MTracing

like the title says i might be buying a 99 ek with a y7. I was wondering if they are good for anything? The rod is knocking so it would need a rebuild... but i am not as much on funds as i had hoped for a b series. and i was wondering can it be rebuilt and do something with it for a turbo later on? or is it better yet to just save up for a b series?

Axatax

All depends what you want.

You can only go so far with a D16 before it becomes a money pit. When all is said and done, a swap will probably be cheaper than boost and yield nearly the same power assuming that engine isn't heavily built.

I have the same engine (Y7) with a turbo setup, and I wouldn't hesitate to do it again - but I'm the original owner of the car, maintained it, and know its history. And I've had no problems with it whatsoever after the initial gremlins were worked through during the build.

I've also spent much more on this setup than a swap would have cost, and I think any turbo setup will if you really want to do it right.

I like it because all the extra gadgetry and complexity of the turbo setup appeals to my personality. It's really as simple as that, and the car is a blast to drive.

Swap'DShuttle

D's are cheaper to build hands down. If you aren't shooting for 500 whp+ or making a strict track car, paying for a B, bottom end kit, and boosting it is silly.

furious94ls

You aren't buying an EK.

jbpnoman

Y7 = EJ6, for clarity's sake.

You can safely (and easily) pull 200whp out of those motors with a small turbo, with zero internal work done. 300 is attainable with a couple thousand in the rotating assembly. Anything past that will be stupid expensive, and will also get stupid for DD use.

I also have a Y7, currently running 10PSI through a TD04H-19T, and the combination is just flat out fun. You can piece together a reliable, solid turbo kit yourself for ~$1500, or buy a decent pre-made kit for ~$3000. D16Y7s are also a dime a dozen at scrap yards, so if anything ever goes horrifically wrong, you can easily (and cheaply) get replacement parts. Blocks go for ~$50, complete rotating assemblies ~$100.

Parts are cheap, aftermarket support is definitely there, and gas mileage is solid.

MTracing

Wow, thanks for the reply guys. Fast reply. I got out of the Honda game for a little. Now back into it. It's a 99 hatch with a y7, but what you guys are saying is just to rebuild the bottom end? I just want a fun little car.. Maybe putting down 250whp. Somewhere around there. With that I assume I can rebuild it with oem internals. What would I have to replace to achieve that? I would already do rods, and rings, maybe pistons, head gasket, how about up at the head?

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Swap the head/IM with a Y8. Build the bottom end with something like a Vitara/Eagle combo and boost it. Upgrade the clutch. You won't get 250hp N/A. Ever. Otherwise swap it. Think H2B.

Libertariat

Don't get hung up on numbers. Your goal is to go fast, not print out an arbitrary number on a dyno sheet.

ARP rods on a healthy y7 with a y8 head can easily make 200-230 safely. My tuner does it all the time.

That will make for a very quick car, much more than that is honestly dangerous for the street.

jbpnoman

You don't need ARP head bolts, or a Y8 head for 200whp. I boosted my factory motor with a Y8 IM swap, and put down 200 without any problems. The head bolts would definitely be best practice, but aren't necessary.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

I would have to agree with this 100%. 200hp on a Civic is surprisingly quick. Make sure the engine is healthy before doing anything.

jbpnoman

Scary quick, especially when you're hitting full boost at 3000. If people want to call vtec warp speed, a 200whp turbo Civic is like stargate hopping.

MTracing

I was planing to boost it later on and thinking at not going over 250 for now on boost. I've looked into the y8 head swap. But my question with that is do I use y8 dizzy? And y7 or y8 Ecu? I also read you have to wire up Vtec? Where does that wire into? And I use y8 headgasket?

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Check the FAQs for write ups.

Libertariat

Correct, it's more of a "just because" precaution.

OP:

My H2B makes just over 200whp and it's plenty quick. Torque steer adds a new dimension to driving fast. I'm not sure I'm ready for more power, lol.

MTracing

Thanks for all the help! I really appreciate it. And how much are those h2b costing you guys? I wouldn't mind. But I found a y8 for 350$ where I live and it runs according to seller. No leaks. I was wondering what's would be better y7/y8 or y8?

Libertariat

You can probably drop one in for as little as $3000, or spend $10,000 like I did.

But I have a $2300 transmission, bought everything new, good header, TB, etc, stuff you don't "have to have."

My original budget for parts was $3500, and I decided to go the distance and I've been very happy.

Engine was $900 shipped. You can H22's for $500-$1000 and get questionable quality, wasn't something that was worth it to me to gamble on.


Trans $300-$2500
QSD kit $750 new, not much different used.


That's the bulk of the swap. It's literally a B-series + H2B kit/Engine. It even uses B-series mounts.

MTracing

Ya I have owned a h22 and those are some powerful engines... No I can't even picture it in a ek! But that's a little touch for what my budget for a new engine. But I am jealous!!

Libertariat

I saved money for 3 years to do it. Put the labor and exhaust work on an interest free credit card.

Gotta be patient

Swap'DShuttle

Ummm....What???

A couple thousand for a bottom end kit? We're not talking about K's here. A built D making 400+ will cost around 4k total. Including tuning depending on where/ who/ if you know.

PedroTLimabr

Hi I have a D16y7 and I have it turbo charged for the last 3 years. with 0.7 BAR. I have only 2 problemas with it
1st some times get some loss of oil
2nd My fun get over when I reach 200Km/h and the speed limiter cuts the power.

I Use a T3-T4 Turbo (0.75 Bar), Intercooler, 3" exauste system, 2" intake, and an extra Fuel injection in the line. ( original from a Chevy V6 engine).

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=5ddc62b34d

frost_white_ej1

phearable.net had a d16 with this setup with stock sleeve that made 400+whp


Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

400hp N/A Y7? Link to build please.

Way to keep bumping old threads too.

doctorake

OLD THREAD

96 Civic LX

hey i was wondering, if I am to rebuild my stock D16Y7, would just replacing the piston rings/head bolts/honing the cylinder/rod bearings(if damaged)/all the gaskets(just to be safe)/valve seals/cleaning up the head for carbon build up around the valves especially, should be suffice? are there special tricks to a D16Y7 that i should know about? i did all of that on my 01 Celica GT http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/13...ption-fix.html which seemed to have worked great since the engine only had an oil burning issue, my stock D16Y7 (have a backup D16Y7 that a friend rebuild but without the right torque specs so will be using that as spare parts, the cylinder wall and pistons looked really good on this engine and the head was in fantastic shape as well, but i have no intention of removing my block out of the car unless its damaged) runs great but has an oil consumption issue (0.5 quartz every 500 miles) that i am not happy with because i am looking for a 10k/year OCI on Amsoil/GC/PU, been taking 24 credit hours a semester(even in summer), but took 12 this semester (Fall) to fix my cars, my 01 celica gt is done and my 00 celica gts is on this oil consumption (0.8 quartz every 3000 miles) as well and will be going through the same process as stated above...i take it to Minnesota (200 in gas round trip) to a toyotanation.com forum member who fixed my GT, and his labor is 400-600 and done in 12-15 hours, 200 in parts on the things i listed above, so around 1k when everything is said and done. my intention is to have a strong Stock(if better) Daily Driver for next 10 years like my GT, while me and my wife finish college.

Thank You for any help.

B_Swapped93

Start a new thread 96 civic lx .

also TL:DR