Difficulty level for DIY Replacement of head gasket on D16z6
08-02-2008, 08:35 AM
#27
Re: (The Lobster)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Lobster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ummm takes me about 45 mins to change a head gasket....i have done alot
takes me about 5 hours to do a motor swap....
headgasekt = 3 on scale</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have done one and only one head gasket fixing and it took me about 3 hours, again setting the timing is what wasted alot of my time other than that there is not much to it.
takes me about 5 hours to do a motor swap....
headgasekt = 3 on scale</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have done one and only one head gasket fixing and it took me about 3 hours, again setting the timing is what wasted alot of my time other than that there is not much to it.
08-02-2008, 09:33 AM
#28
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Re: (philkehn)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philkehn »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dohc you have to remove the cams, sohc you dont.</TD></TR></TABLE>
sweet that should shave off an hour or so thanks
sweet that should shave off an hour or so thanks
08-02-2008, 05:25 PM
#30
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i see where people are saying about a used motor...
but with the used motor the hg could also go on that. bad bearings you never know.
oh ps i sold my y7 motor for 75bucks
but with the used motor the hg could also go on that. bad bearings you never know.
oh ps i sold my y7 motor for 75bucks
08-02-2008, 06:13 PM
#31
Re: (BrakeExpert)
Where at?? I need a motor I cant find one for less than 550 shipped<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrakeExpert »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would like to point out a D16Y7 engine can be had for roughly 300$, the whole thing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
08-02-2008, 06:54 PM
#32
Senior Member
Re: (B18C5-EH2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">an entire engine swap, believe it or not, is QUICKER and EASIER to do than a HG job.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I concur. I can't remember the last SOHC swap that took me more than 2 hours (unless I was drinking). I can't remember ever doing a head gasket in any comparable time as a proper job will require resurfacing the head.
I concur. I can't remember the last SOHC swap that took me more than 2 hours (unless I was drinking). I can't remember ever doing a head gasket in any comparable time as a proper job will require resurfacing the head.
08-03-2008, 07:44 AM
#33
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wow... uh having never done one on this particular engine ( but I have worked on cars for some 12 years) it took me about 5 hours start to finish. I will also say that was very much taking my time, and frequent breaks to come back inside to cool off and drink fluids as it was done outside in 90*+ weather with 80%+ humidity that we have here.
To be honest the most difficult part was the removal and install of the intake and all the coolant hoses. It cost me $100 or so for the head gasket set, and another $20 in oil filter, oil and coolant.
way far less than the $500 for a junkyard engine on unknown shape.
To be honest the most difficult part was the removal and install of the intake and all the coolant hoses. It cost me $100 or so for the head gasket set, and another $20 in oil filter, oil and coolant.
way far less than the $500 for a junkyard engine on unknown shape.
08-03-2008, 06:48 PM
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Re: Difficulty level for DIY Replacement of head gasket on D16z6 (95dxsir2)
for someone with good automotive knowledge and experience, it's not that hard, with the right tools.
my experience:
-d16z6 with 170,000 miles overheats one night on highway out of clear blue sky - by the time i realize it, it's too late.
-pull head, no major damage. replace headgasket with new oem.
-re-use (against better judgement) head bolts, strip three headstud holes in block.
-buy used timesert kit and repair holes.
-put head on, put timing belt on. timing belt not tight enough, timing belt jumps, bend several valves.
-buy used head, swap original intake manifold on, do timing belt correctly, car runs.
NOW i have the knowledge and experience, but it was a lengthy, costly lesson. are you prepared for that?
