JDM H23A

I doubt anybody can help me with this, but I guess we'll see. I have a 1992 Civic CX (I don't know if it matters, but it's a Canadian model wtihout a factory tachometer) with a 2000 JDM H23A engine swap. I'm using a P28 ECU (running stock JDM H22A maps), and I also have a APEXi VAFC II (which I've been using to shift off of).

I bought an AutoMeter Monster tachometer a while back and everything on it worked (the ground, illumination, and power are all hooked up...even the blue ond brown wires on the back-side are cut like they should be), but I couldn't get it to read the RPM signal (the green wire).

I sent the tachometer back to AutoMeter (I live about an hour away from their headquarters in Sycamore, IL), and they ended up replacing it with a new one...free of charge. I was all excited to install the new one so I could actually shift accurately, but when I did, I had the same EXACT problem. Everything works fine, but I still can't get the RPM signal. Obviously there's something weird with my car...

I've tried running the green wire to both the blue-capped wire on the driver's side strut tower and the blue wire off of the distributor, but I still can't get anything. Does someone have a pin-out of the P28 ECU (can I try running it to there)? Does anyone else have any idea? Thanks a lot for the help

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

Did you try connecting the green wire to the negative end of the ignition coil like the directions says to do?

JDM H23A

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueIntegraBoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you try connecting the green wire to the negative end of the ignition coil like the directions says to do?</TD></TR></TABLE>

OK...I'm still using the JDM H23A distributor, but I'm using a 1995 Si cap and rotor. The coil is internal, not external. I talked to one of my mechanic buddies at Honda, and he said that it would be a pain in the *** to wire the tachometer with an internal coil.

Since I have a APEXi VAFC II installed, he told me that I should run the green wire from the tachometer to the green wire on VAFC (since my VAFC is getting an RPM signal). I don't know that much about all of this bullshit, but when I looked at the wires coming from the VAFC, there were 9 "thicker" wires that were closer to the VAFC, a clip, and then 9 smaller wires coming out from he other side of the clip that were closer to the ECU.

I tapped into both of the green VAFC wires (one at a time), and I finally got the RPM signal. However, the tachometer is reading EXACTLY double of what the VAFC is reading (the VAFC is the one that's correct). What gives?

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

It's not a pain in the *** to wire it up to the internal coil. I did it with my GSR before I thought of connecting it to the blue wire. Remove the cap, and take off the rotor. Then unscrew the screw for the negative side.

Also, did you cut the looped wires on the back to work on 4 cyl. engines?

Luserkid

A21 on the ecu pin.



Just dont have it wired up on or near the VAFC signal. Have it like a good amount away from it so they dont interfer with each other. Some will say you dont have to im just, better safe then sorry.

Black Si

there should be a switch on the back of the tach 4-6-8 it is they cylinder number selector are you sure you are on the right one?

SIcivicHATCH

take to someone who knows what they are doing and buy a magazine and sit and wait for someone else to do it.

You doing it:
Tachometer: $149.95
New Motor from over reving because you didnt hook it up right: $850
Total: $999.95

Somone else doing it:
Tachometer: $149.95
Magazine: $5.99
Install: $45
Total: $A whole lot less!!! good luck

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

Too bad you cant take it to me. I just hooked one up today.

Equilibrium

Just reconnect the blue wires together insulate with tape. I believe your car is a 2 Pulse, that's why you'd be getting the 2x RPM reading. You wired the tach as a 4 CYL 1 pulse. Tell me if this works.

PS Good Luck!

JDM H23A

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueIntegraBoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also, did you cut the looped wires on the back to work on 4 cyl. engines?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The looped wires are cut (see my original post). I'm going to take the car over to my buddy today and try hooking it up through the ECU before I go to the distributor. I think it would be "cleaner" to have the wire inside of the car.

I appreciate everyone's help with this. It's been pissing me off for a long time, and I'm sick of shifting by looking off of my VAFC...especially since I'm have an ACT ProLite flywheel

LShatchie

I have a autometer tachometer in my Cx with a B18a1 and I just have the black ground wire on the body of my car, the blue wire i think it is going to the blue wire on the distributor for the signal, then theres 2 other wires i forget what colors they are but they are both going to my fuse box

mister2racer

just set the shift light for 15,000 rpm and be done with it.


Modified by mister2racer at 10:18 AM 2/24/2005

JDM H23A

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mister2racer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just set the shift light for 15,000 rpm and be done with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why don't you build my engine so I can actually shift at 15,000 RPM's, and I will...the build would be free of charge of course

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM H23A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why don't you build my engine so I can actually shift at 15,000 RPM's, and I will...the build would be free of charge of course </TD></TR></TABLE>

He's saying this because your tach is twice of that of the actual RPM. Too bad the tach doesnt go to 15,000 RPMs.

JDM H23A

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueIntegraBoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
He's saying this because your tach is twice of that of the actual RPM. Too bad the tach doesnt go to 15,000 RPMs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

He only said that because he's my friend, and he's ******* with me

JDM H23A

Stupid-*** AutoMeter! I was getting a double signal bus as soon as I connected the brown wires back together (the one on the back of the tachometer that is supposed to be cut, which I did, for you 4 cylinder), everything was fine... WTF