FakeVtecSticker

I meant to take some pics yesterday, but my charging port on my phone broke so I am currently without a camera... Hopefully I can get a new phone today and snap a couple pics of the janky build.

2x0

Sounds like things are moving along quickly. Looking forward to some pics or vids once it's up and running.

Don't get discouraged, there are always lots of odds and ends that don't go as planned, especially when trying to turbo in such a short timeframe

tony_2018

Thread is def going places REAL QUICK.

FakeVtecSticker

Edit #7 - 6.28.17

So it is possible to turbo your car in a week, but it takes a toll, I tell you.

Constant stress. I'm tired. I'm so tired. I've worked 40 hours this week and spent every other second working on the car. I'm averaging 4 hours of sleep per night. I slept in my car last night. Averaging 1 meal per day. Working with my shirt off today, when I went to shower, I was coated in a layer of grease that stopped at my boxers. Crazy.

Everything is done. Well, mostly everything. Oil pan and downpipe were finished today, as well as hood modifications. Welding the downpipe was a pain in the ***, the kid welding it didn't really seem to know what he was doing. We had to JBWeld the downpipe turbo flange to the turbo (will fix when a possible solution is found) because bolts weren't fitting/threading. Also had to cut up the IC piping to accommodate the DP. Not to mention the AC delete I didn't want to do. IC fins have taken a beating. I hate eBay. But I need eBay.

I wish had more cash to do the car right. better equipment down the road.

We need to modify the bumper to fit the IC, install the turbo timer, and throw in the boost gauge. That's it. All "optional" items for the car to run, really. Then, obviously fixing JBWeld'd DP is next on the list. I'll have engine bay pictures tomorrow. Hopefully a video of it running when the ECU comes in from Xenocron. Monday, maybe.

I'm scared that the build was a little too Haggard Garage or we put some stuff together wrong, but I think everything should be MINT. God, that's cringey. I need to go to bed.

FakeVtecSticker

Edit #8 - 7.1.17 - WITH PICS!

Saturday... Let's tie up some loose ends. I had to move out of the garage last night because my parents are coming back from the beach today... They are none the wiser about the turbo. Massive 3 hour cleanup last night was sort of a success. I'm going to have some explaining to do regarding the huge box of stock parts from my car... and the greasy hand prints around the house...

So, until I figure out the downpipe situation, I'm going to put some C Clamps on the downpipe/turbo to secure it better. I think it only has 3 bolts right now. Might JBWeld it a little more too, lol. Not great but it's what I have to work with here. Also, the oil drain from the turbo leaked a little on the street. Gonna JBWeld that too, hopefully that's enough to seal it. I'm gonna try to install the turbo timer and the boost gauge today and tomorrow as well, to prepare for the ECU coming in on Monday/Tuesday. Here's some pics of what I got thus far.










As you can see, it's a little ghetto rigged, but it'll work. BOV doesn't quite clear the hood, so I may do hood flares, even though I despise the look. You can kinda see in the one picture where I cut out some of the hood bracing as well. The injectors/fuel rail need some aesthetic cleanup, as does the air ram. Before anyone says anything, no, I'm not painting the valve cover or engine bay. Looks corny to me. A red single cam valve cover is about as cool looking as the stupid stick figure family window vinyls.

If you guys want pictures of anything else, just let me know. The downpipe welding actually turned out pretty good. We had to rotate the O2 sensor bung and the cat flange, but it all goes together now. The welds don't looks good, but the kid who did them only charged $40 and it stays together so I'm fine with it.

Overall, for a 20 year old college kid who knew nothing about cars 12 months ago on a tight budget, I don't think I did half bad. I shouldn't speak too soon, though, we still don't know if it runs...

tony_2018

Wow, the rebuild happened overnight. So awesome.

FakeVtecSticker

Yeah dude. 7 days from cracking the first bolt of the project (head gasket) to now- literally all I have left to do is to find a hole in the driver's footwell to put a line for the boost gauge through. That's it. Then, hopefully oil will stop leaking and my ECU will come...

