imlachg1

Someone help, I don't know whats going on. I have a 96 del sol, with a 2000 gsr motor in it. This past weekend I installed a zex kit. I have yet to run it with it yet, but I have it hooked up. I was driving t school today, and it won't rev past 2500 rpms? Whats the deal, does it maybe have something to do with the conection with the tps? I conected it to the middle one? Any ideas? I am unsure if I threw a code, cause I always have a code cause I only have my primary o2 in, but its been like that for like 8 months. Help me out. Thanks.

imlachg1

BUMP

Dr Honda

sounds like it's gone into limp mode. check you codes... then power down the ECU for a few minutes. then see if the codes clear.

DTSbmxKID

throw away the zex kit and get a turbo
If you shorted out the tps the sensor will make the ecu go into limp mode
your tps is vital.
unhook it and recheck your wiring diagrams for the proper wire.

imlachg1

It is my tps, I check it on my code reader, its says tps, low frequency i believe. What does that mean, do I need a new one, or i read someting about adjusting the one I have.

chronodyne28

ugh nitrous....when will people learn

imlachg1

I didn't even spray it, but now it is off. Anyways. . . Any ideas about the tps?

imlachg1

bump

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

So whatever you have did has caused it to do this...undo and put back whatever you have done and reset your ecu.

You can reset your ecu by pulling the negative battey cable for 5-10 minutes...ALSO you can just pull your ecu fuse located under the hood.

Before you reset the ecu you need to jump all of your codes off and then report back to us.

Heres you a link:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=682412


*also*

Search is Key!

imlachg1

Just so everyone knows here is the code that it is throwing P0122 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit Low Input

imlachg1

Ok, I put in my new iacv, and then I reset my ecu by clearing the codes then unhooking the battery. I turned then engine on after I reset my ecu and the tps code was gone. BUT, it is still acting very funny, very much the same way it did before, just not as bad, it stutters alot when I accelerate, and has a very low shitty idle. I now am throwing a cel p1509 which is Idle Air Control Valve circuit failure? What does that mean? Please any help would be great.

NonovUrbizniz

sounds like there's a loose conection on the IACV you just installed... I'd make sure the harness is fully plugged in and that all the prongs are not bent etc...

As for the stuttering problems...

Your tps is apparently bad... or mal-aligned... so it's giving off bad readings.. you car then runs improperly...

If you have a helms you can go through the testing procedure for it or you can just replace the tps... I'd check to make sure the TPS is attached properly first though... If you messed with it during the nitros install you may have just improperly re-installed it.

imlachg1

I was throwing an iacv code, and I replaced it, now it says iacv circuit failure? I have no clue what that means. But when my tps was throwing a code it said it was Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit Low Input, could that be from me splicing into the tps with my zex kit(which is gone), and when I took of the splice it left a little bare wire exposing? We are talking the size of the lead at the end of a penicl.

imlachg1

also is it true that the tps for a 94-00 b18c1 are different from all the rest, i was reading on ebay, that the gsr tps's read backards from other b seriers and d seriers tps's? Please help. Also I have no helms manual for a 00 gsr motor. But, can anyone run down the process for checking the tps sensor?

imlachg1

as far as adjusting the tps, i know it has to read .45 volts at idle, and 5 volts at wot, but how do I do that, with a volt meter, but where do I stick it? And how do I adjust it?

BeerBaron105

i have nitrous, ever see a 1999 honda civic dx hitting low 15s on a stock engine?

chronodyne28

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BeerBaron105 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have nitrous, ever see a 1999 honda civic dx hitting low 15s on a stock engine?</TD></TR></TABLE>

ever seen a 99 dx's motor blow from nitrous

PriMaTe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chronodyne28 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ever seen a 99 dx's motor blow from nitrous</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nitrous, like any other FI can be safe, and is a cheap power adder if used properly. People blow their motors cause they're dumb and use too big of a shot.

NonovUrbizniz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by imlachg1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as far as adjusting the tps, i know it has to read .45 volts at idle, and 5 volts at wot, but how do I do that, with a volt meter, but where do I stick it? And how do I adjust it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You use a multimeter.... it should be obvious... one wire won't be putting out any voltage (ground) and the other will...

There is no adjusting it... if it's off it's bad. unless it contacts the throttle linkage with some sort of adjustable mount... in that case you just adjust it's position till it reads properly at both positions... if you can't, it's bad you need a new one.


As mentioned... nitros is just like any other FI... only there's a LOT less experience with nitros than there is with turbo's and SC's... so they tend to blow more often... Also most people use dry systems which (I believe... I'm no nitros expert myself) relay on raised fuel pressure to your stock injectors to fuel enough for the nitros... this much like the fuel pressure risers for turbo's are CRAPPY means of fueling an FI application...

The problem with Nitros over Turbo is the turbo is ALWAYS on... so you just run bigger injectors... since you ALWAYS need more fuel (once in boost)... For nitros if you ran larger injectors you'd have to have switchable fuel maps for them... one set of lean ones to run normal fuel... and another fat set for when the nitros is running...

if you run a wet system and tune it properly then there usually arent any more problems than their would be achieving the same HP through other means....

chronodyne28

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PriMaTe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Nitrous, like any other FI can be safe, and is a cheap power adder if used properly. People blow their motors cause they're dumb and use too big of a shot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no ****

imlachg1

I also am thinking of putting a new edu in, should I switch to an obdI or keep the stock 2000 obdII ecu? Help me out.

imlachg1

as far as changing to an obd1, do i just have to get an obd1 ecu(such as what) and then buy a jumper? What are the advantages of this? (note: I don't have emisions tests in Indiana)

HamsterStyle

where at in IN are you? You may want to contact FBR at 317-885-6710. They might be able to help you out. they are on the south side of indy.

tommy

imlachg1

Heres the deal, i got a new obd ecu with the jumper harness, i put the new tps on and I can only get like .02 at most, some times .03 whats the deal? I need help bad, with both tps's i'm only getting that reading? Please help.