D series blocks
#1
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D series blocks
Are all D series blocks the same? . My Z6 has over 200k on it, But my head has around 50k. I want to go turbo in the near future. So I wanted to know if the Y8 is somewhat the same as the Z6 block.
And what would block with internals cost?
And what would block with internals cost?
#2
Re: D series blocks (Caveman74)
Yeah the y8 block and the z6 is the same. You can put the y8 block with your z6 head but I would double check to see if the head gaskets are the same.
I wouldn't bother with internals. You would be better off just buying another motor, way cheaper.
I wouldn't bother with internals. You would be better off just buying another motor, way cheaper.
#4
Re: D series blocks (Caveman74)
Functionally they're very similar. Consider the Y8 block the v2.0 of the Z6 block(v1.0) Even though there are way more D series blocks that i am functionally aware of(D15's, y7, etc). Two bigest things that stood out to me when i changed to a Y8 block are 1) dipstick is moved from center front to right front(as viewing the motor from the front of the car) and 2) no coolant drain plug on the front (or that i have either found or honestly cared enough to look for). I'm sure someone else could get down to the technical aspects which i dont know well, so go ahead because i wouldn't mind knowing.
Here's what really effects you. A motor with 200k miles on it is going to most likely be inferior to motor of the same design thats newer. Now, the Y8 block is the block of choice for the fastest full drag D series while the Z6 head is the head of choice (compression vs flow in this case). I know lots of you have stock Z6's that are fast/quick, thats really not important. If your going to build the motor, its not really important which block. Though the Y8 being newer im sure has a few benefits. As for internal costs, you DONT need to sleeve the motor, its solid to roughly 18psi with good tuning. If you dont tune it well, it will explode, this is standard for any motor. BUT that doesn't mean not to sleeve it, its a very very good idea.
Your costs are: Rods, Pistons, Rings, Bearings(always check/replace these if needed) head studs(you'll need 2 different sets if you mix any combo of Y8 and Z6), Sleeves (darton, benson, GE, and many other big names who do great work), and then labor. There are also gaskets, seals, pumps and what not that you should replace but its up to you. Rough cost of all parts (new, no hookups because not everyone gets em) is between 1200-2000 depending on if you sleeve or not. Thats just parts to do it right, and those arent using the "top of the line" necessarily. This would be a solid block that if matched well to a turbo could make great power. And research your machinist, look at his work and his record in racing motors. A good machinist is worth more than all those parts together. I've had the deck of my block done poorly and now, i'm deciding whether to rebuild or change motor/cars/manufaturers and man, IT SUCKS.
Good luck
Here's what really effects you. A motor with 200k miles on it is going to most likely be inferior to motor of the same design thats newer. Now, the Y8 block is the block of choice for the fastest full drag D series while the Z6 head is the head of choice (compression vs flow in this case). I know lots of you have stock Z6's that are fast/quick, thats really not important. If your going to build the motor, its not really important which block. Though the Y8 being newer im sure has a few benefits. As for internal costs, you DONT need to sleeve the motor, its solid to roughly 18psi with good tuning. If you dont tune it well, it will explode, this is standard for any motor. BUT that doesn't mean not to sleeve it, its a very very good idea.
Your costs are: Rods, Pistons, Rings, Bearings(always check/replace these if needed) head studs(you'll need 2 different sets if you mix any combo of Y8 and Z6), Sleeves (darton, benson, GE, and many other big names who do great work), and then labor. There are also gaskets, seals, pumps and what not that you should replace but its up to you. Rough cost of all parts (new, no hookups because not everyone gets em) is between 1200-2000 depending on if you sleeve or not. Thats just parts to do it right, and those arent using the "top of the line" necessarily. This would be a solid block that if matched well to a turbo could make great power. And research your machinist, look at his work and his record in racing motors. A good machinist is worth more than all those parts together. I've had the deck of my block done poorly and now, i'm deciding whether to rebuild or change motor/cars/manufaturers and man, IT SUCKS.
Good luck
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Re: D series blocks (bad93ex)
From Exospeed.com http://www.exospeed.com/engine/Dseriesblocks.htm
D16 race block Stage 1: Stock rebuilt block $1,446.00
1. Honda pistons
2. Piston rings
3. Bearings
4. Bottom end gasket kit
5. New Oil pump
6. Bore, hone, step decked, resurfaced,
and hot tank block and R&R rods
7. Oil Filter
8. Assembly
D16 race block Stage 1: Stock rebuilt block $1,446.00
1. Honda pistons
2. Piston rings
3. Bearings
4. Bottom end gasket kit
5. New Oil pump
6. Bore, hone, step decked, resurfaced,
and hot tank block and R&R rods
7. Oil Filter
8. Assembly
#7
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Re: D series blocks (BauleyCivic)
I dont want to throw a grand to make a race engine, I just want to take my head off of my Z6 and put on a Y8, that has less miles.. Or find a Y8 engine for cheap
It would be nice for the exospeed blocks though!
It would be nice for the exospeed blocks though!
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