08-03-2008, 06:59 PM
#36
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Re: (94EG8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94EG8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yeah, thats what i used to think too. With a Z6 you at least have a chance at putting in a head gasket, people seem to do it on a regular basis and come out ok. However if you ever blow a head gasket in a D15B7 or a D15B8 just haul the engine out and start over, i personally know of 2 D15B7s that went through 5 head gaskets each, one of them was owned by a honda parts guy too, i think he put at least a couple of gaskets in at honda. I blew the head gasket in my first D15B7, replaced the head gasket, i ended up in even worse shape than before i started, gave up on that engine, bought a used D15B7 from a local junkyard put 6000kms on, i don't even think it got an oil change and blew the head gasket in that, pulled the head, fel-pro gasket, hmm. finally decided i had enough of that and dropped a JDM D15B vtec in and no problems since. Also had a friend with a D15B7 in his hatch, head gasket blew in that and we didn't even try, had yet another friend with a D15B7 in has hatch as well and you guessed it, blown headgasket, he sold it as is, told the guy it needed a headgasket. Now heres what i learned out of all this, it didn't seem to make any difference as to whether or not the head was planned, new headbolts didn't help, OEM vs fel-pro made no difference, updated torque specs didn't help. The only thing that did help was using a 3 layer steel head gasket in one of the engines i mentioned. As much as I hate to admit it i've come to the conclusion that once you blow the headgasket in a non-vtec obd1 D-series its pretty much a boat anchor. I think they OBD2 engines are a little better, they aren't in the TSB anyway, neither are the SOHC vtec engines. To the OP if your just building an engine you should be ok, if not you might be ok.</TD></TR></TABLE>
seriously, i mean i blew the head gasket in my d15b7, and it cost me like a whole $100 to replace it, and about 1 days worth of work. i mean, i could have spent about $1000 dollars more and got a swap, hell i could have gotten a D15b for only $700 more, or course then i need the ecu which is another $100 give or take 50, fortunately i don't need motor mounts for a d15b, so to keep it inexpensive we can't do the b16. man i wish i had spent an extra $900 to do a swap. Of course if i had $900 and the time to wait for a new engine and the time to put it in i'd have done that.
Yeah, thats what i used to think too. With a Z6 you at least have a chance at putting in a head gasket, people seem to do it on a regular basis and come out ok. However if you ever blow a head gasket in a D15B7 or a D15B8 just haul the engine out and start over, i personally know of 2 D15B7s that went through 5 head gaskets each, one of them was owned by a honda parts guy too, i think he put at least a couple of gaskets in at honda. I blew the head gasket in my first D15B7, replaced the head gasket, i ended up in even worse shape than before i started, gave up on that engine, bought a used D15B7 from a local junkyard put 6000kms on, i don't even think it got an oil change and blew the head gasket in that, pulled the head, fel-pro gasket, hmm. finally decided i had enough of that and dropped a JDM D15B vtec in and no problems since. Also had a friend with a D15B7 in his hatch, head gasket blew in that and we didn't even try, had yet another friend with a D15B7 in has hatch as well and you guessed it, blown headgasket, he sold it as is, told the guy it needed a headgasket. Now heres what i learned out of all this, it didn't seem to make any difference as to whether or not the head was planned, new headbolts didn't help, OEM vs fel-pro made no difference, updated torque specs didn't help. The only thing that did help was using a 3 layer steel head gasket in one of the engines i mentioned. As much as I hate to admit it i've come to the conclusion that once you blow the headgasket in a non-vtec obd1 D-series its pretty much a boat anchor. I think they OBD2 engines are a little better, they aren't in the TSB anyway, neither are the SOHC vtec engines. To the OP if your just building an engine you should be ok, if not you might be ok.</TD></TR></TABLE>
seriously, i mean i blew the head gasket in my d15b7, and it cost me like a whole $100 to replace it, and about 1 days worth of work. i mean, i could have spent about $1000 dollars more and got a swap, hell i could have gotten a D15b for only $700 more, or course then i need the ecu which is another $100 give or take 50, fortunately i don't need motor mounts for a d15b, so to keep it inexpensive we can't do the b16. man i wish i had spent an extra $900 to do a swap. Of course if i had $900 and the time to wait for a new engine and the time to put it in i'd have done that.
