mbarb15

Here's A good one:

My friend totalled his 94 civic ex, and sold me his block for $300. I as well have a 94 civic ex, but now i have an extra d16z6 block layin around. Since the block is off the car i was planning to redo the internals. Take the head apart, do the cams, valve lifters & guide, low compression piston& rings, eagle rods, then have it sent out to get port & polished and honed. After that do fuel management, injectors, rail, regulator. First question, with a decent turbo kit & those mods how much boost do u think i can push out of the single over head safely? Second question is it even worth it? Also what other mods would u recommend?

MikeB

Archidictus

With a good head P&P and low comp, forged internals you should be able to safely put up about 1 BAR (14.9psi). Is it worth it? Hell yes it's worth it. I'm rocking the bone-***-stock D16Z6 in my 93 hatchy and I'm actually kind of reluctant to put an H22 in it in the near future because it's such a tight, strong-running motor.

Turbo that bitch and run low 13's

Eibach95Civic

d-series turbo'd are bomb *** man, trust me..the $$$$ will be worth it... they have so much pull compared to the stock d-series

tonesdef

yeah i say turbo it. I love d series but i'm going for the H since all the series that i have had died on my and i always wanted an h22 or b18c1

Doeboy

well i think it is worth it and if it is tuned right i know you could run a easy 15-17 psi with the right internals, and for your rods go with a 9.0-1 or a 9.5-1 compression rate with crower rods and arrias pistons with total seal rings a block gaurd to strengthen the block for about 25psi , all skunk2 valve train including the high lift valves, with dual spring valve springs titanium retainers bronze valve guides and skunk2 turbo cam, with all nice pnp and valve job you can, i would get a apex-i turbo kit with a nice 16-18g turbo and all intercooler piping with tial wastgate and a bov of your choice, i would say that is about 12.9-13.2s tuned right in the 1/4 mile

mbarb15

Alright guys,

D16z6 it is and i'm taking your word for it and i have been doing my research, sooo far i'm in the process of finding a decent machine shop close to me that has the ***** to touch my block, and from there on the project begins. Being so that the "budget" is tight i gotta look for different options and price ranges, basically "shop around", then will give it a start. If any of you have any idea of some rough prices and different opinions for any of the internals that i can work with that i listed above, let me know so i can compare them.

Sincerely, MiKeB mAn

kommon_sense

I think that it is definately worth it. However I don't know that everything that you mentioned is necessary. It really depends on how much power you are trying to make.

Happyman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With a good head P&P and low comp, forged internals you should be able to safely put up about 1 BAR (14.9psi). Is it worth it? Hell yes it's worth it. I'm rocking the bone-***-stock D16Z6 in my 93 hatchy and I'm actually kind of reluctant to put an H22 in it in the near future because it's such a tight, strong-running motor.

Turbo that bitch and run low 13's </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea right. At 15 psi if it's tuned and with the right turbo he could easily make 300 whp and run nice high to mid 12s. There is a kid on here with a D15 VTEC turbo at 8 psi running mid 13s.

B18C5-EH2

I'd leave the head alone unless you send it off to a REPUTABLE Honda head specialist, like Portflow or Alaniz.

I'd save that money for something worthwhile for boost, like bigger injectors, Hondata, or put it towards a total sleeving and overboring job to have a nice 1.8L SOHC block with Golden Eagle Sleeves and a 78-79mm bore.



Headwork on a boosted engine is over rated unless the work is top-notch. Sometimes you can LOSE power from a P&P because the heads are already pretty nice from Honda. Too many do-it-your-selfers ruin the head by thinking "bigger is better" and they ruin port velocity by removing too much material.

As far as a boosted D16Z6 goes, it's a killer set-up.

Check the Forced Induction forum and SEARCH in there for good turbos for what you're looking for.

crucial si

[QUOTE=B18C5-EH2]I'd leave the head alone unless you send it off to a REPUTABLE Honda head specialist
Headwork on a boosted engine is over rated unless the work is top-notch. Sometimes you can LOSE power from a P&Pl.

