Did search need help not your basic "car won't start" thread.
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Did search need help not your basic "car won't start" thread.
On Wednesday night my car was running fine, but on Thursday it wouldn't start. Come to find out that it is a spark problem. I've read every thread for "no spark-car won't start" and I've tried everything I found in those threads and now I am stumped. Here is what I have tried so far: Checked all fuses-they are good, checked all grounds I know of (negative battery terminal, tranny to body, thermostat and valve cover- did I miss any ?) all of those are good, tried two different distributors and three different ignitors (two of which are known to be working), switched ecu's and tested the tolerences inside the distributor and everything is fine but still no spark. If anybody has any other ideas feel free to let me know. I also know that it is getting fuel and it cranks and the timing belt is not broken. HELP! Thanks in advance.
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Re: Did search need help not your basic "car won't start" thread. (Archidictus)
No the main relay is fine it clicks when the ignition is on and the fuel pump primes. Thanks though. Anyone else? Bump
#4
Re: Did search need help not your basic "car won't start" thread. (Dampachi_EH3)
are you getting fuel i had a similar problem and i just forgot to put this certain ground on the starter which was a pretty big deal beacause it was the computer ground lol fixed that and bam it fired up like bob marley at a pot festival
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Re: Did search need help not your basic "car won't start" thread. (Dampachi_EH3)
have you checkedto see if the distrib is getting voltage? do you have an alarm that has ignition kill? have you checked the cap to make sure that is ok
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yea guys I said in my origional post that I had checked all the tolerances in the distributor and that it IS getting power. I have also tried two other dizzys and it didn't make any difference. No alarm or anything, all stock.
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Okay just so every one knows I just replaced the main relay and all fuses relevant to the ignition and it still doesn't get any spark... STUMPED...
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So here's a recap of what I have replaced so far: Distributor (twice), ignitor (three times), coil (three times), all relevant fuses, main relay... still no spark but getting power in the distributor... bump!
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Re: (Dampachi_EH3)
I'm not asking you to acquire some voltage measurement....I am however asking you to check to see if there is even activity on this line...and no, the pulses will not be so short in duration that the meter won't catch 'something'....and thats all you need to see....is 'something'. If there was nothing there, you would never have spark.
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Try holding it full throttle while your cranking it
(You'll need another person to help you with this) Also, Try spraying starting fluid in the intake as your cranking it, if it starts and dies you have a problem with your injectors, or a clog somewhere in the lines (disconnect the fuel line from the rail and click your ignition to the on position fuel should shoot out).
Hope this helps...
Joel
(You'll need another person to help you with this) Also, Try spraying starting fluid in the intake as your cranking it, if it starts and dies you have a problem with your injectors, or a clog somewhere in the lines (disconnect the fuel line from the rail and click your ignition to the on position fuel should shoot out).
Hope this helps...
Joel
#16
Re: (Unsivil_audio)
unfortunately unsivil, fuel isn't his problem right now. plus by holding the throttle down, the computer will enter clear flood mode, delivering less fuel. he says he's having a spark problem. also, if your resistance is good, there is no need to check if it pulses because the meter sends a small pulse through, so you know if it's good or not just by checking the resistance and comparing it to spec.
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Re: (leftbehind33)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by leftbehind33 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also, if your resistance is good, there is no need to check if it pulses because the meter sends a small pulse through, so you know if it's good or not just by checking the resistance and comparing it to spec. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Say huh?
If your suggesting that the meter can somehow trigger the igniter into producing a spark, you're wrong.
Say huh?
If your suggesting that the meter can somehow trigger the igniter into producing a spark, you're wrong.
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Re: (2lua)
what triggers the time for the spark to be "sparked"?
I believe its a combo of a crank angle sensor / ECU. It might be something stupid that you over looked inthe igniton system. Also check your grounds. Take off the distro and work from there. Are you getting spark at all? If you are what color is it. Blue spark = good.
Just because your getting spark, dosent mean its getting it at the right time....
Edit: Check the condition of your cap and rotor...it may be both distros just had bad contacts. Clean them up with some contact cleaner if its still in good condition. If worn, get new stuff, its cheap enough
I believe its a combo of a crank angle sensor / ECU. It might be something stupid that you over looked inthe igniton system. Also check your grounds. Take off the distro and work from there. Are you getting spark at all? If you are what color is it. Blue spark = good.
Just because your getting spark, dosent mean its getting it at the right time....
Edit: Check the condition of your cap and rotor...it may be both distros just had bad contacts. Clean them up with some contact cleaner if its still in good condition. If worn, get new stuff, its cheap enough
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Re: (2lua)
Again a recap of what I have done:
I have changed the following:
Distributor- twice
Ignitor seperatly from the dizzy- three times
Coil seperately from the dizzy- three times
Main relay
All fuses
ECU
Note: ALL OF THE ABOVE PARTS WHERE TESTED ON ANOTHER VEHICLE, THEN IMMEDIATELY SWITCHED BACK TO MY CAR- THEREFORE I KNOW THAT THEY ARE GOOD.
Also, you guys have to remember that this happend all of a sudden, not gradually so it isn't going to be something like a bad rotor or cap. It must be somewhere electrical, but so far nothing has be found to make the car run.
Thank you guys all very much for your help so far, but I am still stumped. I am goiong to check the input to the ignitor while cranking the motor tonight and I will post up the results later.
I have changed the following:
Distributor- twice
Ignitor seperatly from the dizzy- three times
Coil seperately from the dizzy- three times
Main relay
All fuses
ECU
Note: ALL OF THE ABOVE PARTS WHERE TESTED ON ANOTHER VEHICLE, THEN IMMEDIATELY SWITCHED BACK TO MY CAR- THEREFORE I KNOW THAT THEY ARE GOOD.
Also, you guys have to remember that this happend all of a sudden, not gradually so it isn't going to be something like a bad rotor or cap. It must be somewhere electrical, but so far nothing has be found to make the car run.
Thank you guys all very much for your help so far, but I am still stumped. I am goiong to check the input to the ignitor while cranking the motor tonight and I will post up the results later.
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Re: (BLAME_canada)
i had a cap and rotor go bad in one shot...turned car off, then tryed to start it wouldnt start....check your cap man...
did you check your ecu fuse?
Edit: CHECK YOUR GROUNDS, IT MAY BE SOMETHING AS SIMPLE AS THAT!!
Modified by xerox445 at 2:50 AM 3/27/2004
did you check your ecu fuse?
Edit: CHECK YOUR GROUNDS, IT MAY BE SOMETHING AS SIMPLE AS THAT!!
Modified by xerox445 at 2:50 AM 3/27/2004
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Yea well all the stuff on my car worked fine on another car just moments before being re-installed on my car. Yea my ECU fuse is/was fine but I replaced it with a new one anyway. I have checked all my grounds that I know of so many times I'm getting sick of looking at them. Truly puzzled.