08-04-2008, 04:44 AM
#37
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Re: (austinkli)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by austinkli »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">seriously, i mean i blew the head gasket in my d15b7, and it cost me like a whole $100 to replace it, and about 1 days worth of work. i mean, i could have spent about $1000 dollars more and got a swap, hell i could have gotten a D15b for only $700 more, or course then i need the ecu which is another $100 give or take 50, fortunately i don't need motor mounts for a d15b, so to keep it inexpensive we can't do the b16. man i wish i had spent an extra $900 to do a swap. Of course if i had $900 and the time to wait for a new engine and the time to put it in i'd have done that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, but did it work? and I mean long term, like over a year later? And D15B vtecs aren't that much over here, i got mine for $683 shipped, no tranny, i picked up a P28 for $40 at a junkyard. and bought a new timing belt and water pump. took 4 days to get the engine and 1 to put it in.
Yeah, but did it work? and I mean long term, like over a year later? And D15B vtecs aren't that much over here, i got mine for $683 shipped, no tranny, i picked up a P28 for $40 at a junkyard. and bought a new timing belt and water pump. took 4 days to get the engine and 1 to put it in.
08-04-2008, 05:29 AM
#38
Former Moderator
Re: (94EG8)
Once again all I ask is:
POST UP THE RESULTS FROM THE HEAD GASKET REPLACEMENT WHEN YOU'RE DONE
I've seen a few fairly recent topics where guys asked the same question, and went with the HG job and ended up with problems. Smoking, leaks, etc. I'd also like to see how the engine is running 6 months from now too - is it using oil, etc.
Again I'm not saying an HG is impossible, but ideally the engine swap would be the better long term repair.
POST UP THE RESULTS FROM THE HEAD GASKET REPLACEMENT WHEN YOU'RE DONE
I've seen a few fairly recent topics where guys asked the same question, and went with the HG job and ended up with problems. Smoking, leaks, etc. I'd also like to see how the engine is running 6 months from now too - is it using oil, etc.
Again I'm not saying an HG is impossible, but ideally the engine swap would be the better long term repair.
08-04-2008, 05:55 AM
#39
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (94EG8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94EG8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yeah, but did it work? and I mean long term, like over a year later? And D15B vtecs aren't that much over here, i got mine for $683 shipped, no tranny, i picked up a P28 for $40 at a junkyard. and bought a new timing belt and water pump. took 4 days to get the engine and 1 to put it in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
eh, it'd probably take me 2 days to put it in. I wouldn't have had to get a new water pump. It's hard to find a p28 ecu in a salvage yard here, they don't have honda's with jdm motors, they just don't here in jax, kinda sucks. Oh yea, i forgot i'd have had to get the vtec wiring harness and what not as well for it.
Did what work long term? The head gasket? I mean, yea, why wouldn't it? It was a brand new one. Where did you get that d15b from? I was thinking about getting a low mileage one cause i got about 200,000 miles on mine now.
Yeah, but did it work? and I mean long term, like over a year later? And D15B vtecs aren't that much over here, i got mine for $683 shipped, no tranny, i picked up a P28 for $40 at a junkyard. and bought a new timing belt and water pump. took 4 days to get the engine and 1 to put it in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
eh, it'd probably take me 2 days to put it in. I wouldn't have had to get a new water pump. It's hard to find a p28 ecu in a salvage yard here, they don't have honda's with jdm motors, they just don't here in jax, kinda sucks. Oh yea, i forgot i'd have had to get the vtec wiring harness and what not as well for it.
Did what work long term? The head gasket? I mean, yea, why wouldn't it? It was a brand new one. Where did you get that d15b from? I was thinking about getting a low mileage one cause i got about 200,000 miles on mine now.
08-04-2008, 06:03 AM
#40
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (B18C5-EH2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Once again all I ask is:
POST UP THE RESULTS FROM THE HEAD GASKET REPLACEMENT WHEN YOU'RE DONE
I've seen a few fairly recent topics where guys asked the same question, and went with the HG job and ended up with problems. Smoking, leaks, etc. I'd also like to see how the engine is running 6 months from now too - is it using oil, etc.
Again I'm not saying an HG is impossible, but ideally the engine swap would be the better long term repair.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not if you do it right or if that was the original problem. If the HG is blown, and you replace it, that's that. simple as, if a spark plug is bad, and you replace it, it's fixed. Only problem is that too often it's not the HG. many times it's actually the head itself being warped. Now you need to get it shaved (which can generally be done twice to a head depending on how bad the warp is) which will cost a little more. on a 16 valve that usually runs anywhere from $150 to $200. The shop around here only charges me $80, but that's because I'm a commited customer, lol, i even got a christmas card from them.
