hmbtjc29

Hi guys, I'm new to this forum. So....hello! I'm not new to cars, but somewhat new to Hondas. I got a 92 Accord as a runaround and I'm lovin it. Anyway, I'll get to it. I work on a 95 Civic EX quite a bit for a good friend, mostly maintenence stuff, and it is due for a timing belt. I am not scared of doing these...I was a tech at Chrysler and I've done a fair share of t-belts. But there is one big question I have about doing this Civic. When looking up the crank seal on NAPA, they say "w/ Engine Code D16Z6 Oil Pan Gasket Required". I've researched this extensively with no luck including this forum.

So...can anyone tell me why exactly you have to take off the pan to do the crank seal on this particular engine and anything else that might be involved? I'm sure some will say not to mess with it, but there is an oil drip on the bottom of the lower timing cover and with 13 years and 150k on the car and it likely not having been done at the first belt, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to do that while I'm in there. Thanks for any help.

Toroke

The crank seal is opposite the timing stuff (obviously), and there's a cover that goes over it (or rather, around it). The cover is... I believe only 4 bolts. Pretty easy. When you put it back on, just clean the surfaces and run a bead of Hondabond along it.

Edit: sorry, sort of misread your question. You need to take the oil pan off because some of the oil pan studs are going into the main seal cover. Hope this helps.


Modified by Toroke at 12:04 PM 3/29/2008


Modified by Toroke at 12:48 PM 3/29/2008

hmbtjc29

On the FAQ on this forum from someone doing a belt in a del sol with a d16z6 https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=649277 I found a pic where it shows a picture of the crank pulley off (he didn't do the seal), maybe halfway down the pics and I don't see the bolts or some sort of a plate.... Thanks for the response.

Toroke

Maybe I'm confused. But the crank seal is on the other side of the timing belt stuff (by cylinder 4 on the bottom of the engine, just above the oil pan). If you have the oil pan on and not this cover, the pan will stick out an inch or two. Hence, why the cover needs to be removed to replace this seal: the oil pan studs in the cover.

Perhaps we're talking about a different seal? I don't know. Trying to help. Haha.

hmbtjc29

I think you're talking about what I call the rear main seal. The one between the block and the trans. I mean the one that seals the crank pulley. Look at that link where they are doing the belt on the del sol and I think it's the 22nd pic, they show the side of the engine of cyl one with the crank pulley off. There's a seal there. On every other motor, you just pull out the seal and put in a new one but apparently on this particular engine only (D16Z6) you have to pull the pan..... Thanks for the responses.

meandino

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hmbtjc29 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think you're talking about what I call the rear main seal. The one between the block and the trans. I mean the one that seals the crank pulley. Look at that link where they are doing the belt on the del sol and I think it's the 22nd pic, they show the side of the engine of cyl one with the crank pulley off. There's a seal there. On every other motor, you just pull out the seal and put in a new one but apparently on this particular engine only (D16Z6) you have to pull the pan..... Thanks for the responses.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think he is talking about the rear main seal as well. I just did a complete tune up on my D16Z6 engine in my Civic Si. You do not need to remove the oil pan for the crank seal. The books and stuff sometime tells us to do something that we don't need to do. For example, The chilton book told me to get a ball joint remover in order to remove my axles from the tranny. I didn't need it at all. So to answer your question, NO you don't need to remove the oil pan. GL with the job.

meandino

Just remember that the D16Z6 engines have a different timing settings then the other D16 engines. Chilton books shows what needs to be done.

hmbtjc29

Thanks for the info. That's quite a relief...not something I wanted to deal with. I suppose this crank seal goes on like any other then or is there still something else that makes it more of a PITA than other engines? One of the guys I work with has a book on timing belt specs on just about anything ever made, and it shows all the timing marks on this engine, so I should be alright on that front. Thanks again

meandino

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hmbtjc29 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the info. That's quite a relief...not something I wanted to deal with. I suppose this crank seal goes on like any other then or is there still something else that makes it more of a PITA than other engines? One of the guys I work with has a book on timing belt specs on just about anything ever made, and it shows all the timing marks on this engine, so I should be alright on that front. Thanks again </TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope not a PITA. Just get the seal setter to put the new one in so you don't damage the seal itself. GL

blk92_d16

So if it's leaking from around the crank pulley area, it's the oil pump crank seal. You won't have to pull the pan for that, but seeing you're down there already and the higher mileage of the car, why not do 'em both!