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D15B7 troubleshooting exercise and welcome post.

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Old 09-02-2008, 07:47 PM
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Default D15B7 troubleshooting exercise and welcome post.



Hello HT, this is my first post. I have been a member for ~1.5 yrs. but never needed direct advice/discussion until now.

I have a 93 Lx that has low compression in cylinder 1 (this is what the shop told me). Not sure if that's the cylinder closest to the timing side (the way Honda number's them).
Anyway, I am planning on rebuilding the head using a head rebuild kit sometime before Christmas.

The major question I want to ask is regarding tools, and also general know how on this procedure. (Any snags I may run into).

What tools can I pick up for a head rebuild on a budget and where?


Car History:
1. As far as I know the motor's short block was replaced 40K miles ago.
2. It was not driven hard.
3. 288K miles total. 248K at the time the lower block was replaced.
4. It has a small amount of gray smoke when revving above ~4K rpm.

Bonus Question: Does a 93 Lx manual transmission fit onto a 90 D15B2? (Difficulty? Parts needed?)

Thanks in Advance!
Old 09-07-2008, 08:35 PM
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Default Re: D15B7 troubleshooting exercise and welcome post. (rgpsx1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rgpsx1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The major question I want to ask is regarding tools, and also general know how on this procedure. (Any snags I may run into).</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, for pulling and replacing the head you will need 10mm - 17mm sockets, extensions and a torque wrench. First thing I would suggest is why is the car loosing compression on that cylinder. bad headgasket? burnt valve? broken/stuck ring?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rgpsx1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bonus Question: Does a 93 Lx manual transmission fit onto a 90 D15B2? (Difficulty? Parts needed?)</TD></TR></TABLE>

It bolts right up, but you don't say what car this is going in, '93 tranny use a hydraulic clutch as opposed to the '90s cable clutch, they also use different mounts and you will need to change the vehicle speed sensor (VSS).
Old 09-08-2008, 05:31 PM
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Default Re: D15B7 troubleshooting exercise and welcome post. (94EG8)

Thanks for the feedback.
Things I have:
-socket set
-torque wrench
-shop manual

Since the short block was replaced such a short time ago I'm almost positive that the rings are good.
Also, the three cylinders are normal psi but the first is only 30 psi. Not sure if that helps identify the possible problem.
From reading another post earlier today I would say it's the head gasket especially since this is a D15B7. Would a standard head rebuild kit work well for this?

As for the bonus question, I would swap the D15B2 from my old 90 Lx into the 93 Lx. The only problem might be that my 90' is an automatic and my 93' is a manual, but will that make any difference?
-I guess if I were to do this swap I would need a garage, engine hoist, and engine stand (three things I don't have).
Old 09-08-2008, 08:11 PM
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Default Re: D15B7 troubleshooting exercise and welcome post. (rgpsx1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rgpsx1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From reading another post earlier today I would say it's the head gasket especially since this is a D15B7. Would a standard head rebuild kit work well for this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am extremely hesitant to recommend replacing a head gasket in an aluminum block engine, especially a D15B7. They have a real tendency to keep blowing head gaskets after they blow once Make sure its the head gasket first. Are you burning any coolant?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rgpsx1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As for the bonus question, I would swap the D15B2 from my old 90 Lx into the 93 Lx. The only problem might be that my 90' is an automatic and my 93' is a manual, but will that make any difference?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, but you will need to swap the intake and exhaust manifolds from your D15B7

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rgpsx1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">-I guess if I were to do this swap I would need a garage, engine hoist, and engine stand (three things I don't have).</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're not from the country are you? Plenty of guys do engine swaps without any of those things. I've never used an engine stand, or a proper engine hoist. I've actually pulled engines with a farm tractor several times. A garage however is very nice and pretty much refuse to work outside now, but lots of other guys do it.
Old 09-08-2008, 08:39 PM
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check the faq for how to drop an engine with out using a lift or anything. as for the intake you will need to switch cause some things are different on the manifolds. you will see when you compare them. and as for the head gasket, try an aftermarket one like hondata. they are thicker than stock and are a good upgrade.
Old 09-09-2008, 06:17 AM
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Default Re: D15B7 troubleshooting exercise and welcome post. (94EG8)

Yeah i understand your concern especially since my D15B7 has 288k miles already. I think I am going to go with the swap of the D15B2 into my 93 using the 93's manifolds.
I will replace all gaskets as well while doing the swap.

Also, I'm American born and raised. I guess I just seem n00bish?

Anyway, thanks for helping me make up my mind with the advice, I will add some pic's of my first swap before Christmas sometime so stay tuned.


Old 09-09-2008, 09:23 AM
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Default Re: D15B7 troubleshooting exercise and welcome post. (rgpsx1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rgpsx1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah i understand your concern especially since my D15B7 has 288k miles already.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its really not the mileage that seems to kill those engines, it just seems that if you overheat them and blow the headgasket they're pretty much done for, at any mileage.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rgpsx1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I will replace all gaskets as well while doing the swap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats a good idea, i'd also recomend water pump, timing belt and clutch while you're at it, unless these things happen to be almost new.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rgpsx1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, I'm American born and raised. I guess I just seem n00bish?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not that n00bish, i've seen far worse, but if you work at it you can pick up on this stuff pretty quick. I'm actually Canadian, from rural eastern canada, for whatever reason it seems that those of us from rural areas end up learning how to fix everything because either we can't afford to pay someone else to do it or its too far to take something to get it fixed.

Oh, one more thing, you will need 2 12 point sockets for this swap, 17mm and 10mm for the removing the automatic flex plate and bolting up the clutch and for the clutch pressure plate.
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