Anyway, for your result, I replaced my HG about a year ago, haven't had a single problem what so ever. No smoking or leaks of any kind.
It's hard to say ideally an engine swap would be better. who is to say the HG isn't bad on that engine,or that the new engine won't burn oil, or that perhaps something else is bad on the new engine? I personally would rather have a newer, better engine. but that doesn't mean it's really the smarter idea.
POST UP THE RESULTS FROM THE HEAD GASKET REPLACEMENT WHEN YOU'RE DONE
I've seen a few fairly recent topics where guys asked the same question, and went with the HG job and ended up with problems. Smoking, leaks, etc. I'd also like to see how the engine is running 6 months from now too - is it using oil, etc.
Again I'm not saying an HG is impossible, but ideally the engine swap would be the better long term repair.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not if you do it right or if that was the original problem. If the HG is blown, and you replace it, that's that. simple as, if a spark plug is bad, and you replace it, it's fixed. Only problem is that too often it's not the HG. many times it's actually the head itself being warped. Now you need to get it shaved (which can generally be done twice to a head depending on how bad the warp is) which will cost a little more. on a 16 valve that usually runs anywhere from $150 to $200. The shop around here only charges me $80, but that's because I'm a commited customer, lol, i even got a christmas card from them.
Anyway, for your result, I replaced my HG about a year ago, haven't had a single problem what so ever. No smoking or leaks of any kind.
It's hard to say ideally an engine swap would be better. who is to say the HG isn't bad on that engine,or that the new engine won't burn oil, or that perhaps something else is bad on the new engine? I personally would rather have a newer, better engine. but that doesn't mean it's really the smarter idea.
08-04-2008, 06:22 AM
#41
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Dont replace the engine. My beater had 206k miles when I had it, and I replaced headgaskets and other external components and the car now has 300k miles and still pulls 102 compr across the board.
Furthermore, my built D16Z6 in my hatch blew a headgasket when we pushed it too hard on the AutoX track. Replaced it and everything is fine, now granted it has a built bottom end and head, but still I didnt need to put everything in a NEW motor to bring it back.
Furthermore, my built D16Z6 in my hatch blew a headgasket when we pushed it too hard on the AutoX track. Replaced it and everything is fine, now granted it has a built bottom end and head, but still I didnt need to put everything in a NEW motor to bring it back.
08-04-2008, 06:44 AM
#42
Former Moderator
Re: (austinkli)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by austinkli »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Not if you do it right or if that was the original problem. If the HG is blown, and you replace it, that's that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well you understand that the head gasket doesn't just pop. It goes due to excessive heat/overheating which causes the head's deck syrface to warp, and quite possibly the block too. It's very difficult to access the extent of the damages, and different people drive their cars for different amounts of time while it's overheating.
You had success, and that's awesome. You probably cought the issue as soon as it began overheating - many people don't. The same heat that warps the head deck also can very easily damage components in the bottom end too, such as rings, cylinder walls, etc. causing the ever common "smoking blue after head gasket install" that so many people post about.
Anyways we can go back and forth with anecdotal "evidence" about HG vs. engine swap. I've told my side - you've told yours.
To the OP I wish you luck in whatever you decide.
Not if you do it right or if that was the original problem. If the HG is blown, and you replace it, that's that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well you understand that the head gasket doesn't just pop. It goes due to excessive heat/overheating which causes the head's deck syrface to warp, and quite possibly the block too. It's very difficult to access the extent of the damages, and different people drive their cars for different amounts of time while it's overheating.
You had success, and that's awesome. You probably cought the issue as soon as it began overheating - many people don't. The same heat that warps the head deck also can very easily damage components in the bottom end too, such as rings, cylinder walls, etc. causing the ever common "smoking blue after head gasket install" that so many people post about.
Anyways we can go back and forth with anecdotal "evidence" about HG vs. engine swap. I've told my side - you've told yours.
To the OP I wish you luck in whatever you decide.
