shm91

I have possibilities of a cracked/warped block and/or a cracked head. I overheated once past the maximum temp gauge. I turned the engine off after several minutes.
Head gasket job has been done with proper procedure, and all the necessary gaskets replaced. Head was milled. Valve clearance adjusted.

I disassembled the head to measure the block at a machine shop with a straight edge (I'll tow the car there). If there is insignificant warp on the block, say 0.0025 inch, I guess the block doesn't have a crack - due to insignificant deformation of cast iron not enough to cause permanent warp (does it sound reasonable?). The 3rd cylinder wall that misfire happened surely doesn't have a crack visually.

I'm suspecting a cracked head most likely. But I can't sketch how a crack in the head could cause water in oil, and water being burned with gas inside the cylinder. It's because the gasket is new, and surely the gasket blocks between the block and the head.

What portion of the head should be cracked to cause this, if the problem is the head itself? Somebody told me a cracked head could cause that, but I just don't understand it mechanically.


Could somebody explain this to me?


p.s. I have 185-185-171-184 compression. I'm thinking of valve problem on it. This might be connected to a cracked head symptoms.

D16Y7 '00. 140k

tony_2018

You should consult the helms manual to get the minimum specs to deck the head. If this is a stock rebuild than that would be the best thing to do. Could you pinpoint where coolant was mixed in with oil?

Another thing is when you continue to drive the car while its overheating you probably had warp the head and block. Not only that you had water as your cooling purpose instead of the proper coolant fluid, so that probably added to the overheating issue. Try not to cheap out on that kind of stuff or else it'll cost you.

belairbrian

The simplest answer is a crack is not allowing the head gasket to be properly compressed.

You may still get proper torque readings when installing but the crack is preventing the clamping pressure to be distributed properly or is allowing expansion that should not be occurring.

If your taking the head in see what they charge to check it for cracks. On aluminum they can do a penetrating liquid inspection to find cracks.

shm91

I checked water oil mix through dipstick.

So, do you mean crack by assuming one in the head And/Or block?

tony_2018

I think he's saying that the either the head isn't torque down properly or that the head does not have a flat true surface. Did you follow the torque pattern in the helms manual and torque the studs down in three stages?

shm91

Yes, I used original Honda service manual. All the procedures were followed.


The coolant doesn't have any noticeable oil floating. It looks clean.



The upper hole - dark hole - was filled with oil.
The lower hole - green hole - was filled with coolant. Are these normal?
This is #4 cylinder (left side).

tony_2018

Check for warpage on the block on that area

Edit: Helms manual will tell how to check for warpage and whats the limit. Follow through