Del sol gsr swapped POverheating issue
#1
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Del sol gsr swapped POverheating issue
ok heres the deal last yer or so i had a Ef fluidye raditor in my del sol and it would overheat in about 10 mins or run time....i finally went back to stock wimpy single ratdior and it was fine so no blown HG....figured since a couple rows on the fluidyne were welded shut ( rod thru it) that was the issue.
So i go to fire up my car after a yr down and i have a New great condition large ef/da fluidyne rad and it still overheats....
my question is ...is my water pump not strong enough...could i upgrade or any suggestions would be great.....thanks guys!
So i go to fire up my car after a yr down and i have a New great condition large ef/da fluidyne rad and it still overheats....
my question is ...is my water pump not strong enough...could i upgrade or any suggestions would be great.....thanks guys!
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Have you checked/replaced the thermostat?
The only other thing i can think off is that coolant has drained out of the block and the pump isnt pumping any coolant because its dry. I like to squeeze the upper rad hose after putting in new coolant to make sure that the coolant will circulate when i first turn the car on.
The only other thing i can think off is that coolant has drained out of the block and the pump isnt pumping any coolant because its dry. I like to squeeze the upper rad hose after putting in new coolant to make sure that the coolant will circulate when i first turn the car on.
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Re: Del sol gsr swapped POverheating issue (Fibercation)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fibercation »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok heres the deal last yer or so i had a Ef fluidye raditor in my del sol and it would overheat in about 10 mins or run time....i finally went back to stock wimpy single ratdior and it was fine so no blown HG....figured since a couple rows on the fluidyne were welded shut ( rod thru it) that was the issue.
So i go to fire up my car after a yr down and i have a New great condition large ef/da fluidyne rad and it still overheats....
my question is ...is my water pump not strong enough...could i upgrade or any suggestions would be great.....thanks guys!</TD></TR></TABLE>
WTF? You're usually pretty articulate. Or maybe I'm mistaken.
Anyway...do you have the correct mix of coolant and water? Is your cooling fan working? Is your thermostat good?
More details will help.
So i go to fire up my car after a yr down and i have a New great condition large ef/da fluidyne rad and it still overheats....
my question is ...is my water pump not strong enough...could i upgrade or any suggestions would be great.....thanks guys!</TD></TR></TABLE>
WTF? You're usually pretty articulate. Or maybe I'm mistaken.
Anyway...do you have the correct mix of coolant and water? Is your cooling fan working? Is your thermostat good?
More details will help.
#4
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is the coolant full
if not find the leak
if theres no leak, fill it up
Thermostat might be stuck closed, iunno how often this happens but I've never seen it happen.
Does it overheat when your idling for 10 minutes or when your driving? if its when your idling and your coolant is full, your fan is the problem. If your fan works then it's most likely your radiator.
if not find the leak
if theres no leak, fill it up
Thermostat might be stuck closed, iunno how often this happens but I've never seen it happen.
Does it overheat when your idling for 10 minutes or when your driving? if its when your idling and your coolant is full, your fan is the problem. If your fan works then it's most likely your radiator.
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new thermo, idled for ten mins fine...drove for ten and it overheated
top rad hose is HOT bottom =not hot at all
i dont think its circulating.....i have the overflow can above teh head etc
top rad hose is HOT bottom =not hot at all
i dont think its circulating.....i have the overflow can above teh head etc
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#8
Re: (Fibercation)
I had sorta the same issue when I swapped my gsr into my sol a few weeks ago. I had a vapor lock issue though and had to bleed it twice to get it to clear. I'm sure your gsr water pump is just fine for what it's doing. The first time I filled it I didn't open the bleeder valve though and I think that caused some of my issues. The second time (I was running straight water while I ironed out any hose issues the first time) I added a mix and had to wait for a LOT of bubbles to clear before it really started pumping good. After that, it's all good. Not sure if that helps though....good luck!
#9
Re: (Raggedyman)
if you wanna know if the water pump is pumping, without having to swap radiators, and changiong coolant again, possibly further complicating this, just run the car, and turn the heat on, does hot air blow out? if so the pump is pumping! if so, then the radiators are all garbage, if the heat is weak or no heat with a fully warm engine, then the pump is inop!
#13
Re: (Fibercation)
I never put the cap on so I can see the level and let the motor idle until it warms up and the thermostat opens. Having the bleeder open during that time or opening and closing it can make for a big mess but that's the only way I've found to get all the air out. I usually leave it open for a bit until I see some kind of flow vs. just bubbles, then I'll close it and let it run for a bit. Then crack it open again and get more bubbles. If it looks like I'm still bubbling, I'll keep doing it. When I start to get full flow with no bubbles, I'm done.
#14
Re: (Raggedyman)
or if u just bend over and take it to a shop we use this vacuum thing that uses shop auir to draw a big vaccuum in the entire system while tis empty,a nd once the vacuum is pulled a separate hose into a bucket of coolant is turned on and the coolant rushes into the vacuum. no air can exsist from this.
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