D15B Vtec - Oil eater and blue smoke
#1
D15B Vtec - Oil eater and blue smoke
I swapped my D14A3 with a D15B Vtec. The problem is that D15 is taking out blue smoke on high rpms and eats around 300-400g of oil / 350 km. About 1liter / 100 km.
I did a compression test and the results are :
1 piston : 140
2 piston : 139
3 piston : 140
4 piston : 138
As it is my first Honda and i`m a newbie , is this a good compression ?
Should i change the piston rings ?
I thought that chaning valve seals will fix this issue but someone told me i should change also the piston rings.
The oil i used is 10W-40 Motul 4100 Turbolight and the guy who sold me the engine told me to put Liqui Molly Ceratec to fix the smoke issue as the engine is old and it`s normally to spoof out blue smoke.
Waiting for your suggestion. Thank you
I did a compression test and the results are :
1 piston : 140
2 piston : 139
3 piston : 140
4 piston : 138
As it is my first Honda and i`m a newbie , is this a good compression ?
Should i change the piston rings ?
I thought that chaning valve seals will fix this issue but someone told me i should change also the piston rings.
The oil i used is 10W-40 Motul 4100 Turbolight and the guy who sold me the engine told me to put Liqui Molly Ceratec to fix the smoke issue as the engine is old and it`s normally to spoof out blue smoke.
Waiting for your suggestion. Thank you
#3
Re: Oil eater
I`m taking it to a local service to change the timing belt, watter pump and valve seals and i was wondering if this is a bad compression ... i had the opportunity to change the piston rings now
Thank you !
Thank you !
#4
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Re: Oil eater
The compression is just a hair above minimum. If you have the chance to, it wouldn't hurt to change the rings and get the entire motor and rotating assembly serviced while you're at it. It just isn't totally required quite yet.
#5
Re: D15B Vtec - Oil eater and blue smoke
I decided to rebuild the engine.
I already bought some parts :
Head gasket (D16Z6)
Head screws (D16Z6) - the most expensive from all this parts
Valve Stem Seals (D15Z1)
Water Pump (D15Z1)
Timing Belt kit (D15Z1)
Other seals and stuff.
My final issue as i`ll take my car tomorrow at the garage is that i can`t find piston rings for D15B vtec, i`m not sure if they will fit.
I found some information on some forums that the one from D15Z1 will fit but i want to be sure.
I found on ebay NPR piston rings full set and the title of the sale is :
Piston rings full engine set Honda D15Z D15Z1 D16Y D16Y5 D16Y7 D16Y8 Civic CRX
Are this piston rings good for my engine ?
Waiting for your answers. Thank you very much !
I already bought some parts :
Head gasket (D16Z6)
Head screws (D16Z6) - the most expensive from all this parts
Valve Stem Seals (D15Z1)
Water Pump (D15Z1)
Timing Belt kit (D15Z1)
Other seals and stuff.
My final issue as i`ll take my car tomorrow at the garage is that i can`t find piston rings for D15B vtec, i`m not sure if they will fit.
I found some information on some forums that the one from D15Z1 will fit but i want to be sure.
I found on ebay NPR piston rings full set and the title of the sale is :
Piston rings full engine set Honda D15Z D15Z1 D16Y D16Y5 D16Y7 D16Y8 Civic CRX
Are this piston rings good for my engine ?
Waiting for your answers. Thank you very much !
#6
Re: D15B Vtec - Oil eater and blue smoke
Are you having the block bored? I know some may flame me, but putting standard rings on a tired block will work, but not the best option. I would have the cylinders bored and oversized pistons, rings installed.
#7
Re: D15B Vtec - Oil eater and blue smoke
I`m still running the car and tomorrow i`m going to take to the garage as i said. I think it won`t be the standard size as my car is smokey. The mechanic will decide what size i need.
But first i need to know what to order. This is why i asked if the rings from the above post will fit my pistons. I mean they are the correct piston rings i should buy ? (D15Z1) ?
Thanks !
But first i need to know what to order. This is why i asked if the rings from the above post will fit my pistons. I mean they are the correct piston rings i should buy ? (D15Z1) ?
Thanks !
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#8
Re: D15B Vtec - Oil eater and blue smoke
NPR or RIK (Riken i think) are the piston rings should i use ? - the one from Ebay
Are they good ? Don`t want to take the engine down in a few months again ...
Are they good ? Don`t want to take the engine down in a few months again ...
Last edited by emarian; 02-25-2013 at 11:45 PM. Reason: forgot some info ...
#9
Honda-Tech Member
Re: D15B Vtec - Oil eater and blue smoke
i'm using rock rings/bearings in my a6/z6 swap, 3 years later still hits vtec/redline every day i drove it no smoke other than a slight valve stem seal leak from installation error
#13
Honda-Tech Member
Re: D15B Vtec - Oil eater and blue smoke
LOL, in my country the are use about several times, not only at gasoline engine but on diesel engine where torque is over 10kg@m it's about 72lb@ft
My buddy have work shop and rebuild some engine more then 3 time with same studs. I know it's wrong but nobody have complain yet.
#14
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Re: D15B Vtec - Oil eater and blue smoke
People get away with it, but there have also been people who have posted on this very board, who have needed to pull their engine apart a second time because they didn't replaced the worn out head studs.
#15
Honda-Tech Member
Re: D15B Vtec - Oil eater and blue smoke
I doubt that people will disassemble engine because of head studs , check them if the are stretched, rusted, clean and back again, bigger problem is put new cylinder head without head leveling and new cylinder ring without honing and again if cylinder wall become oval all this is waste of time and money.
