deviant1

is there anything special needed to put a d16y8 manual tranny on an automatic d16y7? i heard something about an intake manifold. what about ecu? axles? anything?

deviant1

bump

ek9 ferio

no not really, except for the main parts: Clutch pedal, shift linkage, clutch master cylinder, hydraulic clutch lines, clutch, flywheel, tranny...feels like im forgetting something else. But far as the intake manifold, axels, and ecu, u can re-use what u already have unless u already have the dx 5spd ecu on hand. if not the automatic ecu will still work, but it might run alil wierd. trust me i know this stuff man, i went thru it last summer. anyother questions, let me know i'll be happy to help ya. later

blackhatchy

also, try searching. if you want to do an auto to manual conversion, there are a couple threads that have decent write-ups

deviant1

bizzump

Del_Slo_1

ek9's right. You basically need all the drivetrain parts that the manual has but automatic doesn't have. Pedals and all that crap. Automatic ECU will work but will throw a code...ignore it. A buddy of mine did a manual swap and used an auto ECU...car didn't have any carpet, so there was a cool little red blinky light. Don't let it bother you, the car will run fine.

deviant1

but if i wanted the manual ecu, would i get the y8 or y7 one? also, would the check engine light go off if i kept the auto ecu and unplugged the auto blue box under the dash? what about reverse lights and taking the ket out of the ignition?

deviant1

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ek9 ferio

use the y7 b/c u do not have vtec. its receiving no signal for vtec. if u use the y8's ecu w/ a non vtec motor, ur rev limit WILL cut off at 5,000rpm no matter what. such as idle n then reving it, it'll bog n won't let u pass 5k and as well as driving it. No the check engine light WILL NOT go off if u unplug the auto blue box under the dash. if u want to make it easy for u, keep the Automatic shifter control module. that'll make having ur reverse light working again by tapping into the wires.

deviant1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek9 ferio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">use the y7 b/c u do not have vtec. its receiving no signal for vtec. if u use the y8's ecu w/ a non vtec motor, ur rev limit WILL cut off at 5,000rpm no matter what. such as idle n then reving it, it'll bog n won't let u pass 5k and as well as driving it. No the check engine light WILL NOT go off if u unplug the auto blue box under the dash. if u want to make it easy for u, keep the Automatic shifter control module. that'll make having ur reverse light working again by tapping into the wires.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what about the EX manual tranny with the auto Y7 intake manifold? does anything need to hook up to it from each other? should i be concerned at all about changeing to a y8 manifold with all this talk about 2 or 3 wire idle control valves, etc.... you know, those differences. or is that only if i use the y8 ecu?

ek9 ferio

your intake manifold has nothing to deal w/ your tranny swap. it would be a good upgrade on the y7 though. it feels alot better on my y7 engine, u feel the pull a lil more. n at the end of the swap u'll just have like 2-3 parts of the engine wire harness dangling, don't cut em' just let em' be. cutting may short parts of the engine to the ecu. it won't affect ur car in any way.

brooksto

you only have to deal with swapping the intake manifold over and rewiring for the iacv difference if you have a d16y8 motor. Both auto y8, manual/auto y7 use a 3 wire iacv so I would stay with the y7 manifold, just to avoid headaches.