D16Z6 timing issues? Need help.
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D16Z6 timing issues? Need help.
I posted this in the tech forum but got no help. I just wanted to try here before I gave up. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 92 Si. I bought the car in May. At the time of purchase, the car ran well, As the summer progressed, the car steadily ran worse and worse to the point that I couldn't hardly get it around the block. I did a general tune up(cap, rotor, wires and plugs) but this did not seem to make a difference. We tried to set the timing but we could not advance the distributor any where close enough to get the timing set. We then did a compression check and realized that one cylinder was quite a bit down on compression. We took off the head, checked the piston ring clearance, ground the valves in the weak cylinder, adjusted all the valves, got a new timing belt and put it back together. After we put it back together, we couldn't get the timing set properly so we decided to tear it down again and advance the cam 1 tooth. This seemed to make quite a difference. We were able to finally get the timing set correctly with the distributor advanced as far as it can go and the car ran much better but seemed to be a bit down on power. But now it seems to run very rich. I pulled the plugs out and they are black as coal. We are considering advancing the cam one more tooth but I am afraid to do so and risk the valves contacting the pistons.
Is there something that we are overlooking? Any suggestions on how to resolve this problem? is there something that I am forgetting? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Geoff
I have a 92 Si. I bought the car in May. At the time of purchase, the car ran well, As the summer progressed, the car steadily ran worse and worse to the point that I couldn't hardly get it around the block. I did a general tune up(cap, rotor, wires and plugs) but this did not seem to make a difference. We tried to set the timing but we could not advance the distributor any where close enough to get the timing set. We then did a compression check and realized that one cylinder was quite a bit down on compression. We took off the head, checked the piston ring clearance, ground the valves in the weak cylinder, adjusted all the valves, got a new timing belt and put it back together. After we put it back together, we couldn't get the timing set properly so we decided to tear it down again and advance the cam 1 tooth. This seemed to make quite a difference. We were able to finally get the timing set correctly with the distributor advanced as far as it can go and the car ran much better but seemed to be a bit down on power. But now it seems to run very rich. I pulled the plugs out and they are black as coal. We are considering advancing the cam one more tooth but I am afraid to do so and risk the valves contacting the pistons.
Is there something that we are overlooking? Any suggestions on how to resolve this problem? is there something that I am forgetting? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Geoff
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You MUST have the crankshaft pulley and camshaft sprocket BOTH on TDC when putting on a timing belt and DOUBLE CHECK that it has not skipped a tooth. Then, you can adjust timing from there with an appropriate timing light.
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Re: (Dimi)
Thank you for the input!
Yes, we did this. We were very careful to make sure that the crankshaft and cam were both on TDC. We double checked by rotating the engine a few revolutions and lining them up again.
Any other ideas?
Yes, we did this. We were very careful to make sure that the crankshaft and cam were both on TDC. We double checked by rotating the engine a few revolutions and lining them up again.
Any other ideas?
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There's not really any other ideas. This is the proper way to do it. Both on TDC then check timing. Have you checked other parts that can be causing your motor to be running rich.
What's the condition of your O2 sensor?
What's the condition of your O2 sensor?
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Re: (Dimi)
Ok, I think I have an idea of what is causing this. I have a small crack in my exhaust manifold where the #2 and #3 cylinders meet. I think maybe this could be affecting the O2 sensor readings. Does this sound like a reasonable possibility?
Edit: The crack is no longer small. It is about 5 inches long. It starts on the front side of the exhaust manifold at the Y where the #2 and #3 Cylinders meet and goes all the way around the Y, about 2 inches down the back of the exhaust manifold. I would assume that the O2 sensor is getting false readings because of this crack. Safe assumption?
Modified by GChambers at 1:09 AM 9/22/2004
Edit: The crack is no longer small. It is about 5 inches long. It starts on the front side of the exhaust manifold at the Y where the #2 and #3 Cylinders meet and goes all the way around the Y, about 2 inches down the back of the exhaust manifold. I would assume that the O2 sensor is getting false readings because of this crack. Safe assumption?
Modified by GChambers at 1:09 AM 9/22/2004
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