Metal Head

As title says

1995 Civic EX stock P28 with swapped D15B vtec.

Vtec works fine in town.
However, I got on the highway, Wrapped 2nd gear out about 80MPH I get a CEL. key off then on, goes away, I then wrap the RPMS out once again, this time hitting 100 MPH then get CEL.

Each time I get CEL, VTEC no longer works.

The code is #22.

Yes, oil level is FINE! Yes the oil has just been freshly changed.


Anyone have a logical clue?


Modified by Metal Head at 7:06 PM 2/2/2007

Metal Head

im sorry I may be wrong about second gear, I dont even think it goes to 65mph in second. Mabey 3rd.

Anyway, you get the point, ONLY 80mph or 100 mph, I get CEL. Ill have to take her on the highway again to see exaclty what RPM's it does it at.

cambopheonix56

Change the oil? Also, try not going that fast.

biggee

ya when my old motor which burned alot of oil would throw a code 22 it was because I didnt have enough oil pressure for Vtec to engage and I would check my oil and I would be about 2.5 - 3 l low...see this was on my shitty motor which I cared not for, so i would check / change your oil ASAP

Metal Head

Yes i should have explained this. YES, my oil level is FINE! And yes I just changed the oil! It did it on every oil change, I when from castrol syntech 5w-30 to Vavoiline 10w-30 synthetic blend, I am now at Vavoiline 10w-30 Regular oil.


I even went as far as wiring VTEC wires direclty to the ECU with my own wires, I swapped out both VTEC sensors..............

Jonknee

So ur vtec is not kicking in, and ur getting code 22? Maybe the vtec pressure valve is bad somehow someway who knows, if ur horny for vtec i believe you can bypass the vtec pressure valve

Metal Head

please read post again, carefully.

YES VTEC works, However, If I hit 80MPH or 100 MPH I get #22 CODE and VTEC does NOT Work.


not really a big deal, I really shouldnt be going that fast, But I FIGURED, some people on these forums might know something other than telling me, "You shouldnt be going that fast"

I didnt ASK you opinion, I asked WHY is my car throwing CEL @ 80MPH and VTEC stops working.

Jonknee

Sorry i dont have hours to read through posts, im just quikly glancing and posting tips by reading keywords on threads. Might want to trade pressure valves with a buddy and re-test.

Metal Head

Already did that.

ifIexplode

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YRM_gD_tkQ

Jonknee

expletive, good luck with that.
You try swapping ecu's?

Metal Head

I have yet to try that. I will try that, thanx.

My buddie said when I get on it, I smoke a little bit as any honda does......

So if its not the ECU, oil pump

cambopheonix56

Once again, do not drive like a jackass and endanger the lives of other and you wouldn't have this problem.

There can't possible be a reason to drive that fast.

biggee

what if you are drag racing?

you should geta n oil pressure guage and hook it up take your car for a rip and see what your oil pressure is at said speed and condition and check it against what the pressure is supposed to be?

egmatt93

i dont know if this is true but i hear that u CANNOT go from synthetic oil to regular.... i would drain it asap if this is true and go back to synthetic

Syndacate

Did you look up what to do in the event of a code 22 in the helms manual?

I personally have never dealt with that code (or at least don't recall it) but helms usually has step by steps for every code.

If you don't have it holla and I'll try to look it up for ya.

egmatt93

syndacate is what i said about true... if it is couldnt that be a problem?

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egmatt93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">syndacate is what i said about true... if it is couldnt that be a problem?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd be lying if I said I knew for sure. I never used regular oil.

Synthetic FTW!!! .

Though I do recall hearing something along those lines...but I don't remember what. I mean ****, even in my '67 Camaro I used synthetic straight up .

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cambopheonix56 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Once again, do not drive like a jackass and endanger the lives of other and you wouldn't have this problem.

There can't possible be a reason to drive that fast.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You know what? I outta drop your *** off on the interstate by Rochester on a Sunday night around 9p. Yeah, where the traffic flow is 90-105 ina 65mph zone. Then start bitching at people about "the dangers of driving that fast," where if you don't drive that fast, you are putting more people in danger, where you have mini-vans and SUV's swerving around you.

