mike93eh

ok lets start here...
i had a d15b7 turbo, put a y8 head on it and it blew up. got a z6 block. put it in with the y8 head. it also has a brand new headgasket copper sprayed, arp head studs torqued to 60 lbs., etc.
drove it around and noticed the water pump was leaking. i replaced it and now my coolant resevoir is overflowing?? wtf...
btw ALMOST everything on and off my engine is BRAND new. i had problems like this with my b7 and the oem hg and arp studs fixed it.

O3DigitalBath

i'm not sure on the D-series, but I know on the others the ARP headstuds are supposed to torqued down tighter than that....

JibOnALib

You've probably already checked this out, but just to throw it in, maybe your thermostat is sticking. My reservoir was overflowing because of this, hopefully this helps a little.

jameskersten1

may be a stupid suggestion but how old is your rad cap?

CiSmoEk4

when you blew up your last motor was it because you overheated it??? if you did, you possibly could've warped the head.

mike93eh

i did notice my radiator cap was broken the piece was broken off the bottom. i dont know how. but i replaced it and the same **** is happening, i thought for sure that fix it. gonna throw another t-stat on today even though its brand new...along with everything else.

boostincoupe

If you didn't take your Y8 head to the machine shop to get resurfaced, you're an idiot.

It's warped, your ARP's should have been torqued to 65 ft./lbs., and you're probably running too much ignition timing.

mike93eh

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostincoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you didn't take your Y8 head to the machine shop to get resurfaced, you're an idiot.

It's warped, your ARP's should have been torqued to 65 ft./lbs., and you're probably running too much ignition timing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

why is it warped? i had it checked out. becuase if i had to get it resurfaced i would of sold it. dont need the compression.

actually my arp instructions say otherwise...

my ignition timing is stock, 16 degrees, i think it is.

mike93eh

ok explain this one....

put a new t-stat in and tested the old one by putting it in boiling water. it opened and closed just fine.

did a compression check, 180psi across the board.

did a leak down test. no leaks at all.

you would think those two tests would show something if my overflowing resevoir was being caused by compression entering the coolant passages.

i used a b7 headgasket so my cr would be 9.2:1 instead of the 9.4:1 the mls z6 headgasket would of gave me. since i am using a y8 head, which you know gives higher cr because of the bottoms arent full circles like the z6 heads. even sprayed copperspray on it for good measure. arp studs torqued to 60 lbs. deck and head are straight.

new headgasket, waterpump, thermostat, radiator, 16lbs. radiator cap, new 50/50 coolant mix, among anything else you can think of.

so now what else could it be?? i have a bad feeling im going to have to take the head off again for the millionth time. im sick of this thing. ever since i boosted it, ive done nothing but work on it.

mike93eh

wow seems like you all are just as stumped as i am...

SoSlo

could also be a clogged or partially clogged radiator

mike93eh

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SoSlo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">could also be a clogged or partially clogged radiator</TD></TR></TABLE>

its brand new dual-core and fluid flows through it quite nicely when i drain and flushed it.

rodrez.

Sounds silly, but does your fan kick on?
I had a fan not working, and when I'd come to a stoplight, the resovoir would boil and overflow.

moto1320

When does it overflow. Are we talking as soon as it comes to operating temp idling in the driveway or after a run.

SoSlo

there is only so much that can cause you to overheat
radiator,
fan,
thermostate,
water pump.

if it is all brand new then it could be head lift. i have seen several times where a car will only overheat when running constantly this is caused by a small leak in the head gasket.

BoostdRex

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rodrez. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds silly, but does your fan kick on?</TD></TR></TABLE>

mike93eh

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rodrez. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds silly, but does your fan kick on?
I had a fan not working, and when I'd come to a stoplight, the resovoir would boil and overflow. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yes it kicks on.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by moto1320 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When does it overflow. Are we talking as soon as it comes to operating temp idling in the driveway or after a run.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont know if it does it while idling. but it does it after just normal driving. by normal driving i mean not going past 3200 rpms or boosting.

the car has not overheated yet. just had it out for maybe 60 miles after putting the new block in. well my temp gauges started to rise a little above halfway at a stoplight and then i started moving and it went back to normal. my other gauge normally reads 220-230 and it moved up to 250+

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SoSlo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there is only so much that can cause you to overheat
radiator,
fan,
thermostate,
water pump.

if it is all brand new then it could be head lift. i have seen several times where a car will only overheat when running constantly this is caused by a small leak in the head gasket. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yea with my d15b7 i had headlift and a oem hg and arp studs fixed it. now i have this new z6 engine y8 head, it has a brand new oem hg and headstuds. it started doing it with it being only 1 mile old.

