SL0RD

First off I just want to let you know my motor is a D16Y7 with a D16Y8 Intake manifold and a D16Y8 ECU

just jumped the service plug to retrieve the CEL codes and here they are

3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
17 VSS - speed sensor
22 VTEC pressure valve
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater wire (black wires)
90 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak

Other than 22 I have no idea what is causing all of these codes, the car runs, everything seems to be working fine, other than it randomly will bog down when accelerating but that just started happening today and I'm 90% sure most of these were already thrown before today.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Which ones return when you reset the ECU?

SL0RD

So I reset the ECU and now ill im getting is 22 the Vtec one.

The car is still running like **** though, it just started doing this today, its almost like somethings wrong with the MAP sensor. if im just sitting with the car in neutral it revs up fine, but if i put it in gear and start to accelerate it drives really rough and bogged down, but if i stomp the gas it drives fine.

HondaPartsHero

Wait a y7 with a y8 ecu? Can't do that bro

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Missed that. I thought I read he had a Y8 head. Get a P2E ECU.

SL0RD

Why can't I do that? its been running fine for 5 months now, it just hits a rev limiter where vtec kicks in

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

That's why. You're running a VTEC ECU that's looking for VTEC components that are not there. That's why the "rev limit" kicks in because when it tries to activate VTEC it physically cannot and throws a code. It'll run but like crap.

SL0RD

well it did run a lot better than it is now the rev lemit at vtec wasnt a biggie for me, i just need it to get to work and back, next time im home im putting my vtec head on, it should run a lot better than it is now though even without vtec

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

And I can drive with my feet on the steering wheel. Doesn't make it a good idea. Run the proper ECU for your setup.

SL0RD

Like I said, this is only temporary until I get home to put my vtec head on.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Yes. We've established that. That was directed more towards the other guy.

fleabag

Is this auto or manual ecu? I'm pretty sure the other reason why you can't run with a Y8 ECU on a Y7 engine is because the IAC is three wire for the y7 and 2 wire for the y8 because of the different designs.

fleabag

Because you're getting a CEL for all of those things, you need to understand that if you don't get this fixed ASAP, you will destroy your catalytic converter VERY QUICKLY and your fuel economy will be absolutely terrible. Your car right now is running in limp mode and is completely ignoring all of its sensors, running on it's own pre-defined fuel maps. To give you an idea what happens when just one sensor, say the map sensor is disconnected/not being 'listened to', at idle on a warmed up engine, your GPH might increase from .22 to 2.5 gph. Yes, it literally 'dumps' fuel into the combustion chamber with out any regard because it has no idea what is going on. I know this because I have an ODB-II reader and can read first hand what happens when various sensors get disconnected. You practically are driving with NONE of your sensors working or being read from. Since you have done this swap, one thing you should know is that you're using the wrong wiring harness. You need a D16Y8 M/T engine wiring harness. Some sensors/solenoids will simply not work until you make this change such as the IAC.

Arthas

Get the correct ECU.

SL0RD

As I said in my first post, its also in the thread title. Im using the D16Y8 Intake manifold so the only real difference is the fact that Vtec is not there. I have the 2 wire y8 IAC and im using the y8 harness. It is a manual though, I forgot to mention that

SL0RD

After I reset the ECU i just drove down the street, maybe 2 or 3 minutes and the only code that came back was 22, but it was still running like ****. I haven't checked it again yet, I might go do that now cause I drove to work and back maybe another 10 minutes or so. I should probably mention it's been raining all day, and it is kinda running like it did a while ago when i went through a deep puddle by accident. Driving home from work tonight it seemed fine.

SL0RD

I just went out and checked it again, 22 is the only one being thrown. I'll check it again tomorrow after I drive a bit longer, also I noticed my ABS light was flashing as well, I haven't noticed anything wrong with my ABS are there codes for that too?

fleabag

dirty, damaged electrical ground is likely cause... or... maybe you should check your connections to the ecu as just wiggling the wire a little bit might change the way the car runs. Too bad the harness wasn't checked before you installed it.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Then it's not running fine. If it's throwing a code then it means you are operating your car with a deficiency. If you lived in an area with inspections you would not pass. If it was fine to run any ECU you wanted then you would have a one-size fits-all ECU.

And the point is; Just because you CAN do something doesn't mean it's necessarily a good idea.

tony_2018

Well lets ask a different question, what do you mean by running like crap?

Arthas

Thanks for the 3 month thread bump

tony_2018

Yeah my bad...but it was only 3 months.