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I have a 1995 civic lx.
The current engine (D15B7) has 329,000 miles on it and uses about half a quart of oil per week.
A friend found a guy who's pulling his D16Z6 for a B series swap.
He's giving me the complete engine along with the transmission, engine wire harness, Cv axles, shift linkages, and a p28 ecu.
I want to do the full timing set and clutch along with the valve cover and oil pan gasket before I install it.
From what I've found on here, it should be an almost just drop in and drive. Right?
Wire both wires from vtec unit behind dizzy together before sending through firewall to vtec spool pin on ecu. Don't worry about oil switch, these engines are pretty much bulletproof unboosted.
Wire both wires from vtec unit behind dizzy together before sending through firewall to vtec spool pin on ecu. Don't worry about oil switch, these engines are pretty much bulletproof unboosted.
Are you talking about the low pressure switch above the oil filter or something else?
You can start by just mechanically swapping the engine. It will run and drive as non-VTEC, then you can look at the wiring and ECU.
The pressure switch is on the VTEC solenoid. It confirms to the ECU that the VTEC solenoid opened and that there is sufficient oil pressure for proper VTEC operation. WIth a stock P28 ECU, it needs to be hooked up or the ECU will throw a VTEC code and enter limp mode. If the ECU is chipped, you can tune it to not use the pressure switch.
Oh, ok. That you for the clarification.
(just to be sure)
I'll install the new engine. Plug the new engine harness to everything and then into the stock lx body harness.
Hook the new p28 computer to the other end.
I still would need to run vtec wires as the lx didn't have them stock. Correct?
sorry if I seem repetitive, I'm going to try to do all I can before I actually have my daily driver down. My 76 camaro is a thirsty one and work is 40 miles one way. Lol
Oh, ok. That you for the clarification.
(just to be sure)
I'll install the new engine. Plug the new engine harness to everything and then into the stock lx body harness.
Hook the new p28 computer to the other end.
I still would need to run vtec wires as the lx didn't have them stock. Correct?
sorry if I seem repetitive, I'm going to try to do all I can before I actually have my daily driver down. My 76 camaro is a thirsty one and work is 40 miles one way. Lol
Yes exactly. You can use the axles in your car already, you don't have to use the ones that were already with the D16Z6.
All you need to do the swap in your car is the engine, the ecu and the 2 wires from the ECU to the shock tower plug.
If your car is already a manual transmission you don't have to change the tranny but the Z6 tranny is shorter gearing for performance.
If you are an automatic, you will have to swap the tranny to the manual tranny if you are to use the P28 ECU.
If you want to stick with using your P06 Automatic leave the automatic in as the P28 ECU will not talk to the automatic tranny, only the P06 Auto ECU will.
Just throw rings and rod bearings in the b7 block and pickup an old z6 head. This will work 9 out of ten times, despite high mileage. D bores just don't wear much and the tiny head components don't really have enough reciprocating mass to wear much either. Check for straightness and maybe replace valve stem seals. Minimes are easy to build and you get a free 10.5/1 CR, around 11 w y8 head.
01-20-2019, 04:21 PM
D15b7 to D16Z6 complete swap
