crazy idle problem
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
crazy idle problem
I have to resset my ecu every day or two because of having a test pipe on an obd2 car. So far I hadn't really noticed any problem with the check engine light until now. This has happened once or twice in the past month and just yesterday it did it and also did it this morning too as soon as the light came on. My idle will raise up to 1500 and kinda bounce around there constantly. When I resset my ecu it will go away. Do you guys know what the problem is?
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: crazy idle problem (nY's FiNeSt)
it kinda seems like something is getting stuck open on the im by the ecu and allowing excess air in maybe?
#5
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: (JMU1337)
so yours does the same thing? Do you think that it will only happen once my car is throwing the catalyst ecu code because of having no cat? I am getting an obd1 conversion soon so that should take care of that code from being thrown.
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: (JMU1337)
well where does it idle at? Mine just site there and constantly bounces around at 1500-1550 rpms
kinda making a vroom vroom vroom vroom sound. It will not go down at all even when I am completely stopped. It just sticks in that spot. Also it will cause my car to drive horrible. When I shift It boggs down a lot and acts real funny just like when I had a vacuum leak after removing my cruise control. Except that was idling even worse . My dumbass just forgot to plug the hole.
kinda making a vroom vroom vroom vroom sound. It will not go down at all even when I am completely stopped. It just sticks in that spot. Also it will cause my car to drive horrible. When I shift It boggs down a lot and acts real funny just like when I had a vacuum leak after removing my cruise control. Except that was idling even worse . My dumbass just forgot to plug the hole.
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#10
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: (twistd)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by twistd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats the code?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I haven't had a chance to check it yet. I've know the other code I'm throwing is a 67 which is catalyst. I haven't had time to check this other code because it always seems to happen while I'm driving somewhere and don't have time to pull over and check for a code. I usually do have to pull over and resset my ecu though. My car is almost undrivable with it acting like this.
I haven't had a chance to check it yet. I've know the other code I'm throwing is a 67 which is catalyst. I haven't had time to check this other code because it always seems to happen while I'm driving somewhere and don't have time to pull over and check for a code. I usually do have to pull over and resset my ecu though. My car is almost undrivable with it acting like this.
#13
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: (2lua)
how do I do an idle reset? Also I haven't checked my throttle cable. Should I? I would think that if it was messed up resseting the ecu wouldn't fix it.
#16
Re: crazy idle problem (SOHC_MShue)
its probably your idle air control valve i had the same problem but i have to weld the intake manifold, the only thing that does is raise the idle of the car when its cold to help warm the motor
#17
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: (JDMlifestyle)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlifestyle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check your codes. mine was a TPS sensor i just unplugged it and then reset the ECU then plugged the sensor back in and everything is all good now</TD></TR></TABLE>
was yours doing the same thing as mine? Did it provide a temporary fix when you resse the ecu?
was yours doing the same thing as mine? Did it provide a temporary fix when you resse the ecu?
#21
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Re: (SOHC_MShue)
this procedure is from the hondaswap site.
Fixing an Erratic Idle
By: Adam
Let me give you some background on my del sol if you haven't been around long. It will be a year ago in March that I put my JDM B16 SIR II into my del sol. Since the day it went into the car, it would not idle correctly. There was always a surge. The following is a list of steps I took to cure my idle problem.. it took me just shy of a year to get it to work properly, but it's done!!
1) Check the voltage on your Throttle Position sensor. Sometimes when doing swaps, you have to use your old throttle position sensor because the one that came with the swap is almost always broken. The Honda ECU looks for .5 volts when the throttle blade is closed and 4.5 volts at wide open throttle. You can measure this with the aid of Hondata or an Apexi Vafc, or a handy old voltmeter.
2) Unplug your Idle Air Control Valve (IAC), which is located on the back of the intake manifold. Doing this SHOULD cause the idle speed to increase if it functioning properly. If it does not increase, then you have found your problem... go get a new one. If the idle speed does increase, begin to turn the bypass screw on the throttle body and bring the idle of the car down to like 500-600 rpm, then plug back in your IAC valve. This should bring the speed back to a normal 800 or so rpm. In the event that doesn't work...
3) Check your ignition timing and make sure it is at the stock spec. Usually 16*... see my article on cam timing.
4) Chances are now that you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Trace all of the vacuum lines and make sure there is no leak anywhere. Some people use a little bit of lubricant and spray it on the hoses to watch for bubbles. Personally I have never done this; so try at your own risk. If it still doesn't idle properly, keep reading.
5) Did your Throttle Body get bored out at all? Is Air bypassing the blade?
6) Another thing that sometimes causes cars to idle poorly is too much fuel. Do you have a Fuel Pressure regulator? Make sure that it has a vacuum reference and that it is within specs at static idle. Honda recommends 30-38 psi. So anywhere within there would be worth a try. To adjust your pressure at static idle, Hondata suggests that you do it without the car running. Turn the key to "ON" and the fuel pump will prime the system, then you can adjust your fuel pressure accordingly.
