bcivichb

I just recently had a B18C1 swapped into my 97 civic hb. Everytime I try to start the car it cranks and it stays running but I press the gas and it dies right after and the motor is shaking a lot. Has anyone had this problem or can anyone help me with this?

lumpbuzcut

is it throwing a code/CEL/Check Engine Light?

but sounds like a sensor or 2 is messed up, probably some of them on the Throttle body.

mericbe

I had this problem once.

I don't know how or why but we had 2 senors on the Intake manny clipped wrong.

We switched the 2 clips and all was fine

bcivichb

yeah the engine light is on. I got code 4 and 5. I checked them but all seems fine with the map sensor and the other is on the distributor but i really dont know how to check that one.

mericbe

Is it turning over? The dizzy could be 180 degrees out.

Just take off dizzy and flip the thing that revolves and bolt back up.

Sorry I noticed that it was running so it couldn't be 180 out. Did the dizzy come w/ the motor?

It sounds like it is the map sensor, cuz it seems the car is not getting any fuel.

bcivichb

Looks like its the ckp sensor. do i need to replace the distributor?

HmongEG

Check and make sure your ground wire on the transmission is connected...

becoming

OK, first off, it sounds like you put an OBD1 motor in your car because that CKP sensor is your crank positioning sensor that on your car from the factory, is supposed to located down on the crank, and on OBD1 cars the ecu reads crank position through the distributor! To fix it you will need a crank positioning sensor for your car{OBD2}, a crank sprocket from an OBD2 B-series motor, and an oil pump from a 1996 to 2001 GSR or Type-r so you can bolt the sensor to your motor, because the OBD1 oil pumps are different, and you will not be able to bolt it to them. And the reason you will need the crank sproket is because the "teeth" that the cps reads off of are not on the OBD1 sprokets.....GL.

bcivichb

Are you sure i would have to do that even though i converted everything to obd 1? The car is running fine except that when I drive it wont rev past 3000. Could it be something else

92-LS-Civic

if your not reving past 3 grand you would be in limp mode. if my memory is correct. just start going over you motor, particulary around the throttle body and intake mani, check for loose connections, loose vacume lines and **** like that. If that doesnt help, then you need to start checking voltage from different sensors. im not possitive about your problem i am just giving what i can.

LShatchie

In my past experiences if you have the distributor 180 degrees out, it just wont start at all... it sounds like you might have the 2 white plugs switched around, for the IAT sensor and for the iacv sensor

Sanda1s

Check all ground wires my friends b16 did the same ****

LShatchie

if its the ground wires, then it usually wont run at all

bcivichb

but im getting the ecu codes and its saying code 3,4,and 5. map sensor and ckp sensor. i fixed the map sensor problem but not the ckp sensor. could that be why its not reving past 3000 rpm?

becoming

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bcivichb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you sure i would have to do that even though i converted everything to obd 1? The car is running fine except that when I drive it wont rev past 3000. Could it be something else</TD></TR></TABLE>


Definately, because if the ECU does not know "where" the crank is, it sort-a ****'s on itself, and will go into limp mode. If you converted to an OBD-1 ECU, are you using an OBD-1 distributor? &lt; So your ECU will receive the signal for the crank position}

bcivichb

yeah im using an obd 1 distributor

bcivichb

also how do i fix the ckp sensor and check it?

b18ccivics

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by becoming &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK, first off, it sounds like you put an OBD1 motor in your car because that CKP sensor is your crank positioning sensor that on your car from the factory, is supposed to located down on the crank, and on OBD1 cars the ecu reads crank position through the distributor! To fix it you will need a crank positioning sensor for your car{OBD2}, a crank sprocket from an OBD2 B-series motor, and an oil pump from a 1996 to 2001 GSR or Type-r so you can bolt the sensor to your motor, because the OBD1 oil pumps are different, and you will not be able to bolt it to them. And the reason you will need the crank sproket is because the "teeth" that the cps reads off of are not on the OBD1 sprokets.....GL. </TD></TR></TABLE>


you are giving wrong information, on obd2 cars the sensor on the crank is the crank fluxuation sensor it is used by the computer to determine whick cylinder has a missfire and that is it. The distributor for obd2 still has the crank position sensor in it just like the obd1 distributors. You can run an obd1 dissy on and obd2 car (harness and ecu) but you have to depin the connector and change it over to the right one.

dmakarov

try switching map and tps plugs

BignevadaBoB

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dmakarov &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try switching map and tps plugs</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had the same problem. The car started, idled a bit rough and when I reved to 3 grand the car just died out. It took me a couple of day to finally figure out that my friend labeled the plugs wrong when taking out the old motor

DB1_559

yep its hads to be ur throttle bodies senors cuz mine did that to and check ur grounds

nstabl

hey B, any updates for us?

bcivichb

well its running but its still in limp mode. apparently the reason its stalling out is because the ecu isnt reading the iacv. after it warms up the car starts dying. and i dont know whats up w the ckp senor. any Suggestions?

nstabl

replace iacv?

_HANS

iTrader: (1)

i had the same problem. my dizzy was 180 degrees wrong