08-04-2008, 07:18 AM
#43
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Re: (austinkli)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by austinkli »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's hard to find a p28 ecu in a salvage yard here</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its hard to find P28s here too, i got kinda lucky on that, but it does happen.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by austinkli »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea, i forgot i'd have had to get the vtec wiring harness and what not as well for it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Most JDM engines come with a cut engine harness. What i generally do it take the vtec wiring out, take the loom off my engine harness and cut the vtec wiring the right length, usually the wires are cut at the ends so you will need to add the pins for shock tower plugs, i take these from another plug and solder them on, put everything back in the loom and tape it up. For the other side of the shock tower plug i get the 2 wires for vtec from a junked '92 civic, any model, they all had vtec prewired to the shock tower, again, remove loom from harness, add wires, put the loom back on and tape up. There are easier methods of wiring vtec, I just like my stuff to look as OEM as possible.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by austinkli »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where did you get that d15b from? I was thinking about getting a low mileage one cause i got about 200,000 miles on mine now.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I got mine from a place called sunrise JDM motors in montreal quebec, in eastern canada just about everything JDM comes from montreal, they have a ton importers all clustered together.
Its hard to find P28s here too, i got kinda lucky on that, but it does happen.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by austinkli »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea, i forgot i'd have had to get the vtec wiring harness and what not as well for it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Most JDM engines come with a cut engine harness. What i generally do it take the vtec wiring out, take the loom off my engine harness and cut the vtec wiring the right length, usually the wires are cut at the ends so you will need to add the pins for shock tower plugs, i take these from another plug and solder them on, put everything back in the loom and tape it up. For the other side of the shock tower plug i get the 2 wires for vtec from a junked '92 civic, any model, they all had vtec prewired to the shock tower, again, remove loom from harness, add wires, put the loom back on and tape up. There are easier methods of wiring vtec, I just like my stuff to look as OEM as possible.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by austinkli »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where did you get that d15b from? I was thinking about getting a low mileage one cause i got about 200,000 miles on mine now.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I got mine from a place called sunrise JDM motors in montreal quebec, in eastern canada just about everything JDM comes from montreal, they have a ton importers all clustered together.
08-04-2008, 07:57 AM
#44
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (94EG8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94EG8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Its hard to find P28s here too, i got kinda lucky on that, but it does happen.
Most JDM engines come with a cut engine harness. What i generally do it take the vtec wiring out, take the loom off my engine harness and cut the vtec wiring the right length, usually the wires are cut at the ends so you will need to add the pins for shock tower plugs, i take these from another plug and solder them on, put everything back in the loom and tape it up. For the other side of the shock tower plug i get the 2 wires for vtec from a junked '92 civic, any model, they all had vtec prewired to the shock tower, again, remove loom from harness, add wires, put the loom back on and tape up. There are easier methods of wiring vtec, I just like my stuff to look as OEM as possible.
I got mine from a place called sunrise JDM motors in montreal quebec, in eastern canada just about everything JDM comes from montreal, they have a ton importers all clustered together.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the info. In helping the op i learned a little here.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well you understand that the head gasket doesn't just pop. It goes due to excessive heat/overheating which causes the head's deck syrface to warp, and quite possibly the block too. It's very difficult to access the extent of the damages, and different people drive their cars for different amounts of time while it's overheating.
You had success, and that's awesome. You probably cought the issue as soon as it began overheating - many people don't. The same heat that warps the head deck also can very easily damage components in the bottom end too, such as rings, cylinder walls, etc. causing the ever common "smoking blue after head gasket install" that so many people post about.
Anyways we can go back and forth with anecdotal "evidence" about HG vs. engine swap. I've told my side - you've told yours.
To the OP I wish you luck in whatever you decide.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Very true. I have gone through 4 head gaskets, 2 in my celica, 2 in my civic. The first in my civic needed replaced do to bad radiator, a water pump that i can't believe even still spun, and the previous owner driving like that all the time. About 4 months after that replacement though, a hose busted, and coolant gushed out below the motor so it didn't hit a surface and burn up, i had no idea my car was overheating as the temp gauge was broken until i finally felt it. (when you've had the experience once, you never forget what it feels like) I thought, oh ****, and immediately pulled over. I caught it almost immediately, still took the head to a machine shop, but they told me it was fine, didn't warp it enough to make a difference, so i replaced the gasket, put it back together, a presto, I had a running car again. I looked back at my records, that happened 9 months ago. Still runnin strong.
