JRSC_D16

Hello everybody,
I have a civic eg D16Z9 engine stock.

2 weeks ago I put a new headgusket on it and tightened the head with some new ARP bolts.

My plan was tightening it to 84 NM, HOWOVER I set the torque wrench to 84 FT LBS accidentally

The engine runs good though.

What should I do now? Can the tension of the bolts kill the threads sometime? I need to release the bolts?

Any help will be appreciated.

mikej94civex

i'll bet they r deff not goin to be able to be reused and i'm not too certain but u may also have damaged the head and head
gasket, there is a sequence ur supposed to follow to avoid this problem, and to avoid head waprage which u most likely have now..umm
good luck to u and i would recommend having new studs and a new head gasket handy before taking the overtorqued ones
out, and then tighten them to spec...i belive it's 22ft/lb then 36ft/lbs i'm not sure 100% tho, search on here for a thread to be safe.
good luck on fixin that!

JRSC_D16

First of all I meant studs, not bolts. My bad.

Isn't it possible just to leave it like that? Can it damage the threads one day?

jdmh22eg2

^^ wrong info on specs


ok i would look up the torque pattern and take them loose and retorque 1 at a time

specs are as followed: the studs should be threaded in block HAND tight then it calls for straight to 60ft lbs but i do 30 then 60 in the correct sequence

Sr420Det

I think itl be ok. Jeff evens tightens all his arp to I think 75 pounds. I just did mine on my z6 to 75. R u having some kind of trouble now or has it just been bugging you?

nothing_shocking

I'm pretty sure ARP says lube everything and then do 30 ft/lbs first, then 60 ft/lbs. Another good thing to do is when you hand tighten the studs into the block, redo it a couple times to get the air out. Also, they just need to be seated well, not torqued into the block.

mikej94civex

my bad for wrong specs.....

*Cylinder Head Bolts for D16Z6
Step 1....22ft lbs
Step 2....53ft lbs

*All D ARP Studs
Step 1......15ft lbs
Step 2......30ft lbs
Step 3......62ft lbs

mikej94civex

http://www.d-series.org/forums/engin...que-specs.html

i searched

jdmh22eg2

well my info was off calling ARP them self when i got my built motor and put arp studs in it idk 2lbs wont make a diff tho

mikej94civex

true, but 84ft/lb compared to the 60-62 as the op stated he did, is problably not good...especially considering
he did not say whether he followed the correct sequence and what he started at 30ft/lb...20ft/lb ect for all we
kno he went atraight to 84...yikes!!!

JRSC_D16

I followed those steps, but translated it to NM and set on the torque wrench like it was ft lbs.

Step 1......20.3 ft lbs
Step 2......40.6 ft lbs
Step 3......84 ft lbs

:S

mikej94civex

well then u 'should' be fine, it's possibly u warped the head...as long as no issues come up i wouldn't worry bout it. If ANY cel codes or runnin issues arrise get back here asap tho lol before anything bad happens..gl man

rnomad

first of all when you get the arps it says to tork them to 60 lbs then after so many miles to retork them an n you can not back them off or you will need a new head gasket my buddy had a talon head torked to 125 lbs with some arps we had to lift the front of the car with a lift and three guys jump on the front bumper to get it off and we used the arps again an again after that we have even used headgaskets over before but you have to tork to a higher lbs every time arps are boss

Sr420Det

Screw d series.bitch...those guys r a bunch of turds.

JRSC_D16

Now it's 250km after the first torque. After every drive coolant in the reservoir tank going from MAX to between MAX and the top of the tank half the way.
That start happening after I reved the enigne to some high RPMs yesterday.

What can it be?

I'm planing on retorquing it today.

Any ideas?

vwtohonda

Do you have oil in your coolant? Or vice-versa? Coolant in your oil? Might have a leaky headgasket...

mikej94civex

soo i'm a bitch cuz i searched google for a quick reference guide and used d-series.org's link? i'm sry this isn't ur thread
so y does it matter where i got the info? it's correct anyways

mikej94civex

besides i was simply making a point that 'searching" woulda gave the op the answer he was lookin for, and he coulda
been assured whether he messed things up or not by possibly usin a site devoted to the d series engines...it's a matter of
helping him out not gettin ur approval on our sources cheif

mikej94civex

also i didn't say anything good about d-series was just offering it as a source of info, seein i got my info from there
on the head studs trq pounds.

ChokolAwt

iTrader: (1)

mike you seem to like to post alot...






to the OP, you never answered his question. any oil in your coolant or coolant in your oil? if not, i honestly wouldnt worry about it...

mikej94civex

me? well ya i do..i'm here to learn and help ppl with things i can, it's a tech forum so what's wrong with that? i
mean i've seen some other members with 5k plus posts..i'm just here to help out when i can

Sr420Det

Geez I didnt say u were a bitch, I said d-series.bitch (u know, instead of d-series.org). Sorry man didnt say the info was wrong either. Tried to visit the site and it said banned forever "buh bye troll" hahahaha so i dont know what the link was.

Sr420Det

Yeah the fluid level in the researve going up and down may be caused by a crappy radiator cap and the car wasnt warm yet. Possibly the thermostate maybe, all cheap stuff to fix anyways. Do check for oil and water mixing.

So what did the link to d-series.bitch say?

JRSC_D16

There's no oil in coolant nor coolant in oil.
Thermostate has beel replaced.

When I opened the thread everything was alright, just worried about the overtorqued head studs.

Yesterday coolant started getting into resorviour as I said before. Two days ago that wasn't happen.

I'll check the radiator cap, hope this is the problem.

JRSC_D16

*two days before
(: