Sheela96

I recently discovered that the stock header in my 98 LX with the factory d16y7 5spd MT has fallen victim to the well-known crack and will need replaced. Stock headers seem to be expensive, since most of them have a cat included. I found one without a cat (http://www.carparts.com/details/Hond...f-7dfce79156e6), but don't know enough to confidently determine whether or not it will fit properly.

I'm looking for opinions on replacement options. My local area doesn't have any sort of emissions testing, so that isn't really a concern. I'm trying to repair this on a budget too, so putting in high-end headers is out of the question.

These are some of the options I have considered:
1) Dirt-cheap full system replacement.
Has mixed reviews. Seems to be a "you get what you pay for" kind of deal with inconsistent quality. Not sure if it's worth that much risk just to save a few dollars.

2) Megan Racing header/downpipe
Megan Racing Headers Honda Civic EX/LX/DX [D Series] (88-00) MR-SSH-D16
my last civic had a full Megan system with stock header, so I am somewhat familiar with their products. Not sure if it would be a direct fit or if I would have to do some chop work on my current exhaust.

3) Weapon R one-piece header
1998 Honda Civic Weapon R Stainless Steel Race Header
Similar to my reservations with the Megan header/downpipe, I am not sure if I would need to modify the current system to make it fit. Additionally, I have reservations about spending that much on a header if I'm just going to hook it up to a stock exhaust/muffler setup.

Personal experience stories are appreciated. Opinions are welcome.

86azms3

You don't want to spend much, but you're looking at 300 dollar headers, and cheap 200 dollar full exhaust junk. Also the first one you posted is for an ex engine.

It's slow so don't worry about performance or claim to be performance parts.

Don't delete your cat, it will smell, be a louder, and be obnoxious all around. Ie. a ricer.

Get a dorman header for this engine at less then 200 bucks which should bolt up


I went the magnaflow catted header, more pricey, but better build quality and stainless to last.

Sheela96

I'm not really concerned about the sound it makes as long as there isn't a crack in my header.
Let's say I want to go the ultra cheap route. Is there a high-temp liquid weld I could use to patch the crack? I honestly only expect the engine to hold out for about two winters anyway.

Former User

Manifold cracks can be welded in many cases.

Caoboy

It is a bit hard to weld cast iron though, more than likely it will crack again or the weld will fail.

OP get an EX header and cat, relocate the O2 sensors down to underneath the car, and enjoy what should have been OEM in the first place. You can find these used at a JY for pretty cheap.

Former User

I've read that welding works, though if the weld failed later, it's quite possible that members did not post a follow up.

Caoboy

It depends on how they had it welded. Using electrodes usually doesn't work, or works for a while, then the area around it cracks because it was weakened if it wasn't pre/post heated and cooled properly.

Slapping some booger welds is just a band-aid, and it might work to pass smog, but it'll fail.

Fusion welding (oxy-acetylene) it is the best way, but again, without proper pre/post heat and cooling it can fail.

"hardest to weld, easiest to crack"

Cheapest way would be to slap some quik steel/heat steel on it and save the money to invest in an EX header+cat or a B series swap

Former User

Good to know.

tony_2018

Good to know, but I doubt the usual muffler shop doesn't care.

Sheela96

I think I'm going to hit it with a $10 bottle of quiksteel and just patch every 6-8 months as needed until the motor takes a **** on me.
The biggest reservation I have with that is that the highest temperature stuff I can find is resistant up to 500 degrees F. I don't know EXACTLY how hot my manifold gets, but I know that in the instance of a clogged cat, they have been known to glow red, which happens to iron and steel around 900F. With that information (and the knowledge that I drive a little harder than the average commuter), I figure I will regularly hit at least 700. Is there a magic product out there that will work at temperatures that high, or will I just have to settle with fixing a failed jb weld/quiksteel patch a couple times a year until I swap the engine or replace the header?

Caoboy

You can find some quik steel that is rated for high heat, I just used some on my exhaust manifold (huge crack lol)

This is what I used :

Sheela96

I didn't find that on their website. Of course, their website is kind of hard to navigate ...
Sounds good. Thanks for the link!

chrysler kid

I will just add my $.02

Use the quick steel as a temporary fix, I do not advise using cheap ebay header and cat replacement's as they do not add power and more often than not will hurt the cars resale value.

I replaced my manifold and cat with the walker replacement unit from amazon and it has held up better than the original And does not show any signs of wear.

Aftermarket parts on a daily driven car can often add to maintenance issues and repair bills unless you decide to be your own mechanic.

Cheers

Sheela96

I don't trust mechanics, so if I have the tools to do the job (and 9 times out of 10 I do), then I am my own mechanic.

The engine has 186k on it and I don't plan on putting all of the effort in to try and make it hit 300. I'm just shooting to get through this winter so I can save up for a b16 swap by next summer.
I have decided against using cheap, generic headers and if the quiksteel doesn't do the job, I will look into your suggestion.

I appreciate the feedback.