7) At this point I began to think it was my ECU causing the car to run poorly. I was running a p28 chipped with everything under the sun.. I had it all: skunk2 , mugen n1, jun, visions, spoon... all those reburned programs you can buy. None of them seemed to work. I looked into Hondata. Hondata is the savior of my idle... or so I thought. Apparently no one told me this, but Hondata had a problem running B16's with p28 ECU's for some reason. Well after several attempts of having new programs made that ran more lean at idle and generally just wasting my time... I found a lonely sole in Minnesota who had what he claimed was the magical map that fixes the p28/b16 idle problem. He sent it to me... I took it to Tom Payn at http://www.PaynTechnologies.com and had him write the program to my ECU and presto it's run great ever since.
The above is just a short list of possible things it could be ... but they are all things you can undertake without paying someone else to do it. Good Luck and if you need the hondata idle fix, or have any questions please email me: Pills@hondaswap.com
this procedure is from the hondaswap site.
Fixing an Erratic Idle
By: Adam
Let me give you some background on my del sol if you haven't been around long. It will be a year ago in March that I put my JDM B16 SIR II into my del sol. Since the day it went into the car, it would not idle correctly. There was always a surge. The following is a list of steps I took to cure my idle problem.. it took me just shy of a year to get it to work properly, but it's done!!
1) Check the voltage on your Throttle Position sensor. Sometimes when doing swaps, you have to use your old throttle position sensor because the one that came with the swap is almost always broken. The Honda ECU looks for .5 volts when the throttle blade is closed and 4.5 volts at wide open throttle. You can measure this with the aid of Hondata or an Apexi Vafc, or a handy old voltmeter.
2) Unplug your Idle Air Control Valve (IAC), which is located on the back of the intake manifold. Doing this SHOULD cause the idle speed to increase if it functioning properly. If it does not increase, then you have found your problem... go get a new one. If the idle speed does increase, begin to turn the bypass screw on the throttle body and bring the idle of the car down to like 500-600 rpm, then plug back in your IAC valve. This should bring the speed back to a normal 800 or so rpm. In the event that doesn't work...
3) Check your ignition timing and make sure it is at the stock spec. Usually 16*... see my article on cam timing.
4) Chances are now that you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Trace all of the vacuum lines and make sure there is no leak anywhere. Some people use a little bit of lubricant and spray it on the hoses to watch for bubbles. Personally I have never done this; so try at your own risk. If it still doesn't idle properly, keep reading.
5) Did your Throttle Body get bored out at all? Is Air bypassing the blade?
6) Another thing that sometimes causes cars to idle poorly is too much fuel. Do you have a Fuel Pressure regulator? Make sure that it has a vacuum reference and that it is within specs at static idle. Honda recommends 30-38 psi. So anywhere within there would be worth a try. To adjust your pressure at static idle, Hondata suggests that you do it without the car running. Turn the key to "ON" and the fuel pump will prime the system, then you can adjust your fuel pressure accordingly.
7) At this point I began to think it was my ECU causing the car to run poorly. I was running a p28 chipped with everything under the sun.. I had it all: skunk2 , mugen n1, jun, visions, spoon... all those reburned programs you can buy. None of them seemed to work. I looked into Hondata. Hondata is the savior of my idle... or so I thought. Apparently no one told me this, but Hondata had a problem running B16's with p28 ECU's for some reason. Well after several attempts of having new programs made that ran more lean at idle and generally just wasting my time... I found a lonely sole in Minnesota who had what he claimed was the magical map that fixes the p28/b16 idle problem. He sent it to me... I took it to Tom Payn at http://www.PaynTechnologies.com and had him write the program to my ECU and presto it's run great ever since.
The above is just a short list of possible things it could be ... but they are all things you can undertake without paying someone else to do it. Good Luck and if you need the hondata idle fix, or have any questions please email me: Pills@hondaswap.com
this procedure is from the hondaswap site.
#22
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (2lua)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2lua »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2) Unplug your Idle Air Control Valve (IAC), which is located on the back of the intake manifold. Doing this SHOULD cause the idle speed to increase if it functioning properly. If it does not increase, then you have found your problem... go get a new one. If the idle speed does increase, begin to turn the bypass screw on the throttle body and bring the idle of the car down to like 500-600 rpm, then plug back in your IAC valve. This should bring the speed back to a normal 800 or so rpm. In the event that doesn't work...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
This should not be the case. When a 2-wire IACV is unplugged it effectively closes down and should not allow air to bypass anymore. If this does NOT happen, you've found a problem with your IACV.
When setting the idle, you should unplug it, which should result in your idle coming down to the 'base idle speed' of about 500 rpms. When you plug it back in, it should raise back up to about 750rpm, or whatever the 'curb idle speed' is for the particular engine/ecu.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
This should not be the case. When a 2-wire IACV is unplugged it effectively closes down and should not allow air to bypass anymore. If this does NOT happen, you've found a problem with your IACV.
When setting the idle, you should unplug it, which should result in your idle coming down to the 'base idle speed' of about 500 rpms. When you plug it back in, it should raise back up to about 750rpm, or whatever the 'curb idle speed' is for the particular engine/ecu.
#23
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: (2lua)
thanks for the info guys . The strange thing with my problem though is that it goes away after resseting my ecu. Have you guys ever heard of this problem?
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