#16
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Re: D15B Vtec - Oil eater and blue smoke
Run 5W30 in the future and change it on time to prevent oil burning in the future. 10W40 is too thick.
Also, yes D15Z1 ('92 - '95 Civic VX in the US/Canada) piston rings are the ones you want
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/urgent-jdm-d15b-piston-ring-replacement-2611974/
#17
Re: D15B Vtec - Oil eater and blue smoke
Sorry for not replying and being so late but i managed to take out my car from the garage about 1 week ago.
More then 30 days passed since the car was in the garage because of some stupid people who sent me wrong parts for my engine.
1st - i bought some NPR piston rings from Ebay (UK) and i`ve said to that guy that i have D15B Vtec JDM (P08) pistons but he sent me PM06 (D15B non vtec). I lost my money because of him 100$ because my package was lost when i returned it back and it didn`t had any insurance.
So i decided to buy the OEM rings for 300$.
For rod bearings, i bought Mogul Federal for 50$.
All the parts were standard size and they fitted perfect, i didn`t need to get the block bored.
The most damaged part of the engine was the head, which cost me the most.
After making a total the engine rebuild cost me 2x more then i paid for the engine. About 1100$.
My mechanic said that i should ride my car very slowly for 5000 km and i shouldn`t exceed 4000 rpms.
Also i used 5W-40 Motul Xcess and not 10W-40 as others said.
How much does it take to "break-in"or how it`s called the procedure in English ? ! ?
Thank you guys
More then 30 days passed since the car was in the garage because of some stupid people who sent me wrong parts for my engine.
1st - i bought some NPR piston rings from Ebay (UK) and i`ve said to that guy that i have D15B Vtec JDM (P08) pistons but he sent me PM06 (D15B non vtec). I lost my money because of him 100$ because my package was lost when i returned it back and it didn`t had any insurance.
So i decided to buy the OEM rings for 300$.
For rod bearings, i bought Mogul Federal for 50$.
All the parts were standard size and they fitted perfect, i didn`t need to get the block bored.
The most damaged part of the engine was the head, which cost me the most.
After making a total the engine rebuild cost me 2x more then i paid for the engine. About 1100$.
My mechanic said that i should ride my car very slowly for 5000 km and i shouldn`t exceed 4000 rpms.
Also i used 5W-40 Motul Xcess and not 10W-40 as others said.
How much does it take to "break-in"or how it`s called the procedure in English ? ! ?
Thank you guys
#19
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Re: D15B Vtec - Oil eater and blue smoke
Not really. There's a strong practice that you need to run the engine HARD right off the bat tin order to properly seat the rings.
#20
Re: D15B Vtec - Oil eater and blue smoke
I already drive 2000 km since the rebuilt and my mechanic said like this :
First 500 km i should accelerate slow and don`t exceed 2500-3000 rpm.
Then i should drive the car normally and don`t exceed 4000 rpm.
I already changed the oil once at 1000 km.
Yesterday i had to reach 6000 rpm so i exceeded the rpm limit )).
I asked the guys on my local forum and they said i fucked up the engine because i reached 6000 rpm after 2000 km ))
Is this true ?
First 500 km i should accelerate slow and don`t exceed 2500-3000 rpm.
Then i should drive the car normally and don`t exceed 4000 rpm.
I already changed the oil once at 1000 km.
Yesterday i had to reach 6000 rpm so i exceeded the rpm limit )).
I asked the guys on my local forum and they said i fucked up the engine because i reached 6000 rpm after 2000 km ))
Is this true ?
#21
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Re: D15B Vtec - Oil eater and blue smoke
Read this;
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !
Why ??
Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.
If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...
How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
Of course it can't.
How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??
From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into
the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.
The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.
There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!
If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !
Why ??
Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.
If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...
How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
Of course it can't.
How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??
From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into
the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.
The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.
There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!
If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.
#22
Re: D15B Vtec - Oil eater and blue smoke
I read this 2 weeks ago but i`m afraid to do that considering the money i spent.
I don`t want great performance from my car and also, i can`t break-in the engine like that since i already drive 2000 km slowly.
Is it necessary to run 5000 km ? Or 2000 km would be enough.
Thanks for your great answers
I don`t want great performance from my car and also, i can`t break-in the engine like that since i already drive 2000 km slowly.
Is it necessary to run 5000 km ? Or 2000 km would be enough.
Thanks for your great answers
#24
Re: D15B Vtec - Oil eater and blue smoke
Sorry for that. My last question on this thread.
I took my car for a ride, it`s awesome what can i say.
I never thought this engine could run like this
I used the brake engine and rev it up maximum for a couple of times in 3rd gear, 4 gear. Reached maximum speed in 4 gear (180 km/h) .....
As a resume, the engine it`s not so noisier any more, the oil it`s very clean and at upper level.
I changed my oil on 1500 km (about 700 km ago). After running the engine hard should i change again the oil ?
Last time i used Motul 5W-40 Xcess and now i want to use Eneos Sustina 5W-30.
Thank you !
( Sorry for being so terrified but i`m a newbie )
I took my car for a ride, it`s awesome what can i say.
I never thought this engine could run like this
I used the brake engine and rev it up maximum for a couple of times in 3rd gear, 4 gear. Reached maximum speed in 4 gear (180 km/h) .....
As a resume, the engine it`s not so noisier any more, the oil it`s very clean and at upper level.
I changed my oil on 1500 km (about 700 km ago). After running the engine hard should i change again the oil ?
Last time i used Motul 5W-40 Xcess and now i want to use Eneos Sustina 5W-30.
Thank you !
( Sorry for being so terrified but i`m a newbie )
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