Crank, No Start + Loose Timing Belt. Replace Tensioner?
#1
Crank, No Start + Loose Timing Belt. Replace Tensioner?
1996 Civic DX, D15 motor (swapped when stock motor died).
Finished a long road trip 10 days ago without any major issues, car sat for a week, then it wouldn't start. Prior to this, I had only issues with a low idle when it was hot outside. Several times, the car died on freeway exit ramps or at stop lights, but it would always start right back up. This may be unrelated. Anyway, I ran through a diagnostic checklist for crank/no start (spark, fuel, clear flood, probably a couple other things). Here were my two failures:
I assume the belt skipped a tooth or two and threw off the timing, causing the no start problem. Should I replace the tensioner right away? What other tests should I run? Does the 30-30-30-10 compression read-out mean anything in light of the fact that I didn't cut the fuel flow by flooring the pedal while testing?
For future lurkers and so no one has to go to the trouble, here is the tension procedure (courtesy of RonJ), along with a screenshot of another user's explanation:
Finished a long road trip 10 days ago without any major issues, car sat for a week, then it wouldn't start. Prior to this, I had only issues with a low idle when it was hot outside. Several times, the car died on freeway exit ramps or at stop lights, but it would always start right back up. This may be unrelated. Anyway, I ran through a diagnostic checklist for crank/no start (spark, fuel, clear flood, probably a couple other things). Here were my two failures:
- Low compression on all four cylinders (~30 psi cylinders 4-2 and 10 psi in 1). I realized after the fact that I ran the test incorrectly by not flooring the gas pedal while turning on the ignition.
- Timing belt quite loose on right side (toward rear of car/front of motor). I saw this before I realized the compression test was done incorrectly.
I assume the belt skipped a tooth or two and threw off the timing, causing the no start problem. Should I replace the tensioner right away? What other tests should I run? Does the 30-30-30-10 compression read-out mean anything in light of the fact that I didn't cut the fuel flow by flooring the pedal while testing?
For future lurkers and so no one has to go to the trouble, here is the tension procedure (courtesy of RonJ), along with a screenshot of another user's explanation:
#3
Re: Crank, No Start + Loose Timing Belt. Replace Tensioner?
Mechanical timing for SOHC: Remove valve cover and upper timing belt cover. Use a 17-mm socket and ratchet to turn the crankshaft pulley counterclockwise until the camshaft gear is oriented precisely at TDC1 (see diagram). With the cam gear in this position, the white TDC1 mark on the crankshaft pulley should align precisely with the pointer (see diagram). If not, the mechanical timing is OFF.
#5
Re: Crank, No Start + Loose Timing Belt. Replace Tensioner?
It's off. White mark is ~1/4" right (rear of car) of the TDC indicator above the crank pulley.
Is the best practice to simply fix the timing issue, retension the belt, and hope it doesn't happen again? Or should I go ahead and replace the tensioner?
Is the best practice to simply fix the timing issue, retension the belt, and hope it doesn't happen again? Or should I go ahead and replace the tensioner?
#6
Fish Twig
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Still hunting that foo up there
Posts: 15,555
Received 309 Likes
on
285 Posts
Re: Crank, No Start + Loose Timing Belt. Replace Tensioner?
fix timing belt, if its never been replaced than you need to replace it. Its best to replace cam/crank seals, water pump, tensioner w/spring along with the Timing belt. If you can't afford all of that than just the belt and tension w/spring. But know this, if something were to fail, or leaks, you'll have to take all of that back out again.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ddn1313
Honda Minivans, Crossovers, and Trucks
2
08-04-2018 02:46 PM