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

jb weld doesn't like oil. it doesnt set up right with oil getting on it, or on oil covered surfaces.

FakeVtecSticker

Yeah, I noticed it's still leaking. How else should I improve the seal?

2x0

Clean both sealing surfaces well, a light sand-papering works. Then apply a bead of RTV silicone gasket maker. I use the copper high heat stuff on the turbo oil flanges. After tightening it back together, let it set overnight.

FakeVtecSticker

Cool, I'll try to get that done tomorrow and report back with results ASAP.

tony_2018

coolest thread ever, whats next?

FakeVtecSticker

Tomorrow:

1. Finishing the boost gauge
2. Stopping oil pan leakage
3. Figuring out the downpipe issues, whether I TIG weld it to the turbo (just an eBay turbo, no real loss). Probably more JBWeld for now

New clutch down the road. Trying to figure out the most cost effective option.

Then, I have to drive it on the basemapped ECU from Xenocron for a couple weeks until I save up enough money for a full dyno tune. I figure I should put in a new clutch before I go for the tune, I don't want anything holding me back from my 220 HP power goal when I'm paying the big bucks for the dyno. So that should take awhile.

Really, I'm gonna have to see how it runs once the ECU comes back and go from there.

Things of concern:

1. Hood does not clear wastegate, small outward dents in hood now (lift the hood with spacers? don't like the look but it's my best option)
2. Oil leakage
3. Oil drain from turbo touching DP, might heatsink
4. How well we put the motor back together

Overall, I'm 90% certain that it'll start when the ECU comes back. My dad has knocked my confidence down a notch, he looked at my engine bay and told me how disappointed he was in me and that he knows the car will never run again, lol. I don't know. We worked really hard on the car and made sure to get everything together properly, replaced all the gaskets, and were very gentle throughout the whole process. So basically, all the car needs to be finished in my book is the boost gauge installed, and at that point I've done what I can before I have the ECU. I'm terrified. I wish I had a mentor during the build process so that I could do everything exactly right. Like I said, I don't see any immediate motor threatening problems, but my dad really read me the riot act.

I keep going through a mental checklist to make sure everything was done right. Obviously, the bulk of the build and the fun part is pretty much over. As excited as I am to have a 220 HP little Honda, I have to keep my cool and wait patiently until I can afford to tune it with the right parts.

The oil leakage has been really bothering me today.

2x0

Relax, it'll be fine. #1 best thing you could've done is gotten your ecu chipped and basemapped before driving. Too many people try to throw on a turbo and drive with no engine management at all, and that's how they destroy things in a hurry. Just continue on your path, be patient and get it tuned before boosting.

For safety Id recomend installing a wideband O2 gauge so you know how lean or rich it is running on the basemap. Without that the only way to know is reading the spark plugs. And speaking of, you may want to gap your plugs a little tighter than oem.

Oil leaks shouldn't be a huge concern, you can always check/add fluid as needed til you get em fixed. I know they are annoying as I've always had oil and trans fluid leaks with my crx, but don't let em get to you.

FakeVtecSticker

Edit #9 - 7.2.17

It's done! Boost gauge and turbo timer went in yesterday, routing the vacuum line for the boost gauge was so annoying. Had to route through the passenger side and through the dash to the driver side. Couldn't find any guides online for it so I had to punch through some carpet to get the line in, lol. If anyone wants a full guide I can do that, the whole ordeal was kind of a bitch. This week (mostly tomorrow) I want to do two things: Fix the oil leak and clean up the spark plugs. I'm gonna pick up some gasket maker tomorrow and sand down the area a little, lay that stuff down, and then JBWeld on top of that. If that doesn't fix the leak, I don't know what will. Then, I wanna rip out the spark plugs, clean them if there's gas on them, and then gap them to .3. Still waiting on ECU.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

your dad is a dick, lol.

