D15b7 running extremely rich
#1
D15b7 running extremely rich
Won't even pass smog , new Cat, no CEL's. What tips and advice can you guys give me while diagnosing this car and where to check first? The referee said the Carbon monoxide readings went to 9 when the machine only goes up to 10!
#3
Re: D15b7 running extremely rich
Stock DX Hatch
CEL Works lights up in bulb test , but never lights up while driving.
Heres the emission results:
Something is defiantly wrong with this car and I need to find out what.
Every visual and functional tests passed.
CEL Works lights up in bulb test , but never lights up while driving.
Heres the emission results:
Something is defiantly wrong with this car and I need to find out what.
Every visual and functional tests passed.
#4
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Re: D15b7 running extremely rich
so HC and CO2 are both too high.
Check your timing, as well as your fuel pressure. When was the last time you replaced your plugs, wires, cap, and rotor?
Check your timing, as well as your fuel pressure. When was the last time you replaced your plugs, wires, cap, and rotor?
#7
Re: D15b7 running extremely rich
Referee checked my timing with the timing gun on the 6th because I went to the referee station ( CA BS) and the machine took a dump so he just gave me some advice checked the timing said it was straight. Then again on the day of the real test on the 8th , still great, but still failed... I'll pull the plugs and get a pic asap. Any ideas on what it could be? could the spark plugs really make it run that rich ?
EDIT: Also I see moisture building up on the bottom block but no leak.
EDIT: Also I see moisture building up on the bottom block but no leak.
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#8
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Re: D15b7 running extremely rich
worn plugs, worn wires, a worn cap, or a worn rotor could reduce spark, making the fuel not fully burn. Old or malfunctioning injectors could be failing to atomize the fuel fully, making it not fully burn.
There are probably plenty of people who will **** on me for saying this, but get a can of seafoam and add HALF of it to your tank at the same time you FILL your tank. It is effective at cleaning injectors, and is a lot cheaper and less time consuming than pulling them and sending them off to be professionally cleaned.
Also, did you replace the dizzy yourself, or did you have someone do it for you? A good number of replacement dizzies don't come with a cap and rotor - shops will generally just put the old one back on if they don't charge you for a new one. Honestly, plugs, cap, and rotor are cheap, even OEM. I would still replace them to make sure that possibility is eliminated. Wires can get a little more pricey, but it wouldn't hurt to replace them, also to be on the safe side.
Assuming you trust the guy who checked your timing, your bucket list should be cap, rotor, seafoam, plugs, wires. In that order.
There are probably plenty of people who will **** on me for saying this, but get a can of seafoam and add HALF of it to your tank at the same time you FILL your tank. It is effective at cleaning injectors, and is a lot cheaper and less time consuming than pulling them and sending them off to be professionally cleaned.
Also, did you replace the dizzy yourself, or did you have someone do it for you? A good number of replacement dizzies don't come with a cap and rotor - shops will generally just put the old one back on if they don't charge you for a new one. Honestly, plugs, cap, and rotor are cheap, even OEM. I would still replace them to make sure that possibility is eliminated. Wires can get a little more pricey, but it wouldn't hurt to replace them, also to be on the safe side.
Assuming you trust the guy who checked your timing, your bucket list should be cap, rotor, seafoam, plugs, wires. In that order.
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apaige58
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