zebvaj

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zebvaj &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No the capacitors doesn't have polarity so anyway is fine. Solid CEL means you have a bad CHIPPING job or a bad BURN, BASEMAP, or CHIP itself. This is a P28 right? What program are you using to create your basemap? What kind of chips? If its Crome you need to "remove checksum routine" and if you are using SST chips, start the burn at 8000 (address) using Willem or whatever your device is. Trouble shoot everything.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I told you its not timing. If you still have a CEL check your ECU/CHIPPING JOB/CHIP. But believe who you wanna believe, by the sounds of things...these guys just throwing **** out there for you. YOU are the one that is there so troubleshoot it. And re-read the qoute you might of skipped it.

turbo-2nr

not try n to get off topic but venomzz is a dumb *** i keep see n him posting in threads giving bad info and than some one corrects him every time and he says "my buddy told me" well i got some new for you you buddy is a retard to please stop giving bad advice you not helping

95delsolz6

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zebvaj &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I told you its not timing. If you still have a CEL check your ECU/CHIPPING JOB/CHIP. But believe who you wanna believe, by the sounds of things...these guys just throwing **** out there for you. YOU are the one that is there so troubleshoot it. And re-read the qoute you might of skipped it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I read what you said, and I looked over the ecu but I can't see what is wrong with it. Thanks though.

boosted_dc2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zebvaj &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I told you its not timing. If you still have a CEL check your ECU/CHIPPING JOB/CHIP. But believe who you wanna believe, by the sounds of things...these guys just throwing **** out there for you. YOU are the one that is there so troubleshoot it. And re-read the qoute you might of skipped it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

he was having the problem before he went and chipped his ecu. so your wrong.

Landon

boosted_dc2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95delsolz6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I read what you said, and I looked over the ecu but I can't see what is wrong with it. Thanks though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

dude you need to listen to peoples advice. ive done this enough times to know. read this.

1. put in stock injectors.
2. put in stock computer (now you need to borrow someones)
3. start engine

if it runs then your problem is with the injectors/fuel/computer (now).

if it doesnt then you need to look at other problems.

Landon

zebvaj

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

he was having the problem before he went and chipped his ecu. so your wrong.

Landon</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you read, look closely how he says now he has a solid cel after the chipping job. Before he even chipped his ecu he tried it with 450cc injectors which was flooding his head by sending twice the amount of fuel and did not start. Also ther e is many way of doing timing and his way is also a tried and proven way. So yah problem is usually with the ecu, if he chipped it and has a SOLID CEL usually is the ecu, but could be a bad burn. Your way of troubleshooting however is what he needs to do to rule out the injectors or ecu. He's the one that has to figure it out...its not like honda-tech is there by his side.

95delsolz6

So I need to take off the injectors and resistor pack and borrow an ecu? Can I just cut the wire on J1 to set my ecu back to it's original state? How great is the posssiblity of recieving a bad chip from a reputable dealer?
Thanks for all the advice, I'm going to suck it up and just do it.

boosted_dc2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95delsolz6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So I need to take off the injectors and resistor pack and borrow an ecu? Can I just cut the wire on J1 to set my ecu back to it's original state? How great is the posssiblity of recieving a bad chip from a reputable dealer?
Thanks for all the advice, I'm going to suck it up and just do it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

you can do what you want, but you want to rule out as much stuff as possible and work from there. how do you know your resistor box is good? is it wired properly? maybee one of your injectors is stuck open? the list goes on. even on a fully built motor i would run stock injectors, stock computer, stock everything at first. then start adding the parts.

i learned the hardway, keep it simple, otherwise your just spinning your wheels not knowing where the fock to start

Landon


Modified by boosted_dc2 at 1:22 PM 1/24/2008

95delsolz6

That's exactly where I'm at. Everything is just running through my head and I keep thinking a miracle will happen and all of the sudden the car will start and... Any other topic and I'd be more exceptional to the fact that "You have to start somewhere!" I've nearly come to accept this and will begin working on the car tomorrow. Thank you very much for the continuous input.

Prudz_lude

iTrader: (1)

does it make the clicking noise when you turn it over? Does it even turn over? It could just be your starter.

venomzz

I don't know if this helps but when I timed mine I bumped the ignition while my buddy held his finger over the spark plug hole untill he felt air rush past his finger we tried to start it and it turned out we were 90 degrees off so we slid the timing belt off turned the cam gear 1/4 rotation exactly and slid the belt back on and it ran perfect very tricky also you should be able to smell gas gettin to your motor from the electronic fuel pump if its turning over and not starting you should be able to smell a lot of gas. Thats about all I can tell you without being there. You might try and find an old gear head like I did to help you get it runnin.

95delsolz6

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Prudz_lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does it make the clicking noise when you turn it over? Does it even turn over? It could just be your starter.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes the when the key is at the the second position, fuel pump primes and I hear the clicking noise. Then I try to start the car and it turns over but won't start.
So starter works fine. I'm going to start where boosted_dc2 suggested, it's most logical right now. Thanks for the input.

95delsolz6

Okay I finally got time to look at the car. I switched the 440's with the stock injectors and then began unsoldering the resistor box. At that point I realized I should make sure the resistor box is good, so I checked all four wires and found that there is 6.1 ohms resistance for each injector. I then checked that the resistance was indeed going to each injector, and I found that Two Injectors were not wired correctly. I had help from a good friends brother who knows the electrical side of cars, but apparently this was an oversight. I'm positive that this has stopped the car from turning over, but I'll continue with the stock injector route a while further.

