D16Z6 to D15B7 won't start. Compression good, Got fuel & spark.
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D16Z6 to D15B7 won't start. Compression good, Got fuel & spark.
Let me start with some background. Im working on a 95 EX AUTO, I swapped out the bad Z6 and have put in the DX motor, thats what I had available to me. The swap went smooth, but now Im having issues starting the car, it almost acts as if its out of time, but its not. Im using the D16 harness, and the P28 ECU since I dont have a P06-A52 to swap for the auto tranny, I have a P06-A00... but from my reading I found that these don't have a seperate ECU for the tranny. The A/C works on this car & the only crank pulley I had with spaces for 3 belts is the one off of the D16, so I put it on the D15 and used it to do the t-belt. was this the wrong thing to do?
It cranks and cranks away trying to fire and cylinders 2&3 are firing, I can tell this because I put new plugs in and they are now black on the tips and on cylinders 1 & 4 they are clean. I have changed out the distributor, cap, have a new rotor. I have redone the T-belt again to verify its within specs. I put different wires on too. I tried flood starting it as well.
The only code that its throwing is a 21, Vtec. thats obvious as to why.
The buyer is coming to pick it up today and I can't get it to start, I need some help. I work at a Honda dealer, and have had one of the techs there come over to my house to help and he is at a loss for words.
Help a girl out )
It cranks and cranks away trying to fire and cylinders 2&3 are firing, I can tell this because I put new plugs in and they are now black on the tips and on cylinders 1 & 4 they are clean. I have changed out the distributor, cap, have a new rotor. I have redone the T-belt again to verify its within specs. I put different wires on too. I tried flood starting it as well.
The only code that its throwing is a 21, Vtec. thats obvious as to why.
The buyer is coming to pick it up today and I can't get it to start, I need some help. I work at a Honda dealer, and have had one of the techs there come over to my house to help and he is at a loss for words.
Help a girl out )
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Re: D16Z6 to D15B7 won't start. Compression good, Got fuel & spark. (Red89LudeSi)
have you confirmed that all the plugs are firing?have you held each one against the head while cranking the car to confirm this?is the firing order correct?
are you getting fuel in all cylinders?
do you know the history of the D15?did it run before you got it?
did you check the timing belt by using the mark on the crank cog against the arrow on the oil pump?
Chris
are you getting fuel in all cylinders?
do you know the history of the D15?did it run before you got it?
did you check the timing belt by using the mark on the crank cog against the arrow on the oil pump?
Chris
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Re: D16Z6 to D15B7 won't start. Compression good, Got fuel & spark. (TeamNextGenChris)
thanks for your reply. I did check each plug against the valve cover to make sure each one had spark. the firing order is 1 3 4 2 , that part I have correct. I got the D15 from a good friend of mine, it ran perfect when he had it in his hatch, he just swapped it for a b18C a little over a year ago, so this motor has been sitting.
I checked the t-belt like you described as well. I hate this car. yes, Im getting fuel in all four cylinders.
I checked the t-belt like you described as well. I hate this car. yes, Im getting fuel in all four cylinders.
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Re: D16Z6 to D15B7 won't start. Compression good, Got fuel & spark. (Red89LudeSi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Red89LudeSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for your reply. I did check each plug against the valve cover to make sure each one had spark. the firing order is 1 3 4 2 , that part I have correct. I got the D15 from a good friend of mine, it ran perfect when he had it in his hatch, he just swapped it for a b18C a little over a year ago, so this motor has been sitting.
I checked the t-belt like you described as well. I hate this car. yes, Im getting fuel in all four cylinders.</TD></TR></TABLE>
also,are you starting that firing order at the correct point on the distributor?meaning,you don't have the wires one spot or more off,but still in the proper order?
chris
I checked the t-belt like you described as well. I hate this car. yes, Im getting fuel in all four cylinders.</TD></TR></TABLE>
also,are you starting that firing order at the correct point on the distributor?meaning,you don't have the wires one spot or more off,but still in the proper order?
chris
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Re: (D@nnY)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D@nnY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cam timing..different cam gears different timing belts</TD></TR></TABLE>
do you mean the crank pulley?if so,i think that the TDC mark on all of them is indexed the same...regardless,that's why i asked if she had used the marks on the cog and oil pump to make sure it's right.
BTW-forgot to mention above that i have ran a B7 off a P28 for months,so that shouldn't be your problem.
Chris
do you mean the crank pulley?if so,i think that the TDC mark on all of them is indexed the same...regardless,that's why i asked if she had used the marks on the cog and oil pump to make sure it's right.
BTW-forgot to mention above that i have ran a B7 off a P28 for months,so that shouldn't be your problem.
Chris
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Re: (TeamNextGenChris)
I didnt read the entire post before. you need to do a compression test and verify all 4 cylinders ahve compression...
has the motor been sitting for a while?
poor some oil in each cylinder to give it the compresion to start...when it starts the compresion rings will un sieze and it will run....
has the motor been sitting for a while?
poor some oil in each cylinder to give it the compresion to start...when it starts the compresion rings will un sieze and it will run....
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the firing order is correct. 1342 starting at the upper left point. I did a compression test, all cylinders are within specs. I already poured oil in each cylinder, I was given that tip last night, and its still not running.
It has been sitting or a little over a year, but it was fine when he pulled it out. When I did the timing belt I used the crank cog and the oil pump like described above.
I think that Im going to try getting into my dealership and see if I can get a known good distributor off of the shelf. this is driving me insane. I've been trying to get it to start since Thursday night. I was told that the distributor that was given to me yesterday was good, but who knows, I rather rule that out with new parts.
It has been sitting or a little over a year, but it was fine when he pulled it out. When I did the timing belt I used the crank cog and the oil pump like described above.
I think that Im going to try getting into my dealership and see if I can get a known good distributor off of the shelf. this is driving me insane. I've been trying to get it to start since Thursday night. I was told that the distributor that was given to me yesterday was good, but who knows, I rather rule that out with new parts.
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why dont you pull the fuel rail and crank the motor and make sure all 4 injectors are firing and arent clogged.... also make sure one isnt locked open
also make sure the plugs arent fouled out..ive seen a car not start due to fouled plugs a few times...may also be weak spark
also make sure the plugs arent fouled out..ive seen a car not start due to fouled plugs a few times...may also be weak spark
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Re: (D@nnY)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D@nnY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why dont you pull the fuel rail and crank the motor and make sure all 4 injectors are firing and arent clogged.... also make sure one isnt locked open
also make sure the plugs arent fouled out..ive seen a car not start due to fouled plugs a few times...may also be weak spark</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's not a good idea considering the only thing holding the injectors in the rail would be the pressure fit of the o-rings on the injectors.have one or two of those pop out while cranking the car,spray fuel everywhere(including the open injector ports into the cylinder),and you could have a much bigger problem than it not starting.
if an injector is stuck open,it will quickly wet foul the plug.you can use a mechanic's stethoscope,touching the injector body to see if it's firing.
chris
also make sure the plugs arent fouled out..ive seen a car not start due to fouled plugs a few times...may also be weak spark</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's not a good idea considering the only thing holding the injectors in the rail would be the pressure fit of the o-rings on the injectors.have one or two of those pop out while cranking the car,spray fuel everywhere(including the open injector ports into the cylinder),and you could have a much bigger problem than it not starting.
if an injector is stuck open,it will quickly wet foul the plug.you can use a mechanic's stethoscope,touching the injector body to see if it's firing.
chris
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