Asaf

Hello
I have Honda civic 1994 DX automatic.
I have D15B7 old automatic throttle-body and new D15B7 manual throttle-body and i want to replace them.
the part when the kick down cable connected is the only different and I need just to replace them
Is this something that can be done
the throttle body is designed for the 2 transmissions type?

Thank you

TomCat39

There is two issues with your plan.

The first one isn't that big of a deal. The FITV's are calibrated differently between the auto and manual D15B7 throttle bodies. Swapping them would be no big deal at all and would keep it in line with spec from factory.

The big problem area is swapping the cable pulleys.

The adjustment screw that the pulley strike plate hits is the one single screw HIGHLY recommended to never touch. It is calibrated at the factory to allow the butterfly valve to close as completely as possible without actually rounding out the bore of the throttle body. It doesn't actually allow the butterfly to completely close as that would actually wear the throttle body.

Looking at a spare throttle body in my closet, the pulley and strike plate are one unit. The precise position of the plate will be different between the two pulleys. Could only be as much as a 0.001" difference but that difference will either allow the butterfly to wear, or prevent it from closing to factory spec.

Either way, you will be compromising the one area everyone says to avoid at all costs.

Not saying you can't do it as it does come apart. However, you may induce more problems down the road that will cause you to have to do the work again at some point.

Asaf

TomCat39

First, why were you looking to replace the Throttle Body?

Maybe would should start there.

I believe the MAP sensors are the same between the two.

Asaf

I understand and I also wanted to know please if I disconnect the intake manifold and the 2 cables that connected to it (one from the gas pedal and the other one from the transmission) do I need to adjust them when reinstall or just put them back?

Thank you

TomCat39

Why do you need to change your throttle body?

Asaf

TomCat39

The two spots that cause abnormal idle is the FITV, and the IACV.

If your idle isn't surging then it's going to be in those two areas and/or you need to set base idle.

When you say in "temperature mode" do you mean engine cold and warming up? Or do you mean after engine is fully warm?

The FITV typically only affects idle when the engine is cold and warming up. The IACV controls idle once the engine is fully warm. Base idle is an upkeep item that should be set every so often. Possibly every couple of years once the car is older.

Asaf

"temperature mode" mean engine engine is fully warm
NO error code at all so IACV is ok
in my opinion the FITV not clean more then 10 years at least but do you think by cleaning this can resolve the problem? or need to adjust?

Asaf

TomCat39

D15B7 OBD1 (94 USDM DX) doesn't have a scan tool like OBD2 does. You should not have a working scanner for that car. I do not know where you are hooking your scan tool that is not working.

• Running Rich means running lean air and rich fuel.
• Running Lean means running rich air and lean fuel.

The term Rich and Lean pertain to the fuel percentage of the Air Fuel Ratio (AFR).

Asaf

Hello

Thanks for your response
I have a plug in the right side down below of the dash board passenger
The scan tool check the car but don't send any errors.

About the lean and rich answer I know fully understand.
Thanks for the info.

I wish I knew what to check about the running rich situation
The only thing I can say is that the idle screw is closed completely and from what I hear the screw need to be two complete turns from fully closed
Do you know or someone know something and can confirmed it?.

mk378

First consider the throttle lever stop screw, which as TomCat pointed out, is strictly for factory adjustment, there is no reason EVER to touch it in the field unless someone already screwed it up. So if you have turned it, it needs to be set back so the throttle plate just closes all the way but, doesn't slam into the sides of the body. This screw is NOT used to set the idle speed.

Make sure the throttle plate always returns to fully closed when the gas pedal is not being pressed. Adjust or replace the throttle cable if needed.

Then you would check the TPS with a voltmeter and correct that if needed.

The timing needs to be set with a timing light.

Finally you set up the idle by warming up the engine, put transmission in neutral and turn off all electrical devices. Then unplug the IACV. Adjust the air screw for 420 rpm, which is like barely running. When you plug the IACV back in, it should pick up to a normal idle. If it does not, consider air in the cooling system or faulty ECT.

If you can't get the engine to slow down turning the air screw all the way in with the IACV unplugged, find out how the excessive air is getting into the intake. It can't run fast (or at all) without air.

There is no particular position for the air screw to end up at, that's why it is adjustable. But review the paragraph above.

The OBD1 system has two test plugs near the ECU. The two wire one is used for setting the timing and making it blink codes. The three wire one was for proprietary Honda test equipment that only dealers had. I know of no device on the consumer market that interfaces with the three wire plug.

Asaf

Thank you very much for the professional information.
I will test it and see if it will make any different.
Appreciate all your help.

Thank you