Better yet, go out west to where some of the roads [Navada maybe?] have speed limits listed as "unrestricted" - that was 15 years ago or so, not sure if they still have unrestricted speed limits now (somebody correct me on this?), though you'd have fun there too.

You really shouldn't need to do 100+ in normal driving, though your car should definitely be able to go that fast as in the example I mentioned (Thruway (I-90) by Rochester) it's NECESSARY to do at least 90 to keep from holding up traffic.

You should see what happens when some dick in a piece of crap can't keep up, people start swerving around him 'n ****, it makes for an even worse environment .

egmatt93

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Synthetic FTW!!! .

</TD></TR></TABLE>
amen to that Royal Purple FTW~!

Syndacate

Here's how Helms says to do it:
- Engine is running.
- CEL has been reported on.
- With service check connector jumped, CODE 22 is indicated
(*lil picture of CEL 22*)

- Do the ECU Reset Procedures

- Turn the ignition switch ON

- Is Check Engine light on and does it indicate CODE 22?
IF NO: Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time (test drive may be necessary). Check for poor connections or loose wires at oil pressure switch and ECU.

IF YES: Turn the ignition OFF.

Disconnect the 2P connector from the oil pressure switch.

Check for continuity between BLK terminal and ground.

Does continuity Exist?
If NO: Repair open in BLK wire between 2P connector and body ground.

IF YES: Connect the ECU test harness

Check for continuity between BLU/BLK terminal and D6 terminal **(that's your oil pressure wire)

Does Continuity exist?
IF NO: Repair open BLU/BLK wire batween ECU and 2P connector.

IF YES: Check for continuity between D6 terminal and body ground.

Does Continuity exist?
IF YES: Repair short in BLU/BLK wire between ECU and 2P connector.

IF NO:
Remove the oil pressure switch, install the special tools, then reinstall the oil pressure switch.

Connect a tachometer.

Start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.

Check oil pressure at engine speeds of 1k RPM, 3K RPM, and 5K RPM.

Is the pressure below 50kPa (0.5kg/cm^2, 7 psi)?

IF NO: Inspect the Spool Valve

If YES: Check for continuity between the 2 terminals of the oil pressure switch.

Does Continuity Exist?

IF NO: Replace oil pressure switch

If YES: Disconnect the 2P connector from the spool solenoid valve.

Attach the battery positive terminal to the GRN/WHT terminal.

Start the engine and check oil pressure at engine speeds of 5k RPM.

Is the pressure above 400kPa (4kg/cm^2, 57psi)?

IF NO: Inspect spool valve.

If YES: Check for Continuity between the 2 terminals on the oil pressure switch under above condition.

Does continuity exist?
IF NO: Replace oil pressure switch.

IF YES: Substitute a known-good ECU and recheck. If symtom/indicator goes away replace the original ECU.


******************************

Aight dude, I typed that right outta the book so blah

Hope that helps ya man. Go through those procedures.

Metal Head

hey man, You have no idea how mucht hat means to me! I really do appriciate it. Its about time I got a good answer, unlike the guys saying, "you shouldnt be going that fast,SLOW DOWN" CRAP..........

I didnt ask for any opinions of my drving, I asked whats the problem with #22.

So it sounds like a loose wire fromt he oil pressure switch OR oil swithc failure OR faulty ECU.

I wanan say the ECU is RETARTED, for example, I can rev my car all the way to 8500 RPM's ( i know not safe, but I have done it) So obviously the stock rev limiter doesnt work like it SHOULD. (stock P28)

HondaPartsHero

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1812135

maybe oil pump or maybe you pickup is getting clogged

EJgsr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaPartsHero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1812135

maybe oil pump or maybe you pickup is getting clogged</TD></TR></TABLE>

now that you say that that sounds like a possible problem.

Metal Head

Hmmmm, I DID SEAFOAM the gas, and brake booster vac line, didnt do the oil,yet....

cambopheonix56

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egmatt93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont know if this is true but i hear that u CANNOT go from synthetic oil to regular.... i would drain it asap if this is true and go back to synthetic </TD></TR></TABLE>

Bah, i did it once and nothing happend.