xtreemHonda

So I was wondering if it was possible/had been done before?
And then in theory I could run d16 rods and pistons right?

hatchaddict01

its possible and has been done many many times, and yes you can use d16 rods but not the pistons as they will stick out of the hole, the d15b has a one of a kind piston with a 27.40 mm compression height and the smallest compression height d16 piston is 29mm and thats the p29 and it will stick up .052 out of the hole. and becareful which d15b crank you use as only the single stage vtec version has the big rod journals

xtreemHonda

What kind of pistons should i try to run then if I'm looking for aftermarket?
And that means I have to have the single stage vtec crank?

hatchaddict01

yes you have to have the single stage vtec crank. what are you trying to build with thtis n/a high comp or boost?

xtreemHonda

A z6 mini me with no higher than a 11.5 comp.
I want my dd to be a little bit quicker, and i figured if I got the JDM crank it would be more reliable and give me a ton more rod and piston options.

hatchaddict01

nope wont give you mere options on piston rod combo's. the mini-me with a z6 head and gasket will already yeils about 10.2:1 compwith the factory b7 pistons, if you want more mill the head a little but in my opinion a mini-me isnt worth the it the power to money spent ratio is worth it. mill the b7 head .040 with an a6 cam and y7 cam gear and a z6 intake mani will yeild more power then a mini-me and be much cheaper

xtreemHonda

It really bothers me using OEM stuff tho. Call me Ricer but I want aftermarket parts at least in my engine.
And it should open up more options, it'll at least be cheaper than the 700 dollar crower rods.
I wish someone would show me a link to the Eagle rods that are supposedly availble for my engine.
And I don't see why everyone says that about mini me's, it should cost me less than a grand for a fully built z6 head, and I would hope that with a cam, intake manifold, and valvetrain and such, that I would get at least a 60 horsepower increase. Then with rods and pistons, and a crank, and I/H/E/ I shouldn't be too far from 200 horsepower.

hatchaddict01

you will never get 200hp form a n/a dseries espesialy a d15. it can be done but with ALOT of money and knowledge and will not be streetable. be happy to get 140whp from a d15 unless you got loads of knowledge

Targa250R

This made me laugh. Hard.

After all that money and effort building the top end, bottom end, and for bolt-ons, you'll be lucky to gain 60hp over the stock D15B7's 102hp.

To make 200 horsepower at the flywheel with an NA D15, you'd have to rev it over 10,000 RPM while sustaining the torque curve that high. That's not going to happen without investing thousands of dollars, and it's not going to be suitable for daily driver duty at all either. It's not cost effective at all to start with a D15 if you're setting goals like those. If you're balking at $700 connecting rods now, then you aren't going to be touching anything near 200hp with that engine any time soon.

If it were as easy as you mistakenly think it is, everyone would be doing it already instead of swapping to other engines or running forced induction.

hatchaddict01

i agree that you not gonna get 200hp out of a n/a d15 but add some boost and 200 hp aint ****. i dont do engine swaps because im personaly a fan of the underdog d-series but thats me, ive beat lots of swaped cars with n/a d's and built b's with boosted d's and d's are cheap to build and if built right can be loads of fun, i have since givin up on building boost engines as i find it to easy to make power but if you can build a n/a d to 180+ whp then youve done something. but its all personal preferance and myself im happy spending time and money to build n/a engines although alot of people thing its stupid and a waste of time and money

xtreemHonda

I guess I'm guiltyy of ricer math because that seems like it would add up. My bad.

thumper64

You could do a B18c1 swap for $1k, and it will be more fun, more reliable and have more potential to improve upon. You can do anything with that motor, which is why it's so popular and thus, tons of aftermarket support.

Red_ED8

iTrader: (1)

Show me where I can get a B18C1, tranny, mounts, ecu, and the rest of the misc swap stuff for $1K and I'll quit my build right now.

Targa250R

I don't disagree; an NA D-series is plenty of fun. My favorite engine that I've ever owned was a D16A6.

I'm just saying that 200hp is completely unrealistic for a street D15 on a budget.

Are you looney?

A B18C swap for $1000? Yeah, maybe if you swapped in an engine that already had a conecting rod sticking through the block . . .

xtreemHonda

Alright, so 200 horses is unreachable but I can handle that.
Do you believe that if I did the mini me swap with a stage two cam and upgraded valvetrain, the JDM crank and forged rods and pistons, and a few other things, that I could have a reliable fun daily driver?

hatchaddict01

you could have a fun reliable dd buy doing what i said in post 6, you could have even more fun with a .060 mill and a stg2 or 3 cam and a better intake mani and a good header and tune. no need for forged rods and pistons its a complete waste of money. the pistons that are stock in a b7 are of the best design for a n/a application as they are 0 decked flat tops nice complete burn and easy to tune. the most i would do is arp rod bolts and maybe shot peen the rods other then that the stock bottom end is fine for a n/a build. also screw the mini me in my opinion there is no benifit, the setup i spoke of in post 6 will make more power then a mini-me and cost next to nothing to do, that setup has already been proven to put 120+whp out and with the other stuff i mentioned you should be close to 140 or more easy and cheap

Sr420Det

"ricer math" hahahah...classic

xtreemHonda

I've always heard that the rods and pistons were toothpicks in b7s but I guess it won't matter if I don't break 150 horses.
So basically this is the build plans, so someone give me ideas for brands or any other ideas:
3 angle valve job
.5mm over valves
Shotpeen the rods
ARP Rod bolts
stage 2 cam
titanium valve springs and retainers
Exhaust
header
ARP headstuds
optima battery
90 or 120 amp alternator(I'll have a small system)
skunk2 Intake mani
CAI
Mishimoto Radiator(just cuz I always have problems with stock radiators )
OEM Timing belt, and water pump
Injectors (size and brand?)
Walbro Fuel pump
AEM Fuel Rail
Headgasket?
NGK plugs and wires

xtreemHonda

Taking straight out of a Mustang magazine.
At least I didn't start a thread saying anything about a three deck carbon fiber wing.

hatchaddict01

xtreemHonda

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda...item563f9c0313
Do you think if I got that muffler and a megan racing header and hi flow cat, and had a exhaust shop put 2.25in piping it would give a decent power increase/not sound too ricey?