As far as a boosted D16Z6 goes, it's a killer set-up.
QUOTE]


no need for headwork, your not a high reving motor. work on the bottom end only.

Ricey McRicerton

Definately go for it!!! Turbo SOHC is waaay badass!!!

97 BB6

Just invested $1,500 on a custom turbo setup, stock internals, 8 psi= 180whp, 157 tq. I can only imagine how fast your car would be with all the things you want to do. The point is, go for it!

mbarb15

alright guys,

since the dispute is on, is the block even woth sending out to get machined pnp, or should i just do the internals? The thing is, is that i want to push out as much boost as i can out of that motor, safely. Obviously there's more to it than just the internals, fuel management, bigger fuel pump, too list a few, but i want to get the most brute power out of that engine without losing my wallet. So far half of you mentioned that it's pointless to pnp, soo should i just continue with just doing the internals, cams, low compr piston/rings, valve/ springs & guide? also how about a 3 angle valve job? With the internals done, how much boost do u think i can be runnin?

Also, what other mods should any of recommend?

Sincerely, MikeB

mAn

piscorpio

I personally don't plan any headwork with my z6 project. I figure I will strengthen the weakest aspect, the bottom end, and use the rest of my resources for fuel system and tuning.

Tom (B18c5-EH2) has been doing his homework on D series engines lately, and moreso when it comes to port and polishing them, so I would take his word in this case.

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">since the dispute is on, is the block even woth sending out to get machined pnp, or should i just do the internals?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think you're confused a bit.

You don't port and polish a block, you do that sort of thing to the head. In this case I'm saying that P&P work on the head would ot be necessary.

I would recommend sending the block out to be sleeved from the likes of Golden Eagle and have them go bigger on the cylinder bores. The stock 75mm bore is worth 1595cc, while you could go large with like a 78mm or 79mm bore with the new sleeved block to have roughly a 1.8L sohc turbo engine.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is that i want to push out as much boost as i can out of that motor, safely.</TD></TR></TABLE>

See my suggestion above. Once you get forged pistons and rods the next weakest link will be the stock cylinders. This is why I say if you want lots of boost, have the block sleeved. While it's being sleeved there's no better time to go bigger on the cylinders.

Of course you'll need to specify the bore size so that you get matching pistons aswell.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but i want to get the most brute power out of that engine without losing my wallet.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's impossible.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So far half of you mentioned that it's pointless to pnp, soo should i just continue with just doing the internals, cams, low compr piston/rings, valve/ springs & guide?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well for one thing the D16Z6 only has one cam, not two. You could look into a custom turbo-specific cam for the engine.

Valve springs are more for higher revving, which in this case I see no need for them.

I'd stick with nohting less than pistons and rods, and there's no need to go much lower on compression since the stock CR is an already-low 9.2:1. You could go with 9:1 if you must. 8.5:1 and you'll need to run more boost, and that means more lag.

Tuning will negate the need for lower than 9:1 CR.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also how about a 3 angle valve job?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Again that's headwork that just isn't necessary. A routine valvejob to create a tight seal will be nice to freshen up the top end.

Spade

Goldeneagle barely "allows" a 79 mm bore N/A. Suggest 78mm bore be the highest to go on a boosted D series.

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Goldeneagle barely "allows" a 79 mm bore N/A. Suggest 78mm bore be the highest to go on a boosted D series.</TD></TR></TABLE>

79mm was the max bore.

ill_take_one

If you do sleeve, i wouldn't go with the max bore. The reasoning behind this, is if you crack a sleeve or something, then what are you going to do? You'd most likely have to throw in new sleeves again which is gonna set you back even more.

I plan on sleeving my D16z6 block for my 75.5mm CP pistons. This way if something goes wrong, i'll have room to bore it larger and thrown in new pistons.

Keep in mind, some of the bigger sizes (for pistons) WILL cost you alot more than the shelf models do.
Goodluck!