SaberLily

So, as the title says, my Civic cranks but won't start. It's a 1994 Civic LX 4 door with 295,000km. Original engine, D15B7.

I changed the passenger side upper control arm. It did start after that, and I parked it. Two days later, won't start.

What I've changed since I've had it:

• Cap, rotor, spark plug wires, spark plugs, new battery - about a month ago
• Fuel filter, air filter - 2 months ago

There are no check engine lights. When the service connector is jumpered, I have a solid check engine light constant.

Coil resistance: 1.0ohm and 13.5kohm
Injector resistance: 11.7-11.8ohm
Injector harness providing battery voltage (10.8v after it's been trying to crank a lot, currently charging up the battery)
Battery is at 11.13v (again, trying to start the car, currently charging up)

I will be testing for spark and seeing if each injector is working when my father is home. From what I can tell, the coil primary is about 0.2ohm greater than the suggested value of 0.6-0.8ohm. I am unsure if this is enough to cause a no start issue.

I do not wish to just throw parts at it and see what works; my wallet has limits. Any input is appreciated. Would like to get it working asap, starting university in 2 days.

EDIT: Confirmed no spark

alston3ptswish

LOL stop touching cars if your car doesnt crank after a control arm replacement

SaberLily

Learn to read. I changed the control arm, then parked the car. It drove AFTER the arm was replaced. It may be coincidental that it died 2 days after.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

So the control arm has nothing to do with it. Don't know why it was even mentioned. It's a non-related system.
"I washed my car then a radiator hose blew."

There is a thread that details what to do for a no-start situation in the FAQs.

alston3ptswish

Thank You...

Guido492

We're having the same problem. We've gotten to the last item on the list which is the crank position sensor. Having a helluva time breaking the crank bolt loose though.

josh_herrin

do you have the crank pulley holder tool? my shitty compressor had trouble impacting mine off got the holder and two big breaker bars and it was still a PITA but it came off

SaberLily

Dead coil. Bought one from Canadian Tire to put in and see, since that's the only thing that was slightly out of spec.

Started up first crank after. Also, curse Honda for using the softest metal screws in existence. Strips with no effort, had to break the old coil and use vise grips to remove the screws.

Odd that the coil tested very close to spec, and died out of nowhere. So picky.

Guido492

We tried everything. Borrowed the pulley holder from a mechanic buddy and still couldn't pop it loose. He wound up coming over and gave the breaker bar a few Jackie Chan moves and it finally popped. He said it was the hardest crank bolt he's ever tried to get off.

HondaPartsHero

The crank position sensor is in the distributor. You are referring to the crank fluctuation sensor which will not cause the car not to start.

OP when you turn the car to accessory does the check engine light come on for two seconds then cut off (and audibly hear the fuel pump prime)? If not and the light stays on you have a failing main relay.

josh_herrin

yeah those crank pulley bolts can get crazy tight. i was jumping up and down on the breaker bar and eventually got it to pop but it was ridiculous a 2 foot-ish long breaker couldn't hardly pop it with 200 lbs bouncing on it

Guido492

Well we replaced the Crank Fluctuation Sensor last night, buttoned everything back up, and still no spark. Took a test light to the dizzy connector plug with the key in the ON position and not a single sign of power is coming to the dizzy. Thoughts? We're going to jump back on it tonight after we get off work.

strategy400

Weird, I have a '95 D15B7 and there are no sensors behind the timing cover.

Guido492

This sensor had a tendancy to rub against the alt belt, fray wires, and short out causing a no spark issue. But this wasn't our problem. Now people are telling me to replace the ECU but finding one locally for a 98 auto is like looking for a needle in a hay stack.

Guido492

NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH!

Autozoners for the win!

Former User

Don't thread jack. In the future, create your own thread.

Guido492

He was having the same problems we were and I wanted to post up what fixed our situation. Might be the same for him. And this website is overloaded with threads to begin with which makes searching a PITA. I like to keep it simple.

Former User

Your problem (no crank) is completely different than the OP's problem.