So I looked more closely at the timing and from looking at my chilton (waiting for my Del Sol Service manual to arrive) and I saw a picture of the 3 marks on the crank pulley with a red mark in the middle. I lined that up with the arrow and it looks like I'm off one tooth. Should I correct this now? I'll keep you informed until the car gets running. Thanks for all the help thus far.

boosted_dc2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95delsolz6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay I finally got time to look at the car. I switched the 440's with the stock injectors and then began unsoldering the resistor box. At that point I realized I should make sure the resistor box is good, so I checked all four wires and found that there is 6.1 ohms resistance for each injector. I then checked that the resistance was indeed going to each injector, and I found that Two Injectors were not wired correctly. I had help from a good friends brother who knows the electrical side of cars, but apparently this was an oversight. I'm positive that this has stopped the car from turning over, but I'll continue with the stock injector route a while further.

So I looked more closely at the timing and from looking at my chilton (waiting for my Del Sol Service manual to arrive) and I saw a picture of the 3 marks on the crank pulley with a red mark in the middle. I lined that up with the arrow and it looks like I'm off one tooth. Should I correct this now? I'll keep you informed until the car gets running. Thanks for all the help thus far.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea you should correct it now. take a picture of the mark your using so we know that your crank is at TDC. sometimes the timing covers look a little wierd, i always use the marks on the oil pump when timing a motor.

Landon

95delsolz6

I removed J1 on the ecu and everything is back to normal, but the car still didn't start. What should I do now?




Modified by 95delsolz6 at 4:42 PM 1/29/2008

95delsolz6

Okay I got my 1995 Del Sol Service manual today and checked if I had the timing right and I don't. TDC needs to be inline with the white mark on the crank pulley, not the red. So I'll adjust the timing and pray to God that I get somewhere.

zebvaj

You can try that but I still dont think thats your problem. Even if its off by a tooth it would start but run lacking power. When I did my Sol i didn't look at the pulley, all I did was stick the oil dip stick down number 1 spark plug hole with the spark plug pulled out. Then turned the crank until I saw that I was a TDC, before it starts going down again. I have found that between the white, red, and black markings, it however was still at TDC. So good luck. But if it doesn't solve the problem...then the problem is else where.

pearl95sc

Just curious, I didn't see anything about havin tried it, bud did you...

Pull one of the plug wires out and hold the top, very important here, you don't wanna get shocked, and put the end near a bolt and check for spark? Could also use a spark tester light too, uch safer, less risk.

Or put a noid light on each injector to check to see that its firing? Best when used in conjunction with the spark light tester.

Last but not least, check all the fuses? Possible you pinched a wire and shorted somethin?

And if the ecu is dumping too much fuel, hold down the accelerator while its cranking. This will shut the injectors off while turning over in attempts to burn the excess fuel.

Best of luck, i'm stumped.

boosted_dc2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95delsolz6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I removed J1 on the ecu and everything is back to normal, but the car still didn't start. What should I do now?




Modified by 95delsolz6 at 4:42 PM 1/29/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats the timing mark for ignition timing, not to time the motor. yes the white one is correct, but its not 100% acurate all the time thats what i tried to tell you. you would have saved so much time by now just taking the accesory belts off, take off the crank pully and timing belt covers and time it off the marks on the oil pump. it would take 15 minutes to do that. now your always second guessing your self. and get a compression tester now, once you get it timed do a test. with all this screwing around you may have bent some valves by the timing being off.

Landon

95delsolz6

How do I time the engine using the oil pump?
I take off the power steering and alternator belts, take off the crank pulley (easier said than done), take off the timing belt cover and then what am I looking for? This is new to me, so if you could explain it a little better I'd appreciate it.

boosted_dc2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95delsolz6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do I time the engine using the oil pump?
I take off the power steering and alternator belts, take off the crank pulley (easier said than done), take off the timing belt cover and then what am I looking for? This is new to me, so if you could explain it a little better I'd appreciate it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

there is a mark on the oil pump, and one on the crankshaft. you will see when you take it apart. the crank pulley is easy to get off if you get the tool for it, it holds it still and you can fit a socket through.

another thing i should have asked you is if your sure the distrubutor is not off by 180*. check that first, put cylinder 1 to TDC and take off the distributor car and make sure its firing to the number 1 spark plug.

Landon

95delsolz6

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">another thing i should have asked you is if your sure the distrubutor is not off by 180*. check that first, put cylinder 1 to TDC and take off the distributor car and make sure its firing to the number 1 spark plug.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Checked the distributor and when #1 is at TDC the distibutor is pointing that way, so that's good. I'll proceed with the timing later tonight if everything goes right.

95delsolz6

Just an update. Got the crank pulley off, lined up the marks on the oil pump and the crankshaft, crank pulley lines up with the white mark like it should now. Bought a new battery, but still no start. I checked the compression and thats my problem. I got 120 150 150 40. So now I'm reading to find the answer to my problem. Any suggestions are welcome. And I don't care what anyone says, that crank pulley bolt is a bitch.

96electronH

i agree about the crank pulley bolt they can be a bitch....but damn idk what else it could be u checked ecu,spark,fuel....im thinking but nothing comes to my mind hope u find something out though

95delsolz6

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1. put in stock injectors.
2. put in stock computer
3. start engine. no start
</TD></TR></TABLE>

So I did all this, but now I have a problem with the compression. What do I need to look into now? I would first like to try anything that can be done with the head on, but if and when the time comes I'll have to remove it. Should I be focusing on the valvetrain, or is there anything obvious?

I haven't found much on what causes bad compression besides; blown headgasket (bad compression in adjacent cylinders, not the case), bad piston rings (just put in new rings during rebuild, properly), and valves. I don't really know what would need adjusting or replacing with the valves, unless I have a bent valve. Can I adjust the valves or anything with the head still on?

Any helpful suggestions as to what the problem might be?