roc0487

Well, I put a new timing belt/water pump/tensioner pulley and even the damn spring on a while back. Did everything to spec.

Problem is I have the notorious belt whine that is a pain in my ***, I reset the tension idk how many times... usually seems to go away somewhat after the car warms to normal temp. Everything is new, took alt belt off and still has the noise. Don't have a/c or p/s, any help as to what else to do? Happened to anyone else?

Thanks in advance.

P.S. Have read every thread that I could find, both on here, CC, and google. No dice.

roc0487

Anybody?

fonkernuckle

iTrader: (5)

Is it a squeel or a whine. I have had the squeel from the alternator belt being loose or not tight enough.
If its a whine from the timing belt area I would suspect the tensioner and then lastly the water pump itself..is the timing belt on there extremely tight?

roc0487

It is a whine, almost sounds like it is supercharged. I know that it's from the timing belt area, I used a stethoscope that I found and it's definitely coming from the timing area. At one point I had the upper cover off, and thought that the inner cover was rubbing on back of cam gear, so I put it back on and it's still there.
I have tried to loosen the belt, meaning instead of going 3 teeth with tensioner bolt loose, I tried 2 and even 1, and the belt still gave me the noise. I have noticed that once the car warms up a bit, SOME of the noise goes away. Also, I had a thought today at work that perhaps I may have the tensioner bolt itself too tight? Not letter the pulley move as it should to maintain proper adjustment on the belt. Also, I know that we can get brand new parts that are defective, but before I put the pump and tensioner on, they moved smoothly compared to the old parts that were the originals at 126k. At this point I may try to not torque the bolt so tight, where those things are it's almost impossible to use a torque wrench.

Thanks for your reponse man, and sorry for the novel.

roc0487

Upon doing more reading, I've realized the no one can really come to a conclusion on having the same trouble. They are either saying it's too tight or too loose. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

I would set to TDC
Loosen tensioner bolt 1/2 turn
Rotate 3 teeth (tried 2 incase it was too tight)
Retighten bolt
Did that about 5 times and still have the damn whine.

Please help

EJ8_Man

Check your timing belt cover to indication that it is making contact with the timing belt or crank pulley. It may not be on strait, or you bought an aftermarket water pump which doesn't fit right and is causing the timing belt cover to not fit properly. Had this problem with a B18B, the solution was to grind off the metal on the water pump causing the issue.

roc0487

I'll check it tomorrow, after racking my brain I was thinking it could possibly be TB cover somewhere, I have retensioned the belt and nothing changed. Deflection is 1/4"-1/2"... Got a gates wp, tb, and pulley kit with oem honda spring.

myEKsedan

iTrader: (1)

What kind of belt are you running?

roc0487

Gates belt

roc0487

Today I took off upper cover and top two bolts of lower cover, put vc on and started the car, pulled lower cover out from water pump, still noise... no indication crank is rubbing and the belt is perfectly centered on the cam and crank pulleys. I could even see the concave spacers with a flashlight and they are )belt( and not touching the belt. Had the noise before timing belt replacement also. WTF?!

also, I am pretty sure the hanes manual I have is complete ****, when I did a valve adjustment last year it says turn crank clockwise, I know... it's counter-clockwise... I figured it out eventually. So now it has me thinking that there is something missing from proper belt tension technique.

roc0487

Is it possible that instead of TDC, loosen bolt 1/2 turn and rotate 3 teeth... that instead of 3 teeth you just use the tension that is applied by the spring and retighten bolt?

Someone please help me out...

roc0487

SOLVED! I played around with the tension until I could flip the belt 90 degrees or so, started it up and she sounds smooth as hell. I set #1 at TDC, cracked the tensioner bolt 180 degrees and then loosened up on the belt, retorqued tensioner bolt and she's good to go. I hope this helps someone in the future, what a bitch of a problem to have.

video_voide

Glad to hear you got to the bottom of this. I too have a whine, which brought me to your thread. Tomorrow I'm going to go for the 90 degree twist and see what happens.

Sounds kind of loose though. Have you had any issues since your last adjustment? Are you keeping an eye on the mechanical timing? Wouldn't want to jump a tooth...

roc0487

It wasn't quite a 90 degree or 1/4 turn but almost to that... Mechanical timing was spot on when I put the new belt/water pump/ pulley and spring on. As far as how the car runs, it couldn't be better. I'm about to boost just waiting to get the last few parts...

Anyways, set to tdc and crack the tensioner to loosen the belt and then tighten it back up vs the "3 teeth" method, I talked to a buddy that works at Honda and he said that since the belt isn't OEM, the tension spec logically won't be either, just play around with it until it doesn't sound supercharged or skip teeth. Hope u figure it out man

Little Viking

I just did a timing belt change on my D17. I had an unfortunate experience with the cam shaft bolt breaking... That's a whole different topic...

anyhow, after buttoning everything up the car ran great at idle. As soon as the slightest throttle was applied, I got a whining noise. Ran the car down to the motor specialists (the one's who were able to remove the busted bolt from my cam shaft). Immediately they pin pointed the problem to the timing belt tensioner being too tight. I brought the car home, pulled off the alternator and power steering belts, upper and lower timing belt covers and the harmonic balancer with the woodruff key. Eased off the automatic tensioner bolt and put a pry bar on it (with gentle pressure) moved it over +/- 1/8". Tightened up the bolt and rotated the crank a few times to make sure everything lined up. (note that this takes more than 2 hands as everything is under tension). Buttoned everything up and the car runs fantastic.

As a note to others who may run into this problem. According to the guys at the motor shop I spoke of In the last paragraph (all they do are motors... Nothing else, so they are definitely specialists in this field). You should be able to twist your belts roughly 90 degrees without forcing them to do so. Yes, there will be tension but it shouldn't be difficult to do. There are specific gauges to test belt tension but they are not really necessary.

I'll post my cam shaft dilemma in another thread...

single cammed

im new to this site,i aswell am having a couple problems with my d16z6 spring,i need to loosen it up a little bit,i have everything tdc,crank and cam,i want to get the belt on with the head on it,seein as i just did the head job throughout the week,someone help me,can i get the belt loose enough to put it back on with the head on the car,first time doin it completly by myself,i can the the spring looking down in the timing belt cover,but im not quite sure on how to loosen it???

apexi_rsx

there is a 14mm bolt under the motor mount in the center usually it has a rubber cap over it. emove it and loosen the bolt and rock the crank back toward the firewall alil untill u can get the belt off... if u are removing the belt completely u have to take off the crank pulley and timing cover .

strategy400

I usually use the 3 tooth procedure with no problems. I do make sure that the back of the tensioner and block surfaces are squeaky clean, flat, burr free and a little film of oil on there so everything slides like butter. I'll reach in there and move the tensioner back and forth to make sure it moves freely before the procedure. A sticky tensioner isn't going to adjust properly. Also, you can adjust it to where the belt won't skip and roll the engine over a few times by hand to make sure the belt is perfectly aligned then do the 3 tooth procedure.
It does always seem like the belt is too loose but I guess that's the way it is.

single cammed

no i got in a hurry and put the head back on not even thinking about the tensioner i know it would have been easier with the head off,then get the belt on and tighten it back down,but thanks guys,im goin to mess with it tomorow

Fliptard

mine always whine, cuz I like 'em a lil tight.

strategy400

Clever