BoostdRex

I just had this problem. May I suggest making sure that the fan is wired to go the direction it's designed to go? I accidently had my fan wired opposite of what it was supposed to. Got it fixed now.

My overheating issue: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1352670

mike93eh

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostdRex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just had this problem. May I suggest making sure that the fan is wired to go the direction it's designed to go? I accidently had my fan wired opposite of what it was supposed to. Got it fixed now.

My overheating issue: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1352670</TD></TR></TABLE>

my fan pulls air from the radiator. ive never messed with the fan since i bought this car 100% stock. besides putting a new fan switch in.

b18ccivics

check and make sure you line going from your radiator to your tank does not have a hole in it and the line going into the tank does not have a hole in it. When water heats up it expands so it goes to the tank, when it cools of water is sucked back into the radiator, if there is a leak water can not get sucked back. The reason you dont see a coolant leak is that the the hole is so small (if that is the problem you are having) the water is hot and it evaporates.

moto1320

If it was a headgasket issue or warped head then getting moving again would only make it worse, not drop the temp. Sounds like an airflow problem. How much of an obstruction is your intercooler for your radiator setup?

mike93eh

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18ccivics &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check and make sure you line going from your radiator to your tank does not have a hole in it and the line going into the tank does not have a hole in it. When water heats up it expands so it goes to the tank, when it cools of water is sucked back into the radiator, if there is a leak water can not get sucked back. The reason you dont see a coolant leak is that the the hole is so small (if that is the problem you are having) the water is hot and it evaporates.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i have a brand new oem resevoir hose (it even had a part number and all for it haha). real nice hose though, not **** you get at a autoparts store..you name it, its new.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by moto1320 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it was a headgasket issue or warped head then getting moving again would only make it worse, not drop the temp. Sounds like an airflow problem. How much of an obstruction is your intercooler for your radiator setup?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea thats what i thought. but yea the couple times i stopped, temp went up a little and then went back to normal once i started moving. but it starting to look like ill be taking the head off again for the 1,569th time. my gf sure is getting sick of me working on my car 24/7..

but my intercooler does block the radiator but air can flow thru it. anyways ive been boosted for about 6 or so months now and havent had a problem with it before.

i recently put this z6 block in with the y8 head and when i first started her up the water pump was leaking bad. so without further driving it, i replaced the pump and now my coolant is overflowing...im so stumped.

maybe something to do with my new waterpump? i cant really test it to see if it works. you know by seeing if the top hose is hot or was it the bottom hose? because of this turbo everything under my hood is piping hot, so they both get hot from that. any other way to test a waterpump?


Modified by mike93eh at 4:48 AM 8/29/2005

mike93eh

i think i may try and see if there is any more air in the system just for the hell of it. even though i already did this.

i cant remember if i said this but my old radiator cap was broken. the part on the bottom was tottally broken off. i guess its down in the radiator. i thought for sure then a new cap would fix this problem, guess not.

another thing that has got me pissed off is that i have oil leaking from the "U" shaped part of the pan on the timing belt side. i put a brand new gasket on with plenty of honda bond in that area and torqued down to 9 ft lbs. and still leaks. im so frustrated. because these two problems make no sense. i always do **** right the first time.

moto1320

once the thermostat is open you can see if the waterpump is working by looking in the radiator. It will have fluid flowing or not. If the waterpump was bad then you would get very hot fast.

mike93eh

when i get done driving, my coolant resevoir is totally full obviously and once my engine cools down the radiator will suck it all back in. sucks it all back in till its bone dry. if i remember correctly when i had headlift problems it didnt suck it back in, it just stayed full.

and also my gauges stay normal while moving and when i stop they start to rise until i move again.

could it be from air trapped in my coolant?