONLY OBD2 IN PLUGS!!! I ran this ECU with no extra o2 sensor, no crank fluctuation bullshit, etc.

3. Jumper harness with USDM P73 ECU. Why? I wouldn't do this unless I was in Cali and it was necessary for smog bullshit. You'd have to wire up all the extra OBD2 bullshit and the ECU sucks compared to a re-chipped P28.

So that's for the USDM motors, but what about the JDM ITR swaps?

As Apexi-ITR has said the JDM harness can be used. It requires some stretching but it will work. If you must get the factory look then get any OBD2 type engine harness from any USDM B18C1 or B18C5 and then it will plug right in just like I said the USDM swap does.

As far as ECU stuff goes, really a P28 is the better choice again but you will need to add a VTEC oil pressure switch onto the JDM ITR motor because it doesn't have one and the P28 looks for one. Just pull an oil pressure switch from another VTEC motor - didn't you use a SOHC one Apexi-ITR?

Or you can run the jumper harness and O.E JDM P73 ECU. This will save you from having to add the oil pressure switch, but you'll have to add a knock sensor and this ECU still has the shitty speed limiter.

USDM ECU? But why?

That's about all I can think of right now. I run the kenji-spec P28 ECU in my 1992 CX hatchback and with this method and keeping the ITR engine harness I did not have to add one single wire at all! It was absolutely 100% plug and play!

Rough guide on how to swap the engine:

HereÂ’s how I see it:

YouÂ’re going to pay a shop to do the swap. This could be anywhere from $500-$1,200 in labor. I work at a shop and there are some people that NEED to pay us to do the work, but if you have confidence and some common sense I promise you can do it.

Rather than pay for labor, you could use some of that cash to but a really nice toolset and a nice hydro jack too. Rent an engine hoist and possibly airtools and compressor and you're done a LOT cheaper than paying a shop - you KEEP the handtools and jack too!

I recommend any toolset like Craftsmen or Husky, whatever. Get the really nice “Mechanics’ Toolset” even if it costs a few hundred dollars. Remember, you KEEP these tools forever and they will help you countless times. I got a 250 pc. Craftsman set with a toolbox for lie $250.00 I think. Also remember METRIC

Get a hydro jack too - $100 sounds about right?

There are other tools that you will need too in order to swap successfully. IÂ’ll TRY my best to list them - IÂ’m sure you guys can add some more.

32mm socket for axle nuts
Prybar for axles and various deeds
Punchset for getting that damned shift linkage pin out
Nice sturdy hammer (obvious reasons, right?)
Dykes (donÂ’t laugh - the wire-cutter things guys)
Cotter Pins (not a tool really)
Soldering iron for securing wiring

And fluids too:

However much motor oil your motor takes (usually 4.25, right?)
Tranny fluid of your choice (I prefer Honda MTF 3 qts. - really takes about 2.5)
Coolant
P/S fluid if applicable

So the labor part - not really in too much particular order for the first group of steps:

1. Drain coolant and tranny fluid You can pull the radiator out too to have more room

Disconnect all that would keep the engine from coming out:

2. All plugs on the engine harness that plug into the chassis harness
3. All hoses that connect as well. Upper and Lower radiator hoses, fuel lines, etc.
4. Header from exhaust
5. Shift linkage
A. To get that damned linkage pin, try this:
B. Pull the boot back from the shifter where it connects to the tranny. The boost exposes a clip that can be removed with a flathead screwdriver or your fingers. Then youÂ’ll see the infamous linkage pin exposed. This is where youÂ’ll need the right sized punch to get it out. It has to be small enough to slide in the shift rod, but big enough to push the pin out.
C. If you got pics of this bastard boot, please post them up!

6. Pull the axles out - how you ask? IÂ’ll post the detailed instructions as soon as I find my old post about that here.
A. Here's how to pull the axles:
Tools you'll need if doing a Civic or Integra:
19mm for the wheel
32mm big-*** socket and BIG rachet for it - to break off and tighten back up the axle nut
17mm wrench
17mm wrench again or rachet
Dykes
Hammer
Prybar
TRY to get the entire front of the vehicle off the ground so you can turn the wheels to make things easier.

1. Take the wheel off with the 19mm
2. Take the 32mm nut off the end of the axle
3. Take the dykes and pull the cotter pin out of the bottom 17mm castle nut on the lower balljoint
4. Take the 17mm and remove the castlenut from the lower balljoint
5. Take your big-*** hammer and whack right ON the lower control arm where the balljoint sits - this method for buting the balljoint out will not tear the balljoint boot like the "balljoint wedge" will
6. Take both 17mm and remove the thru-bolt that runs through the lower fork of the front stut - this will allow the axle to slide out when ready by pulling the strut fork to the side of the lower control arm
7. Pull the brake rotor out of the way - axle is ready to come out
8. Take the prybar and pry the axle by prying between the inner joint and the tranny housing

**CAUTION**

If it's a manual tranny you NEED to drain it if you're doing the PASSENGER side on a car with equal-length driveshafts - if it's a B-series this applies. Unequal length shafts will require yopu to ALWAYS drain the tranny.

Reassamble it how you disassembled it. Only then you need to stake the axle nut down by putting a dent in it and do'nt forget to replace the cotter pin in the lower balljoint castlenut!

7. Undo the front and rear motor mounts.
8. Secure the engine hoist - thereÂ’s a bracket on the tranny to hook the chain to, and a place on the back of the head that accepts a solid 14mm bolt to hook the chain to as well. This is a balnced way to hoist it up Others may have other options too
9. After securing the motor, undo the rest of the mounts and YANK THAT BITCH OUT!
10. As the We Todd Did crew would do, sit back and drink some beer

So, how do you put the new motor back in? Same as the old one came out, and on the 1992-1995 Civics use the CIVIC mounts except for the timing cover driversÂ’ mount. I suggest Energy inserts for the other mounts


Old 01-09-2004, 07:41 AM
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Default Re: Direct Drop? (B18C5-EH2)

Nuff said. Thanks B18C5-EH2.
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