Did I just ruin the front knuckles (ball joint removal)
 

(97 Civic LX) While trying to undo the lower ball joints up front for axle removal, we kept hammering away at the knuckle section which the ball joint is pressed into, in hopes that the lower ball joint would pop up (out of the lower control arm).

Ok, so we kept hammering and hammering away at the knuckle and it finally came loose, BUT in the same process, the whole lower ball joint is loose inside the knuckle. In other words, the ball joint does not stay put in the knuckle.

I'm thinking we f-ed up the ball joint hole (ovalizing it?) and it will no longer hold the ball joint in place.

Any comments appreciated.

yep, sounds to me like you foobared it.

Re: (Relic1)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yep, sounds to me like you foobared it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

FUBAR = f*%ked up beyond all recognition

Re: (Relic1)
 

Explain how the ball joint is loose ... if you in fact "ovalized" the knuckle, then you would have to "ovalized" the ball joint as well.

Or are you saying that the ball joint threaded portion spins freely?

Or are you saying that you can remove the ball joint easily out of the knuckle?

Re: (maztur)
 

The ball joint can easily be removed from the knuckle...or let's just say they no longer need to be pressed in. I figure we totally mangled the knuckle hole by hammering so much on the edge of it.

Crap.

Re: (squeaky)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by squeaky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The ball joint can easily be removed from the knuckle...or let's just say they no longer need to be pressed in. I figure we totally mangled the knuckle hole by hammering so much on the edge of it.

Crap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn, that's ... amazing https://honda-tech.com/forums/images...s/emsmilep.gif

Next time hit the lca or use a pickle fork

Re: (maztur)
 

well if u used a hammer to hit the bottom of the lower ball joint in hopes that it would pop up...

you probably flattened it, making it unable for you to put the nut back on when its time for reassembly.

Re: (maztur)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by maztur &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Damn, that's ... amazing https://honda-tech.com/forums/images...s/emsmilep.gif

Next time hit the lca or use a pickle fork</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tru dat! Or even better, use a general purpose puller, in which a pickle fork can sometimes ruin the rubber seals. Oops! https://honda-tech.com/forums/images...s/emsmilep.gif It comes off amazingly easy w/o having to bang on anything. https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emwink.gif


Modified by TallAssFilipino at 12:25 PM 8/26/2004

Re: (maztur)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by maztur &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Or are you saying that the ball joint threaded portion spins freely?
</TD></TR></TABLE>


Isn't the threaded portion supposed to spin, at least a little? When doing mine, I had to stand on the brake while my friend tightened the castle nut due to the threaded part spinning...

Re: (YOUR MAMA)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YOUR MAMA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Isn't the threaded portion supposed to spin, at least a little? When doing mine, I had to stand on the brake while my friend tightened the castle nut due to the threaded part spinning...


</TD></TR></TABLE>

no , it is not supposed to spin , the ball joint is pressed in and is held in place by a snap ring , also after the ball joint is pressed in it acts like a morris taper , the angle of the portion just aboove the threads keeps it from moving , that is why m, you have to use a pickle fork or air hammer to pop it loose ,

but the best way to release the pressure i have found is to use a brass hammer , and tap lightly on the threaded portion with the castle nut still on about half way , to ensure you do not mushroom the nut ,

i would check to see if the snap ring is still in place because even if you ovalized the knuckle , the snap ring on the bottom should still keep the ball joint inplace ! https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif

use a 3 jaw gear puller next time...

Re: (bb4lude)
 

Dude i dont know... both threaded portions (on both sides) spun freely and i have been driving like that forever now....

Re: (bb4lude)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i would check to see if the snap ring is still in place because even if you ovalized the knuckle , the snap ring on the bottom should still keep the ball joint inplace ! https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif </TD></TR></TABLE>

In the pic below, I'm not seeing the snap ring you mentioned. #8 appears to be the ring for the ball joint boot, correct?

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...13S040_J07.gif

Re: (squeaky)
 

that is the ring for the boot but there should be a snap ring that goes on top of the boot , to prevent the ball joint from moving inside the knuckle, if there is not one there you have a problem ,

try going to your local auto parts store and looking at one in a box , you will see what i mean .. if you do not have this snap ring , YOU NEED ONE... other wise you will find the ball joint will move no matter....

i think that will solve your problem https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif

Re: (bb4lude)
 

im not even reading the rest of this.... next time use the right tools and things like this wont happen. a ball joint seperator is AT MOST 10 bucks.