But yes, you are right, a HG doesn't just blow on it's own. When you're on a small small budget like me though, sometimes it doesn't matter if a swap is more worth while, you just have to spend as little money as possible.
Its hard to find P28s here too, i got kinda lucky on that, but it does happen.
Most JDM engines come with a cut engine harness. What i generally do it take the vtec wiring out, take the loom off my engine harness and cut the vtec wiring the right length, usually the wires are cut at the ends so you will need to add the pins for shock tower plugs, i take these from another plug and solder them on, put everything back in the loom and tape it up. For the other side of the shock tower plug i get the 2 wires for vtec from a junked '92 civic, any model, they all had vtec prewired to the shock tower, again, remove loom from harness, add wires, put the loom back on and tape up. There are easier methods of wiring vtec, I just like my stuff to look as OEM as possible.
I got mine from a place called sunrise JDM motors in montreal quebec, in eastern canada just about everything JDM comes from montreal, they have a ton importers all clustered together.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the info. In helping the op i learned a little here.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well you understand that the head gasket doesn't just pop. It goes due to excessive heat/overheating which causes the head's deck syrface to warp, and quite possibly the block too. It's very difficult to access the extent of the damages, and different people drive their cars for different amounts of time while it's overheating.
You had success, and that's awesome. You probably cought the issue as soon as it began overheating - many people don't. The same heat that warps the head deck also can very easily damage components in the bottom end too, such as rings, cylinder walls, etc. causing the ever common "smoking blue after head gasket install" that so many people post about.
Anyways we can go back and forth with anecdotal "evidence" about HG vs. engine swap. I've told my side - you've told yours.
To the OP I wish you luck in whatever you decide.
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Very true. I have gone through 4 head gaskets, 2 in my celica, 2 in my civic. The first in my civic needed replaced do to bad radiator, a water pump that i can't believe even still spun, and the previous owner driving like that all the time. About 4 months after that replacement though, a hose busted, and coolant gushed out below the motor so it didn't hit a surface and burn up, i had no idea my car was overheating as the temp gauge was broken until i finally felt it. (when you've had the experience once, you never forget what it feels like) I thought, oh ****, and immediately pulled over. I caught it almost immediately, still took the head to a machine shop, but they told me it was fine, didn't warp it enough to make a difference, so i replaced the gasket, put it back together, a presto, I had a running car again. I looked back at my records, that happened 9 months ago. Still runnin strong.
But yes, you are right, a HG doesn't just blow on it's own. When you're on a small small budget like me though, sometimes it doesn't matter if a swap is more worth while, you just have to spend as little money as possible.
08-05-2008, 11:03 AM
#45
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$2049.25 thats all I have to say.!! Im still driving a 102 hp d15b7 praying that it dosen't blow up a 4th time. The head gasket blew 2 times in four months, and it now eats oil! And this is after the oil leaks that were fixed....again 2 g's. Not to mention I almost went to jail for going ape sh*t on the mechanic!!! Just bye a new engine...unless of course you are confident enough to rebuild the whole motor, which in my opinion is pointless unless your gonna boost it!!! I just picked up a whole z6 swap for 200 bucks, in great condition...the only reason he took the engine out is because he bought a b16. So imagine what I could have done with the 1800, oh not to mention it comes with an ex tranny, and ecu...... DON"T BECOME A D SERIES VICTIM, IM SOOO BITTER LMAO
Modified by Chaveli at 2:09 PM 8/5/2008
Modified by Chaveli at 2:09 PM 8/5/2008
08-09-2008, 09:41 AM
#46
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Re: (Chaveli)
when i was fixing mine, i replaced everything that could have caused the overheat (water pump, tstat, radiator cause it had a crack anyway, etc) incl the headgasket. when i finally got it all right, ran like a champ, 170+ compression on all four cylinders, on a 180,000 mile original block.
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