sdobson910

I bought the 99 EX with a 99 GSR swap and everything ran great no issues at all. I pulled the GSR to swap it into my hatch, but I needed a motor to put in the EX to use as a daily. My hatch is a DX model with the D16Y7 and I had a Greddy Turbo Kit on it tuned with Emanage. I pulled both motors and left the complete harness connected to the Y7. Put the Y7 in the EX and now it wont start. The starter will turn and turn but no start, brand new NGK wires and plugs. The dizzy cap and rotor look good, kinda running out of things to try to start it. Im using the Y7 ecu and harness which came out of a running car. The motor did sit for about a month or so but it came out of a running car into a car that had no mechanical problems. Ive checked and double checked and it seems to be all plugged up right. Any ideas or input would be great. I need to get this thing running so I can get to the other swap.

Former User

Spark? Fuel? CEL codes? Plug wires in correct firing order?

sdobson910

I am pretty sure its getting fuel, although no tester to try it. It did throw a cel I was gonna try jumping the ecu and looking at the beeps to determine the code. Plugs and wires are definitely in the right order. But i'll double check all of that. As for checking for spark and fuel can I just hold the wire just inside the tube to see if it sends a spark? Ive done that on four wheelers but never cars. Also is there a way to check for fuel without having some sort of pressure sensor?

sdobson910

Checked the Codes and I jumped the ecu and the thing flashed like 19 long flashes before I stopped to come check my computer. It seems the codes shouldnt go that high so Im wondering why it just keeps flashing and probably would have flashed 30 more times?

Former User

Codes repeat, so you may be reading code 10 (one long flash), which should not prevent the engine from starting. Post a video of the blinking CEL.

When you turn the key from off to ON(II), do you hear the fuel pump prime (buzzing/humming noise) for 2 seconds?

Click the spark link in my signature.

Firing order:

sdobson910

Video of the Cel flashing.

No I dont hear the fuel pump, but Ive never heard it on any of the two civics or integra Ive owned. And the fuel pump was working fine 5 days ago when I started this swap. I'll see about the spark, just gotta run back out and try it.

sdobson910

By the way thanks for the help.

sdobson910

Well even though ron is the only one checking this thread or least giving input im gonna keep updating cause maybe somebody else has some insight. The car is not getting fuel but definitely has spark. I replaced the fuel filter thinking it was clogged but (was going to anyways) but still no start. Cannot hear the fuel pump prime when key on, in II location. I did check the fuse and its fine for the pump so its gotta be between the relay and the actual pump. But has anyone had this happen where its working fine a week ago and now its not? Its not like it sat for a month or two or more. It doesnt make much sense that in a few days it can just not work.

Former User

The video indeed shows that code 10 is thrown, though this would not cause the no-start problem.

Are you sure the fuel pump does not prime? Remove the fuel fill cap and put your ear to the hole while a buddy turns the key from off to ON(II). If you don't hear the fuel pump buzz for 2 seconds, this would confirm your conclusion. If so, do these tests:

After you remove the glove box, the main relay is located on the right. Unplug the main relay connector and measure voltage to body ground at terminals 5 (Yel/Grn wire; key in ON(II)) and 7 (Wht/Blk wire; key off). Do you measure battery voltage at both terminals?

ReDHaTcHyGuy

what year was your DX? i know the 99-00ex's had something diff to do with fuel... i cant rem off hand but i think it was something with the pump

sdobson910

00 DX yea I checked the relay with the one out of my hatch and it doesnt prime. The relay does click, I dont have my tester to see if voltage is going to it but I know the relay was fine on the hatch.

sdobson910

Bumping my older thread I gave up starting this car for a while. But today it was nice and I figured I would do some more trouble shooting. Now I noticed on the driver side where the harness connects to the interior harness, there is a cut wire. I dont know how I missed it!! I am wondering what the wire is for, because looking on two other EK's (both OBD2B) and they have the same blue wire going into like a dumby plug. Its a black rubber connector but it goes nowhere. Any insight on what it is and do I just ground it to the chassis since I dont have the connector anymore? I posted a picture showing the single blue wire coming of C101 connector.

sdobson910

Hmm hopefully someones off work today and can help.

Slopoke

I believe that blue wire is for testing the Tach signal. It is supposed to be there.

Odd question, but is the thermostat housing ground hooked up? I know you said you didnt remove the harness at all, but without that ground connected the fuel pump will not run.

I've seen this happen quite a few times.

canadaek

what year did they start using an immobilizer ? what year is your hatch ?

apexi_rsx

that code means code 10... it just keeps repeating the same code over and over..which is iat sensor problem... shouldn't have anything to do with why its not starting though.. you will need to diagnose it when u get it started

sdobson910

The hatch is a 2000, theres no immobilizers on civic ecus from from ek's that I know of. The main harness ground on the thermo housing is hooked up I double checked it and sanded down the terminals. The IAT was not hooked up thats why it threw that code, but thats fine and fixed now. I just noticed today that the EX harness that was in the car was cut at C101 on the eng. harness side, and wired manually to the blue wire on the C303 main harness side. Turns out thats not the Tach Test which I originally thought it was. With that broken signal in the wiring Im betting thats my problem. So tomorrow Im gonna swap harnesses to the EX harness and wire up manually to the blue wire. Hopefully this works.

canadaek

good luck.

honda4life89

i hate to bump an old thread but i now own this car. i was supplied with a cdm d16y7 harness during the trade of the car. i swapped out the harness and the fuel pump still won't prime. i used a known good ecu and main relay and the fuel pump still doesn't get fuel. i hooked up the fuel pump to the battery directly and the fuel pump primes. i also regrounded the fuel pump and it still didn't make a difference, i cleaned up all the grounds in the car and get nothing. car will crank but won't fire, doesn't have spark anymore needs a new dizzy. im most worried about the car priming. ive tested the main relay for power out of it and it reads batter voltage, even to the wires where the pump is it just won't prime. any ideals? help would be greatly appreciated.

honda4life89

at the front of the car, the main harness in the one picture the blue wire is still cut.

honda4life89

bump know one wants to help???

HondaPartsHero

What ecu are you running?

honda4life89

p2t the stock d16y7 ecu

Former User

The P2T ECU is the stock ECU for an Si with a B16a2 engine.

honda4life89

let me go double check