jhink92

I have a 1993 Civic ex coupe. D16z6 motor, 5 speed. As the title says, I have concluded my number one and two cylinder are getting no fuel. New plugs, rotor, cap, wires, icm, main relay, plugs and wires are ngk. Did all that before this problem. Im driving home and i lose massive power and it idles like shiz if you ease off the throttle. If not it cuts out completely. All cylinders are getting spark, but 1 and 2, when you pull the plug it looks like nothings happened, no gas smell nothing at all. First thing i tried was swapping 2 and 3s connectors to the fuel injectors, still dead on cylinder 2 (and 1 naturally). 3 is pumping away. So then i swapped cylinders 1 and 2s injectors with 3 and 4s injectors thinking 3 and 4 should now be dead. But 1 and 2 are still dead. 3 and 4 fire away. I also did a resistance test on all the injectors, they all read the same. .12 or .012 i cant remember exactly but you get it.And today i did a circuit test on the fuel injectors connectors from the cars side, not the injector side while the car was running or somewhat running that is. The test light was flashing steady except it wasnt really the brightest but on all four it was an even flash and a steady consistency of flashes. The brightness could just be because its a harbor freight light and its just doesnt get bright in time before the pulse goes away.

jhink92

Apologies for the long winded paragraph. I was tired and i was having troubles logging in / getting my password reset so i tried club civic and nobody over there seemed to care, so i finally had enough time to wait for the link to reset my password ( took like 45 minutes or so ) and practically copy and pasted the original post along with updated diagnostics.

Understandable correct?

I forget which ohm setting i had it on, i believe it was 2k or 200k. I did both and all it does is add another zero lol so which ever makes sence to spec.

And you are correct with "car" side being confusing, i was tired. I did in fact mean the harness side of the connector.

What i did was, i took a 12volt DC circuit test light and connected each probe to one of the metal contacts or the harness, the positive and negative while the car is running to watch for the light to tell me whether they are all getting the correct pulse.

Low pressure is something i was thinking, I just was not sure how to test it yet. I only get a couple hours a day to tinker on it. For example, i was unaware that the civics even had a filter test spot. Info on how to do that or what kind of tools i need for that would be appreciated. Even a link, as for now i will be conducting a compression test. I will search for info after i do that if it comes back with positive results.

And no sir i do not have the helms manual for my car, or know of the factory service manual methods.\

I will be doing some searching later! But any more helpful information will be appreciated.

eHMxhACk

iTrader: (17)

Google it! You can find a free copy pretty easily!





eH.

jhink92

I appreciate all the info guys, but my slack self finally got around to getting a compression tester and testing all the cylinders today.

Cylinder 4: 185psi

Cylinder 3: 182psi

Cylinder 2: 30psi

Cylinder 1: 15psi

Thats not good news.....

ferio-ichi3

I had the same issue with my b16, took the head off and put atf in the combustion chamber and the the cylinder walls,. Waited a while and seen there was no more atf in one of the chambers. .

jhink92

Yeah not a fuel issue... sorry about that. Figured the plugs didnt look like they were burning it was fuel related, and I just bought a compression tester or that would have been first ya know. But yes, more tests to come. I really wanted the motor to make it to tax time, because I was going to put a b16 in it

jhink92

But to be correct....there is no way, any sensor, any type of fuel problem....any vacuum leak can trick a compression gauge right. I dont think so but figured i should check with the honda gurus lol

jhink92

I agree with you. Now is there anyway a head gasket can blow that way without mixing oil and coolant. Because my coolent is clean along with my oil...well besides for it being slightly dirty. The car has always burned a little oil. About a quart a week.

I would not doubt the head gasket though. The previous owner changed it with an advanced auto special and he didnt seem to be the brightest crayon in the pack. After going behind him and fixing multiple issues he tried to fix poorly. I only have 900 dollars into the car so though so its not an entire loss. But she has been ragged out clearly.

jhink92

And that was $600 for the car and a total of $300 worth of tune up stuff and things like the Main Relay.

jhink92

where the two cylinders are almost touching... Looks like a pretty good weak point. That sucks.

firehawk618

For future reference here's a way to do a relatively quick and dirty injector test.

IF your fuel rail has clips securing the injectors to it this will work.

Simply pull the whole fuel rail with the injectors attached AND clips in place.

Secure the rail a few inches in the air *use help if needed*, place a towel or something to catch the fuel under the injectors. Crank the car over, you should see fuel spray in a pattern from all the injectors. A couple revolutions is all that is needed to see if they're spraying and if the pattern is anywhere near normal.

Clips in place is VERY important because the pressurized fuel rail can easily blow the injectors off and spew a lot of fuel if you remove the clips or the fuel rail doesn't use them.

I am relatively new to Hondas and do not know if these D series engines use the clips or not.

ferio-ichi3

They do not, and i did the test before.. got a bigger fuel pump too, shot the injector off. Have yet to find it. This was weeks ago.

jhink92

ferio-ichi3 ... thats funny haha. Anywho guys, found my problem. The head gasket was in good shape. Now on the other hand one of the exhaust valves for cylinder one has a whole in it, and three sets of exhaust valves are closed while one is open.

Cylinder 1- closed
Cylinder 2- closed
Cylinder 3-Open
Cylinder 4- Closed

That tells me that based upon cylinder one and four being in the up position and cylinder 2 and 3 being in the down position. That cylinder twos exhaust valve isnt opening or something along those lines. Something has to be wrong with it since it only has 30psi compression.

On another note, i did the wet test with atf for the rings. I left it for about 20 minutes and it looked like the levels didnt decrease any. Also the piston heads and cylinder walls are pretty clean and look very very good!

jhink92

In terms of difficulty. From a scale of 1-10 what would you rate changing valves, seals and springs on my motor. Ill be replacing all of the valves, by what i can tell. Even the valves that are working look like theyre about to fail. So might as well do all of them.

tony_2018

Damn, the video from this guy is definitely informative.

jhink92

Hey TomCat39 .. i appreciate everything yall posted for me. My brother who is the skilled mechanic of the family just had his first baby boy so he wont be able to help any longer. On the other hand i got a fantastic deal from a pretty reputable shop. The mechanic has been doing Honda motor work and rebuilds since the 80s and i happened to be friends with the shop owner. So my little D16z6 is getting an overhaul for $450. Thats the Head and the Block :D

jhink92

Also my apologies for not getting on and responding. Both of my jobs got crazy so iv been working 60-85 hr weeks and trying to get work done on the Honda has been killing.