FakeVtecSticker

Oh yeah dude, when I brought the car home last year I didn't tell them that I bought it. He said "wow, what a pile of ****."

But he has no problem using it as his personal toy when I'm away at school lmao. Whatever, I'm moving out after college so I won't have to deal with it for much longer.

CandyRedRC46

Dude for the love of god, do something better for your intake, than the oem elbow with electrical tape. Even clamping a filter straight to the turbo would be a better option than this. That oem piping is going to bottle neck you and stop you from reaching your 220hp goal, probably fall off and suck tape into your turbo...

I really cant believe you tried to start it with 440 injectors without a tune. Notaracist told you not to do this and it should have been obvious that double the fuel flow would be a bad idea, with out compensating (base map). If it actually ran, you would have washed the oil off your cylinders and really fucked things up. So good thing it didn't start.

Some advice:
Please install an oil pressure gauge. Your oil level is obviously going to be questionable, with all the jb weld and leaks. The first time you put some miles on this thing, you are likely to spring a leak, lose oil and in turn oil pressure, which can destroy both your turbo and engine.
Please install a wide band and afr gauge so you can keep an eye on things, very important being that you are going to running around on a base map. You don't want to destroy this enjoy before you even get to enjoy it.
Keep in mind, a base map is not meant to be driven on long or hard. It is only meant to get you to your tuner, under light throttle cruising, do not go romping around on it for weeks at a time untuned. You need to drive lightly until dyno day.
Did you make sure to properly set both your mechanical and ignition timing? Confirm your mechanical timing is correct and then properly set your ignition timing, with a timing light, while in diagnostic mode.
Please clean up all the jb weld crap and do things right.

One more "for the love of god rant" rant, FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, FINISH ROUTING YOUR WASTE GATE PIPING UNDER THE CAR.

P.S. you seem to be doing well at being a good sport and dealing with the constructive criticism. Keep it up.

FakeVtecSticker

CandyRedRC46

I appreciate your honesty.

Try to make room for it, an accurate afr reading is very important in builds like these.

If you have an accurate oil gauge already, great, install it. It can save you from a very very expensive mechanical fault.

Upon initial start up, confirm that the ignition timing is correct. It is very easy to do and shouldn't take long. Remember, your base map will only be as good as your ignition base timing. If your timing is off, your base map will be off too.

The way your wast gate is set up now, as soon as you hit waste gate pressure, you are going to be pumping very very hot exhaust right on to components that look like they can be easily burnt and damaged. At least weld on a foot or two of piping to have it dumped to the bottom of the car for now. I am sure if you are dailying it you are going to want to plumb it back into the exhaust, as it will be very obnoxious.

tony_2018

Dope as ****, NO AC.

FakeVtecSticker

I'm pissed. I have slathered 2 tubes of JBWeld and a whole tube of gasket maker on the damn oil drain, and it's still leaking. Just did another layer of it too. I just need it to hold pressure for now, then next week I'll do it right. I'm just so ready to have the computer back so the damn thing can get off the street and into a garage. It's the worst to have a known, fixable problem that you can't fix due to budgetary/logistical constraints.

Anyone know any better short term oil pan fixes?

Drain line looks sketchy too... sags in the middle. Gonna have to cut that down this week.

2x0

It's pretty normal to have leaky oil return line issues if it's not a straight shot downhill into the oil pan. If there's a sag in the line that could be a big part of your problem. Also if it doesn't drain above the level of fluid in the pan.

If you take the line off of the fitting in the pan, does oil leak out?

FakeVtecSticker

Ok, ECU came in today. As expected, we have a no start condition. We're getting fuel for sure, I think it's flooded. It cranks unevenly and putters a little, but doesn't wanna start. I need help. We've taken out spark plugs and wires and cranked it to try to drain cylinders, and also cleaned off spark plugs again.

Edit: spark plugs are black as well so I have spark. I can only assume I have air.

2x0

Did you check timing?

Next thing to do would be verify all plugs and injectors are firing.

Do you have any details on what basemap is on your ecu?