D15B7 Crank Bolt
#1
D15B7 Crank Bolt
Hey Fellow Honda fans,
I'm in the process of doing a headgasket and timing belt on a 1995 Civic with the D15B7 engine in it...
Stuck at the point where I remove the crank pulley to access the timing belt cover and timing belt tensioners etc.
So far I've tried:
- My Campbel Housfeld Air Impact (on 25 gal tank at 120 PSI)
- Tried a fairly long bar on a 1/2" Ratchet (and jumping on it with all my 300LBS)
- Tried putting a jack under my ratchet (around and behind the wheel assembly) and raising that.
All this while having a screwdriver shoved in the Crank Pulley hole to have it get caught on the frame... I also tried getting a bit of WD40 on there and hammering a few times on the bolt itself...
I've been told I might be able to hit the key and let the starter do the work.
Just not sure what that would look like.
I'm at wits end though, what else can I do to try to loosen this bolt?
Anyone!?!?!
I'm in the process of doing a headgasket and timing belt on a 1995 Civic with the D15B7 engine in it...
Stuck at the point where I remove the crank pulley to access the timing belt cover and timing belt tensioners etc.
So far I've tried:
- My Campbel Housfeld Air Impact (on 25 gal tank at 120 PSI)
- Tried a fairly long bar on a 1/2" Ratchet (and jumping on it with all my 300LBS)
- Tried putting a jack under my ratchet (around and behind the wheel assembly) and raising that.
All this while having a screwdriver shoved in the Crank Pulley hole to have it get caught on the frame... I also tried getting a bit of WD40 on there and hammering a few times on the bolt itself...
I've been told I might be able to hit the key and let the starter do the work.
Just not sure what that would look like.
I'm at wits end though, what else can I do to try to loosen this bolt?
Anyone!?!?!
#2
Honda-Tech Member
re: D15B7 Crank Bolt
Crank that impact air up to max psi. If that doesn't work, try supercooling the crank pulley bolt. CRC makes freeze off, check it out. If that doesn't work, go to church.
#3
re: D15B7 Crank Bolt
@SpeedRacerEX-R
Thanks for that! I found a supplier of a similar thing made by Loctite the same thing, freezes the bolt... That's *JUST* the lead I needed!
RE: PSI I'll give that a shot, but I *think* might be near the top end of the PSI my compressor can produce. . .
RE: Church, ironically the wife saw me working at this for 4 hours and suggested I pray, and I've given that a shot too haha, must be cursed!
Thanks for that! I found a supplier of a similar thing made by Loctite the same thing, freezes the bolt... That's *JUST* the lead I needed!
RE: PSI I'll give that a shot, but I *think* might be near the top end of the PSI my compressor can produce. . .
RE: Church, ironically the wife saw me working at this for 4 hours and suggested I pray, and I've given that a shot too haha, must be cursed!
#4
Re: D15B7 Crank Bolt
If you get a torque multiplier it makes loosening the pulley bolt like cutting through butter with a hot knife.
You can see it here:
https://honda-tech.com/acura-tl-rl-z.../#post50583913
This is the one I bought on sale for 79.99. The best money I spent on hand tools to date:
Torque Multiplier | Princess Auto
The 3/4" extension was 50 bucks at Lordco and the 3/4" drive 17mm socket I bought for 25 bucks or so on Amazon.ca
https://www.amazon.ca/Stanley-J07517...ve+17mm+socket
Needless to say, pulley bolts don't stand a chance and I don't even have to reef on the breaker bar.
Makes short work on axel nuts too.
You can see it here:
https://honda-tech.com/acura-tl-rl-z.../#post50583913
This is the one I bought on sale for 79.99. The best money I spent on hand tools to date:
Torque Multiplier | Princess Auto
The 3/4" extension was 50 bucks at Lordco and the 3/4" drive 17mm socket I bought for 25 bucks or so on Amazon.ca
https://www.amazon.ca/Stanley-J07517...ve+17mm+socket
Needless to say, pulley bolts don't stand a chance and I don't even have to reef on the breaker bar.
Makes short work on axel nuts too.
#5
Re: D15B7 Crank Bolt
Well....if you're not an old man, you can do what I did to loosen it.
I heated the bolt up with a blow torch for about 4-5 minutes(make sure to ONLY heat the Bolt), then I sprayed WD40 on the bolt, after that took my breaker bar and extension, get that breaker bar handle on the RIGHT SIDE of the bolt(handle tip facing the rear of the car), get the breaker bar handle at a level slightly below the bolt, hold the place where the extension meets the breaker bar with 1 hand, and hold the handle with your other hand.....then USE YOUR KNEES to pull up on the handle.(Left Lucy, Right Tighty!)
I know....it's the hard way but when you get it done..you won't even believe you got it done!
I heated the bolt up with a blow torch for about 4-5 minutes(make sure to ONLY heat the Bolt), then I sprayed WD40 on the bolt, after that took my breaker bar and extension, get that breaker bar handle on the RIGHT SIDE of the bolt(handle tip facing the rear of the car), get the breaker bar handle at a level slightly below the bolt, hold the place where the extension meets the breaker bar with 1 hand, and hold the handle with your other hand.....then USE YOUR KNEES to pull up on the handle.(Left Lucy, Right Tighty!)
I know....it's the hard way but when you get it done..you won't even believe you got it done!
#6
Re: D15B7 Crank Bolt
Hitting the starter will not work on these cars since the engine turns counterclockwise (unlike most cars), and as Mecca noted, the bolt is right hand thread (like most bolts) holding the bolt while turning on the starter will just make the bolt tighter.
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#8
Re: D15B7 Crank Bolt
Yeah, the idea is to heat it so the heat transfers to the crank snout so the bolt hole expands.
It's the normal mechanics method of getting out tough bolts.
Just like this:
The difference is the inductor is very localized, the torch will eventually heat up the snout which is the end goal.
Before the inductors, torches were always the method for stubborn bolts.
It's the normal mechanics method of getting out tough bolts.
Just like this:
The difference is the inductor is very localized, the torch will eventually heat up the snout which is the end goal.
Before the inductors, torches were always the method for stubborn bolts.
#9
Re: D15B7 Crank Bolt
Man! I'm exceptionally grateful for all the kick butt suggestions.
I definitely want to get a torque multiplier sometime too.
Here's what I did...
A friend who's an airplane mechanic came by today. He brought his snapon impact but no luck. With his breaker bar and between his extensions and mine we got the breaker two extensions out away from the car. Then I held the end straight while he pulled up on it.
Broke one screw driver holding the pulley.
Damn cheap fuller brand!
Threw a tradesman brand screw driver and went at it again, this time adding the pipe from my floor jack to the end of the breaker bar, total feet nearly 5 feet out from the 90 degree now.:. Pulled up and... Bam!
I definitely want to get a torque multiplier sometime too.
Here's what I did...
A friend who's an airplane mechanic came by today. He brought his snapon impact but no luck. With his breaker bar and between his extensions and mine we got the breaker two extensions out away from the car. Then I held the end straight while he pulled up on it.
Broke one screw driver holding the pulley.
Damn cheap fuller brand!
Threw a tradesman brand screw driver and went at it again, this time adding the pipe from my floor jack to the end of the breaker bar, total feet nearly 5 feet out from the 90 degree now.:. Pulled up and... Bam!
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