Neth

So I finished my engine rebuild on my 93 del sol si after many weekends of few hours here and there. get fluids in it, start it up, lo and behold it starts up the first try! no fluids spewing everywhere sounds good, no tapping after i let it heat up for a while. Looks good, but there's a check engine light I need to investigate so I call it a night.

Get to it today, throw the wheels on intending to move it and finally get some garage space back and I notice that even though it's in Park (automatic) the wheels are turning. uhhh, ****. get the wheels on, start it up, shift around. I hear the transmission seeming to change but the wheels aren't moving in drive or reverse.

So, anyone got any ideas of something I stupidly missed in reassembly? and hopefully it doesn't require removing the engine again... ugh.

crvtectim

Double check trans fluid level first. If it's full, make sure the axles are stabbed all the way in the trans and that neither axle is broken or separated inside the boots. If those are good and you still have no movement, then it's possible you stacked the pump when installing the torque converter. Oh and make sure you bolted up the converter to the flexplate of course.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

...Did you even read what he posted?

taco_hut

Do you see a problem with that response?

if an axle is broken bad enough, being an open diff and all, that broken axle will spin but the wheels wont because its the easiest path for the power to get out of the drive train..

anyway, OP's post is confusing.

"throw the wheels on intending to move it and finally get some garage space back and I notice that even though it's in Park (automatic) the wheels are turning. uhhh, ****. get the wheels on, start it up, shift around. I hear the transmission seeming to change but the wheels aren't moving in drive or reverse."

you noticed the wheels were turning before the wheels were even on?

but seriously, its normal if the wheels or the wheel-less hubs spin while in park, IF the car is in the air. Thats just what happens.

I think you should check the cable @ the gear selector and the bottom of the transmission. Look up that page(s) in the official repair manual, and follow instructions.. Lol I did the same thing and that's what I had done wrong, dunno if you had even touched that when removing your motor, maybe isn't your problem.

but does it hurt to check?

afterthought: did the trans grind or anything? You should try driving it, yo

Neth

It's up in the air, when I was tightening the lugs the wheels spun freely like it was in neutral. They should definitely not move in park or automatics would roll down hills. I can't drive it as there is no turning getting to the wheels, every gear is like neutral. Drive shafts are all the way in, no atf leaking from around them. Low fluid could be an issue, the manual I have said 2.9qts but I'm pretty sure now I think about it more than that came out when it drained. No grinding when I shifted though. Will set in on the ground and pick up some more atf tomorrow. Thanks!

taco_hut

Idk why I was thinking that you had it running. Maybe I was thinking that in neutral, in the air, the wheels will spin? I meant by themselves, I'm gravely sorry about my misunderstanding sir I was derping.

did you make sure the drive shafts are in good condition? If the joints are separated, they would have no way to actually connect the hub to the diff/trans.

that cable I was talking about between the shifter and the tranny? That thing controls what gear its in. If that cable isn't adjusted according to specification, neutral might be park and park might be reverse and up could be down and purple could be delicious. If you pulled the motor off the trans while in the car, and then pulled it out, then I guess its less likely. But if you did drop the subframe to get at the engine, I would deff! Look at that dumb thing and make sure. Mine was misadjusted and park ended up being drive

Neth

While waiting I jumped the service thing to get the cel and its cel 19 which is Automatic transmission lockup control valve. I can't find how resolve this though in the manual i have, anyone perhaps have this?

tony_2018

What manual is this?

Neth

I have the haynes manual and pieces of the service manual for the rebuild and engine removal unfortunately not the troubleshooting piece. The haynes just tells me how to test the solenoid not any possible cause. It seriously says automatic transmission are too complex if it's not low fluid it's not for a home mechanic =(

And 6.2 quarts I shall find, thanks tomkat

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

That's what happens when you get your book from Autozone. Buy/borrow/download a factory service manual. It'll be MUCH bigger than what you have, and will include details on complete automatic and standard transmission rebuilds and diagnostics.

crvtectim

Op, what's that fluid level look like? Don't trust what anybody says to add, just add until the level reads correct on the dipstick. As for the code, double check all connectors on the trans. You may have missed one or it's not fully seated. But the code would not cause a no move condition. Low fluid level will. A stacked pump will too.

Neth

So the dipstick had fluid on it while I was pouring in but after it was mentioned that it could be an issue I checked it the proper way with the engine warmed and nothing showed up.

tony_2018

Go find the helms manual at hondahookup.com.

belairbrian

these should help

crvtectim

Alright, let us know if the trans still doesn't engage after you get the fluid level on.

Neth

It was in fact being low on fluid, took 5 qts to get it on the stick and it now engages. the CEL was the plug for that wasn't all the way connected when i plugged everything back in it hadn't gotten pushed all the way so that resolved also! car is up and running. I think I need to play with the transmission cable because it shifts a little odd from what I remember. thanks for the help guys